Lwt Landrover tappets

[LarryH57]

Evening guys, 

My Lwt is running a bit rough, and its not the carb or loose leads, so may be the tappets, which I intend to do with a mate in about a week. Any advice on doing the job?

I guess  need a new gasket for the rocker cover. I need to order one . Are they all the same for a standard 2.25L Series 3 engine, built in 1980?

[ruxy]

Gaskets are just common 2.1/4  (2286cc)   new ones now seem self adhesive on one side with peel-off strip.  IIRC the ones I get from a local factor are British Gasket who do good stuff.

Rocker/valve stem clearance , excess due to face wear on rockers is the Archilles heel.  I tend to do a precise check with a DTI  (dial test indicator) if indentation not too bad - compensate using DTI & feelers.  ABRO engine recon. the rocker faces are often re-faced - not a good idea because I think they are induction hardened (look hard & you can often see evidence if the surface 'flame' hardening / oil quench.  A common Classic tool for this wear problem is to use a  SPQR tool for adjustment.  Some say - viscosity for barrier - use  20W/50  , however the last few years of S3 production a  15W/40 or semi version was cleared & quoted in civvy User Handbook  (MOD instructions lagged) & then the Defender 2.5na came along with its own particular engine oil problems.  Good unworn engine - I use  15W/40 semi  arguably it may not provide the same cushion , however a semi has far better anti-scuff & anti wear properties.

[ruxy]

btw  - you may be due to check the valve guides , especially exhaust that wear oval sooner - that's the full cylinder head off job but best preventative maintenance.

[LarryH57]

My session with my mate to do the tappets, has been delayed due to unforeseen circumstances. In the interim I think the exhaust may be blowing so I need to find where that is and if it causes the 'spitting'.

Also, another thought; how long does E5 petrol last as mine is very 'last year'. In the years I have had it, the Lwt has not been too fussy over fuel but in 2022 I had to rebuild the carb as the carb gasket was in bits, and hard to blame onanything specific but it's worked well afterwards. So is it worth draining the tanks  of what's left and adding fresh?

Is E5 actually quite bad for MVs as has been suggested?

Edited February 16, 2023 by LarryH57

[ruxy]

E5   I don't think too bad , E10 - the reports coming in are contradictory  IMHO.  The good thing about such as a Lightweight / Rover with military underseat tanks is that it's easy to peer in and see what is happening and take out a sample.  Even with leaded / unleaded you could expect to beads of water rolling around in the bottom, if it is discoloured / cloudy then with such a tank it can be easily drained with the brass plug that does not rust underneath.

I have recently been weighing in a few scrap cars , tared off =  £ 180 / ton  BUT any tyres left - they remove £3 per rim.  I think the price of cars/mixed scrap must be at very highest  ?

I have a Mk. 1 Fiat UNO  that is being difficult to extract and it has been laid up exactly 20 years.   So - the last two afternoons I have spent 2 hours cutting it up / unbolting bits like doors.   I am about to cut through both driveshafts to get the engine/gearbox out (I will then split to get in wheelbarrow).  So yesterday while axing the front out , I answered my own query - did I leave petrol in the tank  ?      So - I put the axe through a fuel line to the carburettor , I splashed my face with petrol , it smelt high in light ends and where it hit my face it certainly burnt  - so light-ends are still spirit  !

It seemed quite clear -what I collected on a jam jar.    Steel tonnage is down as floor & sills quite corroded , at least that should make it easier to reduce.  Engine out - son 2 & I will roll the shell over and I will fully drain the tank - what I collect will be mixed with 2-stroke oil and be consumed by my oldest  Victa mower.  Of course this will be real Petrol (thank you Carless Capel & Leonard for that word)  - I have my doubt on the ability to power the Victa with E5/E10  ??

 

[john1950]

There have been reports lately of modern cars breaking down using e10.

[ruxy]

58 minutes ago, john1950 said:

There have been reports lately of modern cars breaking down using e10.

