restoration Diamond T 980

[Adrian]

It is true that the smallest jobs can take the most time.

 

I've been trying to remove the tailgate. The split pins are out but no matter how much force is applied the hinge won't move.:argh: Heat and WD40 have been used with generosity. The corner of the gate needs straightening and to do a good job it really needs to come off. My local HGV shop can do the job but of course the T is not yet roadworthy.

 

The hinge bosses do not appear badly corroded, and the bar looks near as damn it straight.

 

I don’t want to cut the bar but it looks likely. Any ideas (apart from a bigger sledge)?

 

Part 3 of the blog coming soon.

 

A

[Adrian]

Part 3 – Progress all round.

 

Since the last submission progress can be described as slow and steady, primarily due to a chronic lack of space in my garage. However, the last week has seen some definite progress and from now on I hope to bring more frequent updates.

 

Firstly the delivery of the cab and scuttle to Jim and Martin at Allied Forces has generated a considerable amount of room, and with the bonnet and spare fuel tank being dispatched to Gary at Stroud Shotblasting Services I can at last move the recently blasted and primed components for the build up of layers. Back to Shotblasting, I can thoroughly recommend Gary, who does a damn good job for a fair price. He can be contacted on (01453) 767305.

 

 

 

 

 

Cab stripped and ready for loading.

 

Secondly I now have all the paint required to complete the restoration. More of this later.

 

To the recently blasted components, most have shown minimal corrosion and can be prepared for painting. The notable exception is the RH fuel tank. The picture below requires little explanation. This, you will recall was the tank which caused a substantial spill prior to the strip. Thankfully the spare tank looks better and there is the LH tank still fitted, therefore if at the moment one good tank is all that can be mustered then so be it. One will be sufficient for local rallies.

 

 

 

 

 

No comment!

 

The wheel arch is heavily pitted below the chequer plating but far from requiring replacement sections, as perforations are few and far between. The return lip at the front has caused the upper skin to perforate due to the obvious collection of dirt and moisture but again minimal rectification is required.

 

 

 

 

 

Wheel arch. Note the minimal corrosion for a panel which is 67 years old!

 

The running board has a small perforation under the battery location which will be plated.

 

Battery box, cover, and remaining components require no additional work other than painting.

 

Now, on the subject of paint I intend to reproduce the paint scheme to what I think it would have been upon delivery to the RASC in early ‘42. The specific colours will be BS61 light stone and dark olive drab (something similar to #9). The scheme has been based on period photographs and assistance from Michael Starmer.

 

• All exterior areas Light stone.

• Inside cab Olive drab.

• Under bonnet Olive drab.

• Chassis Light stone except hidden areas which will be olive drab.

• Battery box Olive drab.

• Underneath wheel arches Light stone.

• Rear differential White.

 

The paint inside the cab appears to be original, as it differs very much from any colour found outside, being substantially darker than that applied by the Italians at a later date. It had been suggested by Michael that the light stone would have been applied to all areas which could be exposed and thus visible to enemy aircraft, according to the general orders of the time. This was extended to the inside of the doors, but on my vehicle there is no trace inside the cab therefore olive drab will feature throughout the cab.

 

Close inspection has found traces of the original green and light stone, particularly within the welded seams of the ballast box. More interestingly is the clear traces of light stone under the bonnet. The outside has been shot blasted whereas the underside is still in original olive drab #9. The edges clearly show where the original light stone had run underneath when applied, obviously in a thick coat.

 

 

 

 

 

Underside of the bonnet prior to blasting. Close inspection will reveal traces of light sone at the edges.

 

The olive drab is from Allied Forces while the desert sand can be obtained from The Vintage Paint Company, who will match exactly to Michael Starmer’s swatch, or R&R Services, whose BS361 is almost identical, if a very slight shade darker. I have opted for the R&R product.

 

Most missing components have now been sourced including original pedals, viscometer gauge, gear knobs, and various engine spares, while original NOS light switches, mirrors, and water pump repair kits were obtained at the recent Malvern show.

