Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


10 Good
  1. Really interesting conversion. Just in case you didn't get an answer its a 3 bearing (5 bearing has strengthening ribs on the block above the sump)
  2. Goodto know you sorted it and its a nice simple fix Having a 2.5NA in a series 3, turbo systems are a bit of a black magic to me along with electrics haha
  3. Blue smoke can be caused by a couple of things (not just turbo). The most common one is the valve stem seals let oil pass down to the combustion chamber. Another could be rings of course allowing oil to pass As much as it would be a pain you could try running the engine sans turbo and I it still emits blue smoke you know its one of the above. Valve stem seals are pennies and easy to fit but is a head off job
  4. I did get a merlin report but the only thing i got was a vehicle spec sheet
  5. Evening all, Got the history of my brothers FFR 90 and seems it was with 2 Royal Irish Rangers in 1987 and then with 2 Royal Green Jackets from 1988 till 2000. My question would be is there a way of finding out a bit more detail into its history like where it was based with those 2 regiments over the years it served with them? Sam
  6. As above, rebuilding my brothers FFR 90 which served in Gulf War 1. Its going sand but would like to know what they actually looked like in service (markings, equipment etc). Can find bugger all on google, plenty 110s and leafers but not so much 90s, any pictures and advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks, Sam
  7. Next job was to move the rear lifting bracket out of the way so as to gain access to the banjo bolt for the head oil feed. This was done with a 10mm socket. Next an 8mm socket was used to remove glow plug wiring Then the oil feed pipe was removed using a 19mm socket on the 2 banjo bolts, one in the head and one in the block The glow plugs were then taken out with a 13mm dep socket and strung together with the wiring, at least now we cant misplace anything Next the 13mm bolts holding the rocker cover to the head are removed (the smaller more gold looking bolts seen in this pic) Once this was removed, the pushrods were taken out and placed into cardboard in order numbered 1 - 8. It is important not to get these mixed up Once everything is off, the head bolts can be slackened off evenly going by the book to get the order for bolt removal Can then be lifted off, ready to be serviced later, the hotspots have some large cracks going through them and theres a lot of crap in the water jacket
  8. Stage 2: Removing the cylinder head More progress, the engine stand was still set up for my 2.5N/a when that was on the stand which made life simpler. (Needs turning round in the photo) Next up is to remove the breather pipes. These werent standard jubilees on this one, instead they were 6mm hex The pipe going to the filler cap is held in place with this bracket which is removed with a 10mm socket/ spanner Once these were removed, it was time to remove the rocker cover nuts with a 13mm socket. The rear one holds the other breather hose in place, and the middle one has the bracket on it for the heater pipes and filler cap breather hose Rocker cover should then lift off. If its stuck a tap with a mallet usually frees it Next step was the exhaust and inlet manifold which are removed using a 13mm socket on an extension bar The image below shows the clamps on the top and just nuts at the bottom Next up was the thermostat housing. This is removed through using a 10mm socket on the three bolts on top. These are very long and thin so if they're corroded then they may snap, luckily these came out easily Then it was the turn of the injectors, first the pipes were removed For the injectors, the spill rail was first removed using a 10mm socket to remove the banjo bolts. Next a 13mm socket was used to remove the two injector bolts. To get the injectors out the bore, a brass drift was used on the underside to knock them up gently, then a pry bar was used to lever them out being careful not to damage anything and being careful that it doesnt fly out the bore and land on the floor. My brother has since taken his injectors to college to test, all are fine cracking off slightly above 135 bar but one has a little injector dribble so will be having a look at that later on
  9. As some of you may know Im currently doing an ex-FFR 90 with my brother and its come to the engine rebuild stage so thought Id share what we've been up to and hope it helps some of you or interests you at the very least. Stage 1: Getting the engine ready to lift onto the engine stand Before doing anything, mark up the clutch and the flywheel so you know which way it goes when re-fitting. It makes life much easier if there is a chance of different hole centres in the clutch - just something I learnt through my own experience in work. The first thing to take off will be the clutch assembly As the engine spins when you try and crack open a bolt, the proper timing pin was placed into the flywheel to hold it in position to stop the engine turning. (you could also either have a socket on the crank pulley or jam the ring gear if starter is removed) The 6 retaining bolts were then removed using a 13mm socket Once the assembly was removed, the bolts were put back in place so we dont lose them. The flywheel bolts were removed using a 22mm socket on air driven impact gun, note the big retaining plate/ washer behind the bolts along with the dowel meaning the flywheel can only go back on one way Revealing a rather oily flywheel housing, comfirming my suspicion that the rear crank seal is passing oil Before taking the housing off, the starter motor was removed using 17mm socket and spanner. The earth bolt for the cable from the block to the motor is removed with a 13mm socket. Next the flywheel housing itself is taken off, again with 17mm socket. There are 6 bolts inside the housing and 2 above. These 2 bolts have a bracket on them to hold wiring. These are also longer than the other 6 Its all pretty oily Ready for lifting tomorrow evening Tools needed: Clutch assembly - 13mm socket Flywheel - 22mm socket Starter motor to engine block earth bolt - 13mm socket Starter motor - 17mm socket and spanner Flywheel housing - 17mm socket
  10. Congratulations on sorting the o-ring You may have to bleed the system now though if its run that low on fuel. I cheated a bit on mine and jump started to the golf and had my dad keep it cranking while i cracked the injector unions until diesel came through. The starter gets quite hot though so you have to give it a break occasionally. The 2.5 seems to take forever to bleed through for some reason
  11. How do you go about getting a merlin report? Im interested to find out the history of our 90. I know it was in the first gulf war but would be good to know what units its been with over the years
  12. Hopefully you'll find this useful, it's a thread I did when I rebuilt my 2.5, maybe the pictures will be helpful https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/sams-2-5-n-a-diesel-strip-down-and-rebuild-thread.242186/
  13. In case you didnt know, its a Lucas CAV DPS pump. Theres tonnes of stuff on the DPA as found on 2.25s but I couldnt seem to find a lot on the DPS otherwise I would have attempted to do it myself. Got fed up of it in the end and got a recon part exchanged Oh also, its worth whipping the head off to check the precombustion chambers, I found mine ran well but they all had massive cracks running across them
  14. Here we go again! Looks a good project, good to see another landy project Im afraid you'll need a recon injector pump if its leaking that bad from the body. Can you see where it leaks from? The one on the 12J in my series leaked badly, in the end i had to fork out and replace it
  • Create New...