R Cubed Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 My truck is now getting to the stage where I need some new tyres, OH NO bar grips or another type !!!! No, sorry all it has to be bar grips, that is what they came with, so that is what it is going to get, but 10 though, agh thats lots of money :-o :-o :-o :-o :cry: :cry: The thing is I have heard some scary things about trying to strip the rims down to change tyres, has anyone out there done it or can explain how it is done..... R Cubed wanting to stay alive...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Take it to a lorry place......much safer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunner Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Hi R Cubed: If you are at all mechanical its not that difficullt UNLESS the tyres have 'bonded' with the rims. Follow all the safety rules in the manuals, ensure that the air is all gone (remove the valve) push the tyre down off the locking ring and and then pry the locking ring from the rim. Many big pry bars, large sledge hammers and a "devil take the dings" attitude towards your paint will all help. Once the locking ring is off, pull the tyre up off the rim. Six lads and a small dog will help. Now you have your tyre off the rim... sand blast the rim (needle gun it first if it is badly corroded), pull the inner tube protector and inner tube out of the tyre and clean them up. A carefull inspection (you will get quite black here) will tell you if you can reuse the tubes or need to buy new ones for your new tyres. Prime the rims and paint them with many many coats of shiny black anti-rust paint... matt paint is hydroscopic (it absorbs water) and then shoot a coat or two of your final colour onto the parts of the rim not covered by tyre. Cram the tubes and liners into the new tyres and check if there is a balance spot with which you must line up the valve stem. Drop the tyre onto the rim (the use of some soapy water helps) and refit the locking ring. IMPORTANT safety warning- bugger the nice paint job by passing BIG chain through every rim hole and chain the mess up like a "Soprano" going for a swim... leave enough slack in the chain to allow for the expansion of the tyre when you inflate it. A tyre cage works as well as all the chain and doesn't mar the paintwork. With no valve installed and using a clip-on inflator (no hands, arms or faces anywhere near the tyre add 10 pounds of air. Let the tyre pop up so that the bead holds the locking ring in place. Now let all the air out again... this allows the tube to sort itself out inside the tyre and seats the tyre on the rim. Now hook up your clip-on inflator again and get far away or stand behind something big like a Chieftain or 432. Still without a valve, inflate the tyre to 3/4 of its rated pressure. Wait five minutes to see if any hidden flaws in your work result in a huge KABANG and bits of rim, tyre or both flying about the yard! Let all the air out and install the valve. Go hide again (clip-on inflator, fitted of course). Fill the tyre to its rated pressure. Leave it for 5 minutes. Now remove the chain... if you didn't leave a few inches of slack in each loop you will have to start back at the "Soprano" paragraph! Fit the tyre and rim assembly to the truck and gently let the weight back down while standing inline with the tyre so you see it edge on not side on. Do this 10 times. :schocked: Plan on two hours per tyre not counting sand blasting and painting. Making sure no-one is side-on to the tyres now all fitted back on the truck, take it for a test drive around the yard. Now go out on the street and slowly work up to 30 mph paying especial attention to any wobbles, etc. Now drive to a large truck tyre place and have them balance the units for you. OR: drive to the large truck tyre place with the new tyres in the back and let them do it all which will save the trip to get the tyres balanced! :-D Good luck from an idiot who refuses to pay for something he can do himself; resulting in many unhappy hours beating on, cutting off and at times even burning off old tyres! Cheers and Ubique! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted May 10, 2007 Author Share Posted May 10, 2007 Thanks Mike for the words of wisdom about how to re-inflate the tyres, is there an art to removing the drop rim as there is surpose to be some thin bits on the rim to allow it to slide over the main part of the wheel ? do you know anything about this ? R Cubed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted May 16, 2007 Author Share Posted May 16, 2007 Well next installment, get a tyre lever and get it in the slot, waggle it about a bit and hey presto off comes the drop rim. Now the next bit is to get the inside bead of the tyre off the wheel. :? :? hmmmmm not sure about this stay tuned..... R Cubed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted June 10, 2007 Author Share Posted June 10, 2007 Well yesterday was an interesting day, as in the last post I have the drop rim off so now was the task of trying to get the tyre off the rim :shake: well that was very difficult, resulted in using an engine crane to lift wheel up off the tyre, this provided suitable tension on the tyre so I could work round the bead with a peice of wood and hammer gradualy working the tyre bead off the wheel so success, needled the wheel and will spray and paint inside, then reassemble the whole lot. R Cubed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Here we go again : Sounds TYREING!!!! :rofl: :rofl: :whistle: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted June 10, 2007 Author Share Posted June 