Jump to content

Land Rover 90 FFR

Recommended Posts

Well now that I've finished the rebuild of my series 3 (link to its own rebuild thread on another forum here http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/1976-series-3-rebuild-202564.html ), its now time to be looking at my brothers 90. Its a 1986 (I think IIRC) FFR with all the gear stripped out. Has a bit of history as this went out in the first gulf war apparantly, underneath the green you can still see the sand coloured paint. Bulkhead needs some work (door pillars are pretty shot) and footwells need replacing but all in all its not too bad. Plan is to swap the rear axle to the spare discovery one we have to make it discs all round. The engine in it is a 12J 2.5N/A diesel (same as mine), no plans yet for an upgrade. Right time for some pictures























The rotten pillar









Doors also need a bit of work doing to them






The interior















Aftermarket ignition barrel which needs replacing















First thing was to take off the spare wheel, this reveals quite a bit of the sand paint










Link to comment
Share on other sites

The mighty 2.5 diesel






Bonnet will be replaced as we have sourced a good spare. The military fittings will just be swapped over






The bonnet stay was unbolted at the wing end and the bonnet was lifted up out of the rubbers (you have to lift it past the normal open position to do this)






The front plastic grill was removed as was the horn bracket that was inside






Next, the lights and light fittings were all removed









The army side light fittings have a couple of screws and then they should just pull out allowing you to disconnect the wires






Back of the light fitting









We then started to strip the front end down












The wheel and arches were taken off to get better access for taking the wing off









The crossmember piece in front of the rad was taken off first









Various brackets had to be unbolted before lifting the wing off






The plan was to fetch the inner wing and outer wing off seperately but then we ended up taking it all off in one go









Drivers side wing was then taken off




Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next job was to take the doors and roof off. The roof has a row of bolta on top of the windscreen as well as a bolt in each corner and a bracket in the middle of the tub sides on top of the capping









Floor was the next thing to come off, a lot of the phillips heads had been rounded so had to be ground off












Next was the turn of the seatbox, theres a row of bolts at the back and along the sill panel as well a couple at the front. All were 10mm (M6)









We could then make a start on getting the tub off by unbolting the brackets, its easier to do than the one on my 88"


















Took it out for a jetwash in the garden and this is where we're up to now :)









Now for Dad to make his appearance on film driving it back into the garage :D




Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Right then an update at last :D Was on hold whilst my brother had his exams and stuff (it is his after all)



The rear section of exhaust was removed first. As you can see, the cross member has been replaced at some point and it wasnt welded all the way across at the top (a lot of the welds were like pigeon s**t too :rolleyes:








Front section of exhaust (better condition than the back half) also came off






The back axle was the next thing to come off. This will be swapped with the axle off our old discovery 1 so it will have disk brakes all round :)



The old diff pan had rusted through






The prop shaft was the first thing to come off









Then my brother took the torsion bars off (i think thats what they're called)






Interestingly, my Dad compared these to the ones off his TD5 defender and they're much thicker! Did MoD 90s have heavy duty versions fitted or something?



The A bar was also unbolted off the chassis






The shocks were removed, the springs compressed and the chassis was put on axles stands before wheeling the axle out of the garage











The chassis without the axle in place









Few pics of the pigeon s**t of a weld






We've got the history of the vehicle as it comae from my dads boss and this was done by a professional garage supposedly!






My Dad soon sorted that out when he was off work :) Done a great job on it, looks like a proper job now! He also cut off the bar that had been welded across as a sort of jig as it no longer served any purpose









Stay tuned for more updates! It should come along now my brothers finished his exams



Also I bought my Dad a new needle gun for fathers day, much better than a grinder as it doesnt blow all the dust in the air :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You don't really need spring compressors on a Defender, you can generally stand on the end of the axle with the chassis on jack stands and they swing enough down to kick the spring out. I just mention it as compressors are a pain in the butt.


There is a good youtube video of a chassis rebuild using a high lift jack



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great photo documentation of what your doing.


