Jump to content

Pinzgauer Engine Tightening torques


Zero-Five-Two

Recommended Posts

Hopefully some genius can help me with this one. Bit of a long shot but here goes. I have been tasked with the engine rebuild of an elderly bus circa 1985. It uses the Audi D24T 6 cylinder diesel lump which I am told as well as being fitted to the VW Transporter, was also fitted to various models of the Pinzgauer.

 

I have been unable to find any tightening torque info for things like cylinder head bolts, big ends etc from the bus world, various audi forums and even my local VW dealer, although they did offer to do the job for me, for a small fee (LOL!)

 

Any Pinzgauer owners out there with a workshop manual? info would be gratefully received, thanks folks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

 

I am also after a D24T workshop manual for the engine that has been transplanted into my new SUMB - it will be in the Volvo manual set for the 760 Turbo Diesel which also used these engines, if anyone has access to the Volvo CD-ROM manuals.

 

There are several sources for PDF scans of the printed manual of the earlier normally aspirated D24 in Volvo 240 forums that I have found - PM me if you want a copy and I will be happy to send it somehow (it's a bit big for e-mail). I suspect that the core parts of the engine and their service instructions will be much the same however.

 

Regards

 

Iain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can send you any info you need

 

the engines in a Pinzgauer are different but that's because I went through every detail.

 

You need a very good quality drive socket. You are supposed to change all the head bolts, torque, torque again, run it and torque again..........pain

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]92367[/ATTACH]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Pinz manual will cover your basics. Later Pinz engines have different timing belts, turbos, I believe the piston oil cooling jets are Pinz specific, different cam.

 

The manual pages I have cut in above is for P80/P90 so is mostly the same. There are 3 thicknesses of headgasket, but best option is to get later model as the newer ones are stronger. From memory it was fairly easy to rebuild with no real tricky bits. You need special tools for timing, timing belt tension and if you time on an engine stand.

 

The only bit that scared me was undoing the head bolts with the drive socket as took a bit of oomph

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...