Vulture Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Guys The Grey Lady was due an oil change so I decided to kill two birds with one stone. Whilst she was empty of oil I dropped the lower oil pan to inspect for sludge. I was pleasantly surprised to find hardly any at all, so having thoroughly cleaned round and also repainted the outside of the sump I re-fitted it tonight. Currently all the attachment nuts are back in place and finger tight. The thought occurs and this is the reason for the posting, would it be prudent to back each nut off slightly and add a small dab of gasket seal, before tightening up? Currently it is the brass washers around the nuts that are sealing the nuts (which extend up into the sump). I have a worry bead that when I tighten everything up, fill with oil, I'll then find I have multiple oil drips (especially when the oil is hot). That said I didn't have any significant drips before, so am I worrying unnecessarily? :undecided: Your wise counsel in this matter would be appreciated. Kind regards to all Vulture (aka Ian) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Always best to use a new cork seal. You could find a leak occurring anywhere on the face of the cork seal, not just around the holes. Having said that, then if - and only if- you are happy that the old seal is well attached to the upper part of the sump pan, then I would be inclined to take the lower pan off and smear a fine coat of sealant over the whole face of the cork. The seal between cork and lower pan has been disturbed and you cannot be sure it will re-seal effectively as the cork has been squashed and gone hard. If you hadn't asked the question you'd not have had any trouble - but having brought it up you just know what will happen!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 It never hurts to add a sealant, but I'd use a modern high-temp silicone gasket goo over the whole sealing face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Starfire and NOS I'm using a brand new Cork seal, which is a good fit, and I've made sure both the surfaces are totally clean that it will be mating with. Two questions here (just be totally clear in my own mind): 1. With regard the nuts, would you put sealant round those ? 2. Are you suggesting I put sealant onto both sides of the new cork seal as well ? Kind regards Vulture (aka Ian) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 (edited) Right I see where you are coming from now, Vulture. The nuts setscrews do indeed thread through the flange of the upper sump, and yes I would do just as you suggest, to make sure the thread does not let any oil past. The last one I did had a faint smearing of blue Hylomar gasket goo on both faces 'just to be sure', but it is by no means essential. On applications like the upper pan to sump joint, this is a good way of holding the gasket in place on an item that is very difficult to get into position without the gasket sliding out of line. Edited August 5, 2015 by N.O.S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfire Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 The down side of a sealant on a cork gasket is that you will absolutely tear it up when removing it again, which will require that the surfaces are cleaned and a new gasket installed next time. Some advocate coating only one side for this reason and some advocate no sealant. As designed, a cork gasket should seal with no assistance, as long as both surfaces are flat and clean and the bolts are appropriately torqued. At the end of the day, it's your call. Personally, I silicone the crap out of them Cheers, Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatchFuzee Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 If you use blue Hylomar gasket goo as in N.O.S.'s post you shouldn't destroy the gasket when the sump is removed next time because the sealant is non-setting. Hylomar Universal Blue sealant information:- http://www.hylomarsealant.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Ended up using a silicone sealant on both faces and smeared around the nut heads. Hopefully it will do the trick. Thus far everything is fine, no leaks MatchFuzee, I didn't have any blue Hylomar gasket to hand, but I'm going to lay some in. Sounds like a good product. Kind regards to all Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Cork alone is good enough. Whats more important is that you leveled the pan's flange and flattened around the bolt holes where most of the deformation takes place (and leaks). Also don't over tighten the bolts... you don't want to crush the cork or bend the flange. Gasket goo is rarely needed on an oil pan unless it's to cover up a bent pan flange or some other defect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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