10, 2007 :tongue: Just tyreing to be helpfull...... :schocked: :schocked: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 You could put a video on youTUBE :whistle: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted June 10, 2007 Author Share Posted June 10, 2007 Today was tyre day :shake: well it was not as bad as I thought, so here we go the first pic is getting the tyre lever in the hole on the rim, PLEASE NOTE ONLY DO THIS WITH THE TYRE VALVE OUT. then with tyre lever in one hand and a club hammer in the other start levering the rim off the wheel, but at the same time bang the rim on the opposite side downwards this gives some play so the rim where the tyre lever is can ride over the wheel. The subject wheel Tyre lever in the hole This is the point you start tapping the rim round and levering at the same time and gradually the rim will work free with no big problems, don't try and lever it off all in one go this will only bend the rim work it off as you go round the rim with the tyre lever. The rim off the wheel, Easy peasy.......... Now this is the hard part... Get special tool No blar blar blar 00078564 and fit as in pic Apply air pressure and work round the wheel to break bead from wheel. Then get special tool part No. Engine crane 575854 and fit wheel as per pic Apply some pull and again work round with lever to work tyre down the wheel rim and there you go tyre on floor and wheel in the air. Assembly is the easy bit but have not done this yet so stay tuned and await the next instalment. R Cubed ( AKA God ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted June 10, 2007 Author Share Posted June 10, 2007 You could put a video on youTUBE :whistle: Not at the moment I have not got any means of digital video but will be getting a new Canon camera soon so you never know I might even do that :shake: :shake: :shake: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Just a quick suggestion, but where you have used an engine crane to suspend the tyre, will a small stool or block not suffice? Most tyre fitters have a metal stool with graded steps to fit most wheel centres. It would be a little more stable than an engine crane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 We used to favour dropping truck wheels on to said stool, shock and gravity used to then take over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted June 11, 2007 Author Share Posted June 11, 2007 Ah but the chains at the bottom of pic are hooked to the tyre and then round the engine crane legs, to provide some pull for those stubbon tyres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted June 11, 2007 Share Posted June 11, 2007 Ah ha. Clever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted June 13, 2007 Author Share Posted June 13, 2007 Some other versions of wheels fitted to my truck, this wheel below I believe is the correct type to be used on the GMC trucks, it has a one piece solid drop rim which has to leavered out over the wheel to get it off and the spokes are almost straight. http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/D4100001.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0070R.jpg[/img] Here is a bare wheel after needle gunning to remove the rust after etch priming but before painting. http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0059R.jpg[/img] The next pic shows a repair to the wheel, again this is a straight spoked wheel, this repair has been carried out due to excess wear on the bolt holes, which hold the wheel to the hubs, what has been done is a plate has been welded to the inside of the wheel and a new set of holes drilled half way between the old ones through the new plate. http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0064R.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0065R.jpg[/img] In the following pics you are able to see a wheel which has a different rim again this has 2 pieces to it, a outer main rim and a inner retaining ring which is split, I have not taken this to bits but it looks like you need to push the outer rim down and leaver out the retaining ring before removing the rim you have pushed down http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0061R.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0062R.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0063R.jpg[/img] This wheel is very much like the first wheel but the spokes have a major curve to them and also the rim is split as in the pic its not a crack :shake: http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0066R.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0067R.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0068R.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0069R.jpg'>http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0069R.jpg'>http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0069R.jpg[/img] The pics below show how to remove the rim from these types of wheel. AGAIN PLEASE NOTE ONLY CARRY OUT RIM REMOVAL WITH THE TYRE VALVE OUT IF NOT YOU COULD DIE :shake: :shake: :shake: :shake: BE WARNED Using the small cutout in the rim start there with the tyre leaver and work round clockwise. http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0069R.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0072R.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0074R.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0075R.jpg[/img] http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/R_Cubed/IMG_0076R.jpg[/img] There you go easy peasy. R Cubed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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