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Stop light switch removal/refitting Hotchkiss jeep


hoppy

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Just getting the jeep ready for MOT and found that the brake lights were not working; I have traced the problem to the stop light switch on the brake master cylinder. I have the new switch and have the lights working but as of yet I have not refitted.

 

My question is, is it just a simple case of unscrewing the switch off and replacing it or do I need to drain the brake fluid? If it's just a simple case of unscrewing and