.303fan Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 After the retro fit unit on the 5 bearing 2.25 petrol we went to a 3 bearing 2.25 from 1966 that had a oil cooler, i had a issue with two pin prick oil leaks that sprayed the engine bay in oil after fixing the pipe we had a test drive and the other line broke ... As a roadside repair i removed the bit that the line bolts too, now i want to know, where can i get replacement original pipes or where to have them made? cheers Arjan ( who is happy it happened now instead of half way to Kent) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lozzaboy Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 I was just looking up oil cooler pipes the other night for my 1961 FFR, Craddocks have them listed and I think Dunsfold and Blanchards do too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.303fan Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 I will see if i can get 3 sets shipped Craddocks won't get a order from me ( long story) i will go ask dunsfold first as they go to the war and peace show cheers and thanks Arjan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 After the retro fit unit on the 5 bearing 2.25 petrol we went to a 3 bearing 2.25 from 1966 that had a oil cooler,i had a issue with two pin prick oil leaks that sprayed the engine bay in oil after fixing the pipe we had a test drive and the other line broke ... As a roadside repair i removed the bit that the line bolts too, now i want to know, where can i get replacement original pipes or where to have them made? cheers Arjan ( who is happy it happened now instead of half way to Kent) --------------------- A 5mb was not normally fitted with a cooler , in any case - you need to make a simple modification at the sump oil-pump. Then there is the early plumbing , relief valve at the UK passenger side (top of cooler) and later plumbing with R.V. at drivers side (bottom of cooler) AND the R.V.'s are different. If stuck , then the pipe is Bundy as are fittings , keep tubing nuts & stepped olives should be saved as they may be difficult, they can be silver-soldered on. There are readily turned up in any case. I would question why you are fitting a cooler ?? , sometimes I fit a dummy cooler because they look good behind a late L'wt grille mesh , other than that I fit a Enots isolation valve that were fitted on some 101". Only open up heavy towing in summer LoL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.303fan Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 The pumps need a boost, i bought the set complete set, i replaced the sump, pump and the front cross member was ready for a cooler. We use the trucks with a lot of stationairy running, so it is for cooling the temp of the engine. The 88s3 is going to used as work vehicle, loads of short runs like 60 yards to deliver and retrieve catalogs the 88LW is going to be a tow truck, 2,25 petrol driven. The regular oil pump or the higher pressure ones can be identified by the bolt, if the bolt is flat at the sides, like a regular bolt head is, it is low pressure, if there is a pressed in bit on all six corners of the bolt it is the high pressure pump. the low pressure pump is not suited for the oil cooler. as for the 5 main bearing, it was sceduled for maintenance and before the date of removal the engine threw a conrod, thats why i put in the 3 bearing as war and peace is round the corner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 OK for extreme stationary running (long periods) , otherwise overcooling in most cases. Stationary ,water is top end cooling / oil is bottom end cooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.303fan Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 Thats why the dutch used oil thermostates, might go with those. Just circulation till it is needed, the 88lw uses a 200tdi radiator from the time a 2.5td was fitted. right now, big yellow taxi time as the fan belt snapped after alternator failure ... The rear ally body broke off and there is a coolant leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruxy Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 (edited) Not just a matter of oil pressures & temperature (oil + ambient). The quality of oil , probably the MOD were a bit late on changing supply contracts LoL Until the end of the 1970's LR were still advising 20W/50 (a engine / transaxle lubricant compromise) for down to -10C Abt. 1980 / 1980 LR revised their recommendations due to oil improvements & A.P.I. service ratings. The good OLD 20W/50 was only then good for down to 0 degree C . Down to -20C (where you need to aim for England / Scottish winters) was down as far as a 10W , but in reality most would be going to a 15W/40. The 2.1/4 Archillees heel being the valve rocker surface , with a £rap oil , "some" believed the only protection here was still a 20W/50 (probably they should have used a top brand 15W/40) . However by the start of 1980's Solihull had the so called "fully metricated" and had started on the 5mb Falcon project - where piston sets were no longer "selective assembly". There were changes to pistons & ring sets + bores & finishing , This tightening up for the newer thinner oils , happended on both the old plant & new engine plant engines. In fact - there was the odd difference on the military spec. 5mb block , IIRC they were sleeved where as such a civvy pre-fix 361 5mb was not Edited July 6, 2014 by ruxy spelin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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