Royal Enfield WD/CO transmission leak

Defiantly a Cougar, the mechanical type not the female one. It's a rare 69 convertible, one of only 3 in the UK. I've fitted a 6.8l motor a gearbox for a girlfriend of mine. I'll dig out a photo or two if you're interested.

Yes I was thinking 'Dukes of Hazard' But google tells me that their 'General Lee' was a 69 Charger. I'm always interested in what others are up to. Ron

You can find the bearing cheaper elsewhere. Just go on one of the Internet sites.

as had been said, it may be beneficial to overhaul the whole box. You can replace the bearing with out taking the box out but Sod's law would suggest that you find it needs a good clean at minimum.

Chris I've got a bearing place I use... They're about £6-7 depending on size etc. I'll pull that cover off and see if there's more trouble before I decided the route too take. But my gut feeling it to pull it and do a complete rebuild. A pisser as bought as ready to go and the oil wasn't coming out when I went to see it.

Also I've change the seal in the carb where the float bowl attached the the carb body and the bugger is still leaking 😡

Firstly check you have the correct union nut at the bottom of carb body. There are 2-3 different lengths to those. Just above this nut is a bleed hole in the carb body and no amount of new gaskets will stop it leaking if the float level is too high or the float needle is not sealing.

A good first indication is to remove the float bowl and clean/blow it out, reassemble it, turn it upside down and try and blow through the petrol inlet. You can also prove it by operating the tickler to allow you to breath past the needle valve. You can also refit the bowl without the cap and watch the level rise and shut the fuel off.

If your float and needle are in good condition, but fuel is still seeping from the bleed hole, them maybe the float level is too high. You can try adding an extra fibre washer between bowl and carb to drop the level a touch.

On the other hand, these pre monoblocks will sometimes weep with just the tap turned on and then settle down when the bike is running. Ron

Cheers you're a star. The fuels certainly coming from that area, the bleed hole is out of sight so I presumed it was coming from the thread just below it. I'll have a look at that and see if it's coming from there.

I was told that once warm it'd settle down but I'm sure the carb shouldn't leak but then I'm only used to modern bikes.

I'm itching to get this all sorted but I must finish other jobs first 🙄.

Check it's the correct carb too.

Yes indeed. The body I showed is CO and the carb should be a 276AC/1A (1A should be stamped separately on the float bowl)

Ron

I presume this is the correct 276?

It looks right but the number should be stamped on the top of the flange. Some Triumph SV's also used this 'long neck model' to clear the mag. Your float bowl is on the wrong side, which is not a serious problem for a 'zero' angled carb. Ron

Wrong side..!!! 😳... Another job to add to the growing list lol.. The joys of getting somebody else's work. I'll have to move the fuel lines when I do that too.

Fingers crossed I should have the cougar running and moved out of the workshop this weekend then I get crack on with my growing list.

Hitchcocks is a good firm and they are better than "Amal" to deal with for genuine Amal parts. You can also buy the correct fuel pipe from them #8 http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbooks/pages/261/Petrol_Tank_and_Front_Mudguard

Ron

I did notice that my fuel pipe is different to the ones in the picture you posted. Are my fuel taps incorrect too?

I'm not in a hurry to make it perfect just yet but it's nice to learn what's what. My first task is to make it work properly (no fuel leaks and fix the gearbox) and enjoy it for awhile.

I spoke to Dave 2 at Hitchcocks last week, a really helpful guy with some good advice. I think they'll be taking a few of my hard earned £'s .

I guess that's Dave Morse at Hitchcocks? He has a WD/CO too. He's been here to my place and mentioned coming again sometime.

Also and completely off topic, my wife keeps here boat round the corner from you at Chertsey Lock!

As far as I'm aware, every Royal Enfield WD model has those angled taps as fitted to mine. I see Hitchcocks list petrol taps but I don't know if they are correct NOS or repro or something else?

Here are some genuine NOS taps I have. Ron

NOS.... Nicey nicey they'd look perfect on my bike 😃...

Bit of a trek from Poole to Chertsey.

90 miles and we have all the boating facilities you could wish for here in Poole. But we've had a long association with the Thames. I got sidetracked into military vehicles 30 years ago though. Ron

Next time you're up this next of the woods drop me a line, and don't forget the NOS fuel taps

I have 7 WD Enfields in my collection and it's been a chore finding the taps. I only have 3 NOS left and I'll definitely keep 2 of them, so I might part with one and I think I have a S/H tap with a broken filter gauze. Ron

Sevens just greedy lol..

It'd be going to a good home ..

These are the taps that I received from Hitchcocks,very good company to deal with, must get mine on the roads this year.

Rick

Yes I agree, Hitchcocks are very good, and I guess those are the best they can supply these days. Here is the original type with the angled button. Ron

Ron is that the one with the broken gauze?

Hitchcock's are closer to the original than the ones currently on my bike.

No that is a perfect condition NOS tap (covered in Cosmoline) The gauze is a bit bent from storage, is all.

I agree about those taps from Hitchcocks and at £60 a pair with post and VAT....Not a bad price. Ron

These taps do pop up every so often. The post war versions are chromed but are the same. I have always found then to need new corks though.

Hitchcocks are good but on a few occasions I've found their parts incorrect and don't believe me when I've told them. I prime example being the rear stand Spring stud, completely wrong and wouldn't fit. They told me my frame and stand had been modified. Even when I sent a photo of 4 frames, stands and studs they insisted their example was correct. That annoyed me but over all they are very good. Burtons are also very good and often over looked for NOS parts.

Well following Chris's post, I've been looking at Burton Bike Bits web site and amazed to see that they list those correct taps (slightly soiled). From what I can see from their price list, they would be around £90 pr inc post and VAT.

http://www.burtonbikebits.net/Taps.htm

Ron