paul_bish Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 We have just started a Monty's men trip to Normandy and one of the transport a Ford Wot6 and we have some issues either a fuel issue or a condenser issue. It's had new plugs, new coil, new condenser, rebuilt distributor, leads and brand new stromberg 97 carb and electric fuel pump Symptoms are losing power, that got progressively worse as we went. Changing down to keep going and then just died. Once stopped we just couldn't get moving at all but engine Rickover, once you touch the accelorator it dies So we need a new condenser in Normandy or some suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 We have just started a Monty's men trip to Normandy and one of the transport a Ford Wot6 and we have some issues either a fuel issue or a condenser issue. It's had new plugs, new coil, new condenser, rebuilt distributor, leads and brand new stromberg 97 carb and electric fuel pump Symptoms are losing power, that got progressively worse as we went. Changing down to keep going and then just died. Once stopped we just couldn't get moving at all but engine Rickover, once you touch the accelorator it dies So we need a new condenser in Normandy or some suggestions? You can use any condenser in an emergency and I recall the coil is in passenger side of cab on a WOT6. By rights the condenser should be close to the distributor, but we know how awkward that is. You could fit a condenser to side of coil, making sure it is earthed, and if it has a wire connection, attach it to the CB or Neg terminal of the coil. You will need to remove or disconnect the current condenser. All this is a temporary fix if you do not have the correct part. If condenser is at fault, the points may be burnt or pitted. regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_bish Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share Posted June 25, 2014 Cheers Richard, sounds like a good starting point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woa2 Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I have had similar faults with my WOT2 and WOA2. Both times it was a faulty coil. Is the coil you used a new or new-old-stock item? Try a Lucas DLB100 coil, I use these on my vehicles and haven't had a problem since. Also, are you using an original condenser or a new one? I strongly suggest using a Lucas DCB121C condenser and not an original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Or get an electronic ignition? Worth the money for reliability, especially on a long trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_bish Posted July 2, 2014 Author Share Posted July 2, 2014 I have had similar faults with my WOT2 and WOA2. Both times it was a faulty coil. Is the coil you used a new or new-old-stock item? Try a Lucas DLB100 coil, I use these on my vehicles and haven't had a problem since. Also, are you using an original condenser or a new one? I strongly suggest using a Lucas DCB121C condenser and not an original. Cheers for this, will pass onto Dom Legg who owns the truck. We tried a lot by the roadside as we went in rain and sun, changed a condensor but the same problems. Its now back in the UK and the real work will start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 If you are going to W&P bring any suspect components with you & I can test them ie capacitor, rotor arm, distributor, coil, leads & sparking plugs. These are not simplistic tests with a multimeter that can be misleading or pointless. The capacitor needs to be tested at its working voltage 300-500v & the HT components I can test at 5Kv. I have built a coil tester which can run the coil & you can see the HT produced. It is true that most automotive capacitors are 0.2 mfd & will do a satisfactory job. It must be a distributor capacitor as it is rated at 500v. Using say a suppressor capacitor will cause failure as it will be rated only just above the vehicle voltage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woa2 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 If you are going to W&P bring any suspect components with you & I can test them ie capacitor, rotor arm, distributor, coil, leads & sparking plugs. These are not simplistic tests with a multimeter that can be misleading or pointless. The capacitor needs to be tested at its working voltage 300-500v & the HT components I can test at 5Kv. I have built a coil tester which can run the coil & you can see the HT produced. It is true that most automotive capacitors are 0.2 mfd & will do a satisfactory job. It must be a distributor capacitor as it is rated at 500v. Using say a suppressor capacitor will cause failure as it will be rated only just above the vehicle voltage. From experience, Clive knows what he is talking about and his knowledge is extensive. I strongly advise taking your electrical components to him for checking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_bish Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 (edited) If you are going to W&P bring any suspect components with you & I can test them ie capacitor, rotor arm, distributor, coil, leads & sparking plugs. These are not simplistic tests with a multimeter that can be misleading or pointless. The capacitor needs to be tested at its working voltage 300-500v & the HT components I can test at 5Kv. I have built a coil tester which can run the coil & you can see the HT produced. It is true that most automotive capacitors are 0.2 mfd & will do a satisfactory job. It must be a distributor capacitor as it is rated at 500v. Using say a suppressor capacitor will cause failure as it will be rated only just above the vehicle voltage. Cheers Clive, the truck isn't going to War & Peace I am afraid but this would have been most helpful. I will see if Dom can strip them off before I leave for the show as I will be there from Friday 11th Edited July 3, 2014 by paul_bish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Paul I can test those items individually and without the vehicle if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordf30 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Hi Paul, I had a similar problem with my Canadian F30 with british engine, It took 6 months but eventually traced to a duff batch of NOS rotor arms. Try the Distributor Dr on line, v helpful and not expensive. Cheers, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_bish Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share Posted July 3, 2014 Hi Paul, I had a similar problem with my Canadian F30 with british engine, It took 6 months but eventually traced to a duff batch of NOS rotor arms. Try the Distributor Dr on line, v helpful and not expensive. Cheers, Andy Cheers Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fv1609 Posted July 3, 2014 Share Posted July 3, 2014 Older types of rotor seem keen to absorb moisture although they might appear dry. I have noticed how the insulation resistance improves after leaving them out in the sun for an hour or so. May not be significant on a good one but those with stress lines that have not produced a discernible crack it may be significant. I can test rotor arms as long as they are mounted on the distributor shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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