Question, if you are swapping axles to change the brakes does that void the description restoration? If you swap a different engine (ie tdi) in would that also add weight to that argument?


I'm glad you found a use for your younger brother (clad in personal PPE clothing) nice to see the young ones being used for more than phone stand.


As you say you wonder how blind the previous MOT inspector was, no hold down for the battery, awful structural welds.


Keep it coming



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well it is a restoration but an improvement in the mechanical side of things to make it more liveable with as its to be a daily driver. If we didnt have a spare dsco axle knocking around we woudnt bother. The 2.5 N/A is staying as it is. Everything else is staying as it is I think but that depends on my brother as its his vehicle.



As an aside, my series 3 88" has a new chassis (well it was new 10 years ago, at least 3 engine changes (has a 12J in it now which I really like despite its fuel pump leak), I grafted a servo to a defender brake tower to make the brakes actually work and a gearbox swap once i rebuild my spare (I have a thread for that too on the landyzone forum (sorry to spam) http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/1976-series-3-rebuild-202564.html ). It is an interesting discussion though as to what counts as a restoration in the true sense of the word rather than swapping new bits for old


Anyways, thanks for the comments folks :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I were you I would ensure that the gearbox is improved. Work didn't want to go for the improved gearbox when we did the 90 relife. I think longterm it was a mistake. That pesky cross drilling of the main shaft is worth it.


I understand where your coming from. Great work, enjoy reading your progress



Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I were you I would ensure that the gearbox is improved. Work didn't want to go for the improved gearbox when we did the 90 relife. I think longterm it was a mistake. That pesky cross drilling of the main shaft is worth it.


I understand where your coming from. Great work, enjoy reading your progress




Interesting, what other differences are there with the improved gearbox?


Cheers :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the cross drilling is the major mod. Been ages since i looked at 3.5na specs but it has to fo with getting oil to a bearing.


I think i have the procedure on my pc at home but my guess if you ask on the landy fourm there should be a thread on it. Oops you cant ask on the landy fourm as everyone starts screaming use the search function...... generally a friendlier bunch in here 😊.


A disco transfer box is useful also if you do a lot of highway work as taller ratios.


You should change the rubber bit on the wishbone now you have it pulled apart as a pain to do from underneath. Do you have to change the brake master cylinder when you put the discs on the back (i cant recall if the proportioning valve is integral or separate)


I just finished a rebuild on a 300tdi hcpu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll certainly have a look at that! If i find more info I'll just take it to work and cross drill it there


The transfer box we've got spare is "reserved" for my dads td5 when he gets round to it :D Its still going to be nippier than my series anyway haha :D


The proportioning valve stays the same as does the master cylinder (what I've been told anyway). Its a straight swap.


I assume you mean the A-frame ball joint? Yes thats getting swapped and a new set of poly bushes are getting put on (they came in the post today :) )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did a legs 1:1 transfer case in my lightweight and it was the best cash i spent on her. The only issue was had to reverse in low range.


Yep the big ball joint on the A frame.. did one from under and dont relish doing it again.


It may pay to confirm on the prportioning valves for brakes as although i have never done it on a landy you normally have to change it so the rear brakes come on after the front. Some cars have a valve you adjust and some the master cylinder is different.


Anyway looking forward to the next installment

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Bump: Not been much happening to this due to working on the s3 and other stuff in the house as well as my brother doing A-levels (its his 90 and im reluctant to just dive in without him as much as id like to)


Jobs done since the last update:

Rear axle from a disco has been fitted after swapping the drive shafts and diffs from the 90 axle

Front axle has been cleaned up and painted and new shocks have been fitted


Will get some pics later clear.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As promised, pictures!

General shot of painted crossmember (Wilkos black gloss radiator paint)



Shot showing the white painted diff pan, the convoy light gets reflected off this




Rear disks, just got to fit callipers and mud shields to the rear






New rear shocks






New polybushes have been fitted all round, here is a shot of the panhard rod bush






New shocks and turrets for the front







General shot of the front, next project will be the bulkhead, lots of welding to be done on this one




Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...