 

 

 

 

 

Front winch rope roller journal and boss. All mounting bolts sheared off with ease during removal. Time to get the drill and easy-out set i think...

 

I must at this point thank those who have helped me progress this far. The removal of the cab and its transportation to Allied Forces was a totally manual operation, and without the assistance of Ed Newman, Hazel Pennack, and Mike Payne it would simply have not been possible. They have helped on many occasions over the past months, particularly with the heavy items. Thanks also to Alan Jones and Peter Hainsworth who assisted in the removal of the cab. Those who have removed a closed cab will understand that even though they are small they are far from light, and without the generosity and enthusiasm of friends this and other major jobs would have been much more difficult. Many thanks also to my father Brian, whose experience with Diamond T’s, together with numerous anecdotes has been a continuous source of help and inspiration.

Edited November 20, 2008 by Adrian

[Adrian]

Ok here’s one for you! Can anyone identify these headlamps? I think they were Italian fitted as they are larger than Butlers, with what appears to be a totally flat lens. The bowls and surrounds are repairable but the lamp units are scrap.

 

I cannot find an ID on them – can anyone help to identify them and does anyone know if replacement units can be sourced?

 

I am looking at some new aftermarket lamps from VWP, which are outwardly similar to the original design and also generate sufficient light from the H4 bulbs, but it would be nice to restore the current ones if possible.

 

Dimensions are 8 ½” overall dia, with the visible glass area being 7 ¼” dia. The bezels are chromed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers,

A

[Stormin]

.Most missing components have now been sourced including original pedals, viscometer gauge, gear knobs, and various engine spares, while original NOS light switches, mirrors, and water pump repair kits were obtained at the recent Malvern show.

 

Adrian,

 

I don't suppose you have the name you bought the gear knobs and light switches from?

[Adrian]

Adrian,

 

I don't suppose you have the name you bought the gear knobs and light switches from?

 

Hi Norman, the gear knobs are from Graham Booth (contractorman). I don't know if he has any more but from what he said he has a fairly substantial T inventory.

 

The main light switch was bought from Rex Ward and was early 'fifties NOS. It was still wrapped in grease paper and I caused a bit of a stir by unwrapping it at Malvern! He may well have more - give him a call.

 

The panel light switch came from Armycars 4U at Beltring.

 

Cheers

A

[Adrian]

Part 4 – Cab restoration (1)

 

Since the last blog the cab has progressed well. I am of course fortunate that being an ex-Italian vehicle is has escaped the rust which can be so prevalent with British based T’s, but during the work corrosion has been found on panels which were thought to be sound. My approach to the cab is one of replacement where necessary but still with the aim of retaining as much originality as possible. As previously described the work is being entrusted to the guys at Allied Forces, and they are doing a fine job. I believe they are using the cab as a source of patterns for future Diamond T restorations, as the rusty sections are strong enough to be removed in once piece. For those of you who know T’s, good replacement cabs are practically impossible to find so the only option is to restore the one you have, and it doesn’t half help if you have patterns to work off.

 

It is so true that until you strip structures you do not know the full extent of corrosion. It is not the rust you can see which is the threat but the rust you cannot see. The thick layer of high build primer used by the Italian army did a very good job of hiding corrosion, in particular at the lower corners, where the B-post meets the floor, and around the grab handles half way up the B-post.

 

The rotten sections on the near side have been tackled first as these appear to be the worst, followed by the rear panel.

 

The work is best described with the photographs below, which come courtesy of Jim Clark.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some pictures of the cab prior to work. Note the corrosion to the lower edge of the rear section. From inside the cab this is not visible due to it being obscured by the rear cross member. Despite a good half inch gap between the crossmember and the rear panel moisture has collected due to years of compacted dirt. The shot of the underside with the seat bases removed, shows that despite a substantial layer of corrosion the structure still appears to be solid.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Repair sections for the NS rear corner, and below the corner sections fitted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The old floor section used as a pattern and the replacements in 14 gauge. The outer reinforcing finisher will be fitted once the remaining work has been completed and the doors are hung, to ensure the finisher follows the door line.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here the new A-post sections and floor are lined up and fitted. The A-posts do not require total replacement, just the lower sections. Although showing signs of pitting the reminder of the posts are surprisingly robust. The captive nuts in the posts have been replaced.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cab rear panel. Original and new central sections. The transverse bracing provides a convenient location to join the original structure.