You can go online and enter your Reg. No.  & it states if OK to use E10 , possibly car manufacturers have not done adequate research  ?   I suppose any claim is not financially viable by a individual  in County Court.  The opposition would just have excuses if not services by a franchised dealership - like you drove it too fast.

[LarryH57]

My Lwt Landrover from 1980 is definitely in the market for E5 as the best alternative to unleaded or fully leaded as intended in 1980's. 

The 21st century sucks as far as I am concerned for older combustion engines owners. Will the MV hobby exist in a few more decades?

Edited February 16, 2023 by LarryH57

[john1950]

There are still steam engines running today from the 18 hundreds. So I see no reason why not.

[ruxy]

Well - I have no intention of a battery electric conversion in a LWT ,  Propane still has possibilities  but seems to have died a death  (the idiots wanted a Gas Safe registration),  Land Rover did a good 2.1/4 (2286cc) petrol conversion for Kalmar/Climax fork lift trucks - way back in early 1980's.  I had a Landi Hartog conversion rigged up in the 1970's  IIRC that originated from a Coventy Climax or Hyster FLT.  I never got around to telling my Insurance Company (actually - I was employed by the same firm) that t was just a Super Ser type cylinder clamped in the tub with a ratchet strap.    More advanced systems of  Liquid hydrogen is a possibility when Tesco etc. give up petrol sales  ?

[LarryH57]

So Ruxy and co, back to the problem. Would a hole in the exhaust pipe cause spitting and a feeling of hestitation in the engine?

And how long does E5  stay fresh?

[john1950]

A hole in the exhaust does not help, Spitting, start with timing and distributor/coil, then carb, and manifold. Then valves. E5 is good for a year but it pays to drain off the moisture before starting after a lay off.

[ruxy]

12 hours ago, LarryH57 said:

So Ruxy and co, back to the problem. Would a hole in the exhaust pipe cause spitting and a feeling of hestitation in the engine?

And how long does E5  stay fresh?

As said - do the service checks , always change the condenser with the contact-set.   A small hole in exhaust could give popping on the overrun , but other things can also do this, sometimes a slight enrichment at idle(volume screw) can clear. If it has stood a while I find the carburettor top gasket dries out and cream crackers into bits 6mmx6mm - some of the aftermarket gaskets are better than a genuine Land Rover item. Worn / stretched timing chains and exhaust valve guides worn/oval are the archilles heel.   Spitting - sounds fueling problem ,  hesitation - more ignition . HT wires don't last for ever (don't use cheap £ ones).   Ignition - I use a set (4) Laser spark plug testers , use twilight not bright sun - often you can see bad HT to a plug(s). Don';t do too much at once - it's a process of elimination.   E5/E10  -  I always add Wynns  - there is a new E10 Protector that I intend using , just I have rater a large bulk box of earlier product(for E5)  to consume first, supposedly stops valve seat recession and also a fuel stabilizer (so any lay-up) - I double dose a low tank and make certain a short run gets it all through the carb.

[LarryH57]

Just a thought before I start to look at the Lwt in March. I have been using the easy start type fuel in the Carb, just a few squirts, as i have found it fired up faster and better on the battery, than cranking the engine over for longer especially in winter. An AA man once said that this may have detrimental effect, but my mate (also ex AA) said this was a issue with diesel engines and not a petrol engines?

[john1950]

To much ether = alcoholic. To much use dries bores/ liners of oil film, causing ring and surface damage in the longer term.

Edited February 25, 2023 by john1950

[ruxy]

Thats why  'some'  (living in warm climates where choke is strictly not required) , still use choke as the wet petrol on bores gives initial lubrication until the oil takes over.

[ruxy]

With a Rover that will not start , one of the best methods to lell if fueling or ignition - pour a little neat petrol directly down the  36IV throat - if the plugs / HT are OK - it should fire, if it fires immediately but does not run with various positions of choke - then it probably lack of petrol / air mix for whatever reason.