Rick W Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 (edited) I need to do a quick gasket change on the sump gasket and timing chain cover gasket on the jeep before the weekend. Is it possible to change the chain cover gasket without taking off the bottom crank pulley. Can I just unbolt the cover and slip a new gasket in behind it? Edited June 4, 2013 by Rick W D**n spellchecker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 (edited) I'm afraid not Rick as you won't be able to scrape the old gasket off properly, if you don't do this you'll end up with another leak :-(:-( The best bodge you could try is get some silicone sealant cut the nozzle to give you a very small bead, loosen off the chain cover jam the nozzle into the gap and squirt a bead into the gap and tighten everything up. This is a get you out of trouble bodge not something to be recommended as a cure. Pete Edited June 2, 2013 by Pete Ashby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 Thanks Pete, it's a bodge I need at the moment until I can so it properly next week. Leaking oil all over the belt and going back to the brake drum which made for an interesting drive out today, as well as a smokey one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 One more thing, the bolt which bolts into the bottom of the fuel strainer keeps leaking fuel what is the remedy, it's as tight as I dare tighten it, yet still leaks, not when running, but after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeePig Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Is the leak from the bolt, or running down on the rear side from a joint further up? Whichever, it sounds like seal replacement time, not nice having an under-hood fire, the firemen arrive with a large axe to chop off your battery lead If the oil is on the pulley, are you certain that it is not the pulley oil seal that is leaking. I am not familiar with the 'topology' of jeep timing chain covers, but gasket leaking oil usually just drips on the ground or gets blown over the sump for most vehicles. trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 The area around crank pulley is covered in oil and it blew back to the external brake drum, which on a long test run warmed up a little! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Check your oil filter supply and return lines. You could have a leak or the line supplying the top of the timing cover could be cross threaded. The timing cover seal normally never gives issues. The CRANKSHAFT oil seal can leak (due to a groove being worn in the crankshaft journal by the seal itself), also if you did not apply sealant/proper seals the oil can seep out via the nose of the crankshaft. If, (BIG IF) you think the timing cover seal is leaking, you cannot get the goo along the bottom of the cover, nor anywhere near the bottom center part... ie you would be wasting your time. Taking off the radiator, removing the crank pulley and timing cover/gear is about 1 hour of work with the right tools. Less if you have help. As for your fuel strainer bolt.. get a fiber washer. If the plug is leaking then either the sealing surface has a nick in it, or the treads are damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick W Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Aha! I taken out the rad, the oil filter pipe to the chain cover is fairly gone, outer rubber casing is kaput although inner pipe looks intact but will be replacing that anyway. Will try the fibre washer route to stop fuel leak, don't think ptfe tape is fuel proof. There is a large amount of oil on front diff and on top of the front sump guard which is leading me to suspect chain cover. As its running on the original engine without rebuild its only to be expected! Will check the threads as well, thanks for the advice, appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Don't go by where the oil is pooling. It may not lead you in the right direction. An old trick is to dust the part you think that is leaking with talc or some other powder. The oil will absorb the powder and show the 'trail' UP to the leaking part. Granted this works in a limited amount of areas, for the transmission/transfer case it works quite well. You should be emptying the fuel filter bowl quite often... so taping the plug is not really a cure. A fiber washer (or even a copper crush washer or an o-ring) will seal a lot better and will allow for frequent draining of the bowl. It *may not* be a fix though... the center post is pressed into place and it may be leaking from the hole in the bowl itself. You can re-press it... but it takes a bit of ingenuity to get a proper die for the center post. I read that some had luck with silver solder. If you don't already have the rubber grommet on the oil filter bracket hole that the oil line feed through now is a great time to spend the money for one (or replace the one you have if it is worn). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon king Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 (edited) The other, often overlooked, source of leaks is the aperture where the fuel pump arm passes through the side of the block. Oil will track down and appear to be coming from the timing chain cover or sump gaskets. Check the integrity of the gasket and the tightness of the two bolts that attach the fuel pump to the block, The trick with the bolts is because it is impossible to get a normal size socket onto the bolt, instead use a 1/4 drive socket and ratchet with an extension bar. Alternatively you can do what REME used to do which was to use a hacksaw to cut a slot in the head of the bolt and use a screwdriver. I thought the drain bolt on the bottom of the fuel filter bowl had a pipe thread and no washer or gasket- but may be wrong. Is that the problem - or is it the bolt on the top of the filter? I used pipe sealant(got mine from Frosts) on all such places - and touch wood - have had no problems One final point - have you got a pulley guard fitted - and if you have, are the spacer washers fitted between the pulley guard and the sump - if not you cannot tighten that front row of sump nuts sufficiently. The spot where the timing chain cover gasket meets the sump gasket at a right angle is always worth extra attention as well...... Edited June 27, 2013 by simon king Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 You are correct, it is called a plug (in the SNL) but it's not a pipe plug... it has a shoulder. The pressed in center tube is sufficiently flat to allow for a washer/crush washer/o-ring. http://jeepdraw.com/images/jeepdraw/PART_COLOURS/FORD-Page41-image.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.