 

 

Now the cold snap is behind us (for the time being) work at home is concentrating on completion of the running board, fuel tank cover, wheel arch, battery box, and front bumper, all of which are ready for the top coat of BS.61 light stone. I have been holding off here as after all the preparation I felt it too cold to risk a top coat. Unfortunately my garage is very difficult to heat and therefore safer to await warmer weather.

 

The bonnet has returned from the shotblaster and it appears to have survived very well, with no serious corrosion around the join or the piano hinge. I was a little sad to get the underside blasted as there were traces of original light stone on the edges but I took the decision to completely repaint in order to preserve it in the long run. I will discuss the bonnet, and include pictures in a later blog.

 

Adrian

[42 chevy]

Adrian;

I learn something new everyday on this forum. By looking at your pictures I see there is a differance in the cab design of the 980 versus the 969A. The floor design is differant. When I get to point of working on my cab, I will post a picture of the bottom side of my cab so you can see. I am experiencing the same rust issues you are dealing with,

 

John

[Stormin]

Those are tidy looking repair pieces. You've definately got someone who knows what they're doing with those. Worth while getting the professionals in sometimes if you want to do justice to a restoration.

[Adrian]

Adrian;

I learn something new everyday on this forum. By looking at your pictures I see there is a differance in the cab design of the 980 versus the 969A. The floor design is differant. When I get to point of working on my cab, I will post a picture of the bottom side of my cab so you can see. I am experiencing the same rust issues you are dealing with,

 

John

 

Hi John, yes these cabs do go in the same places. Before I bought mine I saw so many and those with rusty cabs all had rot in the same areas, floors, particularly on the reinforcing strip and where it meets the A-post (easily identifiable as the floor drops away at the front) and in the double skinned sections. The back of the roof is not immune either.

 

There were some slight changes to these cabs throughout the production run. I would be very interested to see how yours differs.

 

Cheers

 

A

[Adrian]

Those are tidy looking repair pieces. You've definately got someone who knows what they're doing with those. Worth while getting the professionals in sometimes if you want to do justice to a restoration.

 

At the end of the day I want this restoration to be the only one I undertake on the cab. AF can do a much better job than me so it's worth it.

 

As they are 'tooling up' for similar restorations in the future they are spending time ensuring the reproduction sections are accurate.

 

Cheers,

 

A

[42 chevy]

Adrian;

I have posted pictures of my cab. I think some of my confusion came from the fact that I had not realized that you had removed your seat bases. My are still attached, so you could advise f they cab interior is the same. You will see the usual rot at the bottom of teh A pillares and the lower rear section of teh cab.

 

John

[Adrian]

Thanks John,

 

The floors sections and seat base structure look the same as mine. Apart from the bottom inch or two your A posts look fairly solid. Do you intend replacing the entire post or just incorporate repair sections?

[42 chevy]

Adrian;

 

I just will put in repair sections.

[Adrian]

Can anyone please confirm what colour the Hercules engines were dispatched in?

 

Cheers,

 

A

[42 chevy]

Adrian;

my was an industrial grey color.

 

John

[Adrian]

Adrian;

my was an industrial grey color.

 

John

 

 

Thanks John,

 

Could you post a picture?

 

Cheers,

 

A

[42 chevy]

Adrian;

look at my restoration blog, there are several pictures. I will lok up the paint color number I used, I know it was KRYLON brand universal industrial grey. If you need furthre pictures let me know.

 

John

[Adrian]

Adrian;

look at my restoration blog, there are several pictures. I will lok up the paint color number I used, I know it was KRYLON brand universal industrial grey. If you need furthre pictures let me know.

