Danny P Posted September 13, 2022 Author Share Posted September 13, 2022 I would like to replace the felt grommets for the dash panel with new ones! Does anyone know where to get them? There are complete sets available for the willy's jeep but how about other vehicles? Cheers, Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted September 13, 2022 Share Posted September 13, 2022 If you find someone that can deliver the felt you could make it your self with some hollow punches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PPvdh Posted September 19, 2022 Share Posted September 19, 2022 Did you bought the truck in the region of Aalst Belgium? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny P Posted September 22, 2022 Author Share Posted September 22, 2022 Citroman, you will need professional punching tools to make these felt grommets properly. I wonder who makes the grommets for the Willy's jeep. Perhaps this manufacturer can also make them for other vehicles such as the bedford. I think I have all the original grommets for sizing! PPvdh, the bedford came from Koekelare Belgium. Cheers, Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny P Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 (edited) The project is slowly progressing but with satisfying results! GS-body sprayed. Next, the complete front axle. Sandblasting and spraying of front axle parts (not too many pictures made but all done). Spraying of front axle parts. Front axle almost completed i.e. sandblasted, primed, in olive drab green and reassembled. New bushes. Ready to place back the complete front axle under the chassis. Next time is the replacing of the front axle and I am planning to do the steering column and pedals ... Cheers, Danny Edited January 8 by Danny P 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 Really impressed with the standard of your work it's ordered, meticulous and with attention to the detail. Congratulations Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny P Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 Thanks Pete, this keeps me going as do the recent likes! 😃 I am considering buying a new wiring harness from autosparks but they are offering two versions. Does anybody know the difference between them? I haven't contacted autosparks yet because I might be able to ask someone who has installed a same wiring harness and knows the application, and hopefully not some issues, in practise! Furthermore, it is not quite clear to me what is meant by the extra option for wiring for the indicators i.e. what is meant by (quote) "Wiring for indicators - To work from original trafficator switch. Trafficators will NOT work off the same switch. (Order 'SFL' modification if you wish to use trafficators) It must be easy to explain but I am a Dutchman and so do not understand the language for 100% so to speak. 🤨 Aren't trafficators the same as indicators? To some extent I realise I will need to order this extra option to legally use public roads (haha!) I hope someone can explain to me so I know what to order ... Many thanks, Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Hi Danny They supply two types of loom BF23c This is for early MW's with the early instrument panel (i.e. separate oil pressure and ammeter Fig.1) BF14c This is for later MW's (like yours) with the later instrument panel (i.e. combined oil pressure and ammeter in one instrument Fig.2) Trafficators are the same as indicators - best to have this option - you will need to fit an indicator switch and relay The only other mod I would get them to do is to add an additional headlight wire so that the dip/main switch can be used like in modern vehicles (the original dip/main just switched between headlights. This is what the BF14c wiring conforms to What you want is I went through a lot of trouble to get the loom correct and have told Autosparks many times to amend their website but they tale no notice. Feel free to PM me if you want more detailed information Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Traficators are levers with a lamp on it that flap open. Indicators are blinking lamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny P Posted February 5 Author Share Posted February 5 Thank you guys! Very useful information! It is looking quite straightforward to me when following the diagram and colors. Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny P Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 (edited) I have contacted Autosparks and they provide a great service by supplying a harness without the braided outer covering and invites the customer to run a dry fit of the harness. During fitment any changes that may be required can be documented and the harness can be returned to carry out any required amendments and apply the finished outer braiding. In order to make optimal use of their service, I have decided to wait and first complete the project as far as possible for a better understanding of the needs for a proper harness. Thanks, Danny Edited March 17 by Danny P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny P Posted March 17 Author Share Posted March 17 (edited) I therefore change the subject to the steering column. I wanted to replace the lower grommet on the steering column (red encircled in the drawing) but was surprised not knowing how to do it! I do not see how to remove the steering column cover, or tube, in order to be able to slide over the grommet. I have slacken the clamp on the tube and thought I could slide up the tube towards the steering (which is off) wheel but no. What do I have to loosen to slide on a new grommet? Cheers, Danny Edited March 17 by Danny P 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny P Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 I had a look again at the steering gear for the replacement of the grommet, lower, steering column cover (no. 66 encircled in previous drawing). In the below picture you can see the top of the steering gear with the woodruff key at the left and bearing assembly at the bottom. I have slacken the clamp at the base of the column cover (no.82 in previous drawing). I guess this is all I have to do to draw off the cover but there is no easy sliding movement I would expect. Have I overlooked something? Can anybody help me how to remove the cover please? Many thanks, Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny P Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 (edited) Quote The clamp at the base of the column cover is slackened. The woodruff key is also removed now, together with the steering wheel retaining nut and spring. It looks like the bearing assembly at the top of the steering column is preventing the column cover from being removed. I assume the complete bearing assembly or at least the inner race has to be removed? It is about 1 cm deep in the cover. CAN SOMEONE HELP PLEASE HOW TO REMOVE? Cheers, Danny Edited March 30 by Danny P 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 (edited) Hi Danny With the clamp bolt slacked off you should be able to rotate the steering cover sleeve without the main shaft turning. With the woodruff key removed you should be able to pull the steering cover sleeve off. I suspect that the top end of your shaft has become rusted and thus is a very tight fit so you could use a soft ended hammer and tap the main shaft whilst holding the outer sleeve (also apply some penetrating oil on the shaft which will also help). I would recommend that you extract and clean and grease the bearing. The outer sleeve is designed to move up and down a bit so that the steering wheel can be snugly fitted. The alternative is that you pull off the rubber yoke (Item 94) which is clamped to the inside of the bulkhead, on mine it was split to aid easy removal (looking at your photo, I think yours is also split), the old gaiter can then be removed, as the diameter of the steering wheel end is greater than the main column use some washing on the new gaiter so the it can be eased over the steering wheel end. Hope this all make sense, next week end when I get access to my spare steering box I will send you some additional photos. Cheers Richard Edited March 30 by 64EK26 added part reference number 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64EK26 Posted March 30 Share Posted March 30 Hi Danny This is what the bearing looks like Length 1.18" (30mm) ID 0.905" (23mm) OD 1.383" (35mm) Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny P Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 Thank you very much Richard! 👍 That's quite a large piece of metal. Now I understand why it will not come off easily, especially when it is rusted on the column cover. I was too much focussed on the stearing gear rather than having a look at the replacement gaiter itself. The new gaiter is of a much softer rubber than the painted and dry old gaiter. With some soap on the inside of the new gaiter and some on the wide end of the column cover the gaiter slid over easily. Easy job at last. Furthermore, I rinsed the bearing with some pentrating oil to wash out the old grease and dirt and regreased the bearing. Many thanks, Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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