 

John

 

Thanks John, sorry, not fully awake today!:???

[Adrian]

Part 5

 

Apologies for the recent lack of updates. Juggling work and the restoration has meant the narrative has had to wait. Progress has slowed a little as funds have become tight but progress is still being made. So here goes.

 

Winch

 

Work has progressed on the chassis, with the winch being lifted off for blasting and painting. The retaining bolts were extremely problematic and required prolonged heating to get them loose. I did learn a lesson from this exercise which was my ½” breaker bar is just not sufficient for the Diamond T, so an upgrade is on the way. Many thanks to the Farmer Jim Puddephat for lifting it off, aren’t tractors damn useful!

 

 

 

 

Winch just after blasting

 

 

Chassis

 

With the improved access it was decided to get the entire chassis steam cleaned. I had put this off until now to concentrate on the items which have been removed. However, presented with a largely unobstructed drive train the opportunity had arrived to remove forty years of residue. Thankfully very little oil was present but road film was a plenty. To allow the steamer to get down to the paintwork (and hopefully remove it where loose) I spent four days scraping and brushing. This not only succeeded in making the final job more effective, but removing the upper layers substantially reduced the mess created. With the film removed more evidence of North Africa was uncovered as desert sand can be traced back to the forward differential.

 

I have spent many hours flatting the chassis back to the orange primer. This has keyed well to the chassis, in sharp contrast to the green which is flaking badly but at least it is easy to remove. Those of you with long memories will recall the original plan of shot blasting the chassis when the vehicle was once again mobile but on reflection this is not such a good plan, especially as it is taking less time to flat the chassis than originally envisaged, so the chassis will be painted in situ. I have booked some long awaited time off work next month, so if the weather is kind you might see a quantum leap in progress.

 

Gauges

 

Replacement gauges have been sourced and are now painted ready for installation. Most are original units, the exceptions being the fuel pressure gauge, obtained as NOS from R&R, a NOS water temperature gauge (I had a replacement but it did not have the full scale in common with the originals) and the Viscosmeter, supplied courtesy of Contractorman. I must confess I do enjoy these ‘detail’ jobs, and it was most satisfying to get a good finish on the bezels.

 

 

 

 

 

Gauges prepared

 

 

 

 

Gauges primed. The Water temp gauge was new so I just keyed the exsisting paintwork.

 

 

 

 

Gauges completed

 

Winch control levers

 

Stripped, prepared and painted. Another satisfying result.

 

 

 

 

Lever assembly ready for installation

 

 

Cab

 

The majority of the welding has been completed. The exception being the door skins and the finishing strips along the base of the doorframe. These will not be fitted until the doors are correctly hung, to ensure the line of the door follows the cab.

 

The following pictures show the recent work to the cab and scuttle.

 

 

 

 

Corrosion to the overlap at the rear was worse than originally thought, a result of multiple layer of paint hinding the nasties.

 

 

 

 

New section being tacked into place

 

 

 

 

The outer skin at the grab handle after cutting out the rot. Again, removal of the paint revealed little strength in the metal. Notice the inner skin is starting to seriously corrode.

 

 

 

 

Problems around the screen surround

 

 

 

 

Replacement sections for the scuttle upper outer edge

 

 

 

 

Repaired scuttle face

 

 

 

 

Coroded section removed

 

 

 

 

Scuttle post blasting

 

 

 

 

Rear of scuttle after blasting. Just prior to priming

 

 

Offside panels

 

Finally, and after all it has only taken five months, the battery box, running board, fuel tank cover and associated panels are in the light stone. It was good to see large sections in the final colour. I had made numerous swatches but the true effect is only seen when large areas are painted and dragged into the daylight.

 

Trying to replicate the paint scheme in the desert, the inside of the battery box is green, as is the underside of the running board. Whether green or light stone, I have applied zinc phosphate grey primer over the red (also zinc phosphate and applied by the local blaster) with two coats of the final colour. I know the grey was not strictly required but I was concerned that the red would bleed through the light stone.

 

The green was mixed with 10% thinners and in cold conditions the gun pot was warmed slightly to help the paint flow, however the light stone requires a minimum of 15% or it spatters. The suppliers did stipulate 20% but a little experimentation showed this could be reduced.

 

On the subject of spraying I am using an Earlex HVLP system. Even for someone like me who’s past examples of spraying have been between mediocre and god damn awful it does provide a good quality finish, and the adjustment allows for fine detail work (the gauges being a good example) or large areas, and this was using the 1.5mm needle. For extra fine work a 1mm needle is available, and if you wish to dump a load of paint on the side of your house a 2mm needle should do the trick. The system is pressurised only a fraction over atmospheric and comes with its own integral air turbine so you don’t need a compressor.

 

On reflection I am very happy with the finish although I did manage to overdo it with the second coat on the running board. However this will be covered by the fuel tank. Careful examination has also revealed a very small run on the fuel tank protector plate but I guess when these were painted in the desert they were far from perfect!

 

Fuel tank has had one coat, and the second will hopefully be done this weekend, upon which rubber strips will be applied to the underside in place of the original fabric items and the assembly is complete.

 

 

 

 

Earlex HVLP spray station

 

 

 

 

Inner wing just after second coat of light stone. No it's not gloss, it was still very wet!

 

 

 

 

Tank protector

 

 

 

 

Collection of freshly painted panels. Now off for a beer!

 

Thanks for visiting the page. Next post will appear soon.

 

Cheers,

 

A

[contractorman]

Excellent progress mate ..cant wait to see the old girl when shes done

[Joris]

Brilliant!

[FV1604A]

Well Done Adrian for choosing THE most beautiful of military vehicles to restore.

Always been fascinated by the T's, since watching them as a kid, moving around the TA yard in Shipcote, Gateshead.

An article of mine is being run soon in one of the trucking magazines on Bekes salvage yard in Paris, which is closing within six months. All vehicles and spares must go by 2010.

When we were there, there were racks of parts, some labelled up for the Diamond T 980/981, they seemed to have lots of half shafts.

There were three 968/969 in the hedges, but as you say in your text, the cabs are different.

Certainly, if you are looking for any more parts or future spares, it is worth sending an e-mail to Gerard Beke in English to ask what he has left for the 980/981.

They are nice people to do business with, we had a great afternoon with them, they are almost as interested in the vehicles as we are. Some of the stuff that has gone through that yard is really special, oh, for a Tardis! Numbers,contacts are on Milweb Spares for sale section. Best wishes,Mike.

[Adrian]

Thanks Mike, I have already provided them with a shopping list and as you say they are very nice people and are very efficient at replying. It is a pity they will be closing soon.

 

Cheers,

 

A

[HWade]

Hello Adrian

 

What a great truck to be restoring, your making a cracking job of it, cant wait to see the finished article.

 

Howard.

[Swill1952xs]

With regard to the roof repairs; I have to put a new edge on my Albion roof, the same as you are doing. I bought a tool called a "Rolastep" which when used on the edge of a repair section; creates a 17mm stepped flange on the edge of the repair panel. This enables the repair to be overlapped and give a fairly flush repair that can be spot or plug welded to the back of the panel.

I haven't used it yet, but it should also overcome the tendency for the panel to distort when it's welded, which is always a problem with repairing large panels.

 

http://auto.frost.co.uk/search?p=R&srid=S8%2d3&lbc=frost&w=Rolastep&url=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2efrost%2eco%2euk%2fitem%5fDetail%2easp%3fproductID%3d8462%26frostProductName%3d12mm%2bRolastep%2bEdge%2bJoggler%26catID%3d13%26subCatID%3d18%26FrostCat%3dBodywork%26FrostSubcat%3dForming&rk=1&uid=143594850&sid=8&ts=v2&rsc=2Dpuy-m7ud0lYA4V&method=and&isort=score&view=grid

 

The one shown is a 12mm version, but they also do a 17mm which is identical, but has wider rollers.

 

Jus' tryin' ta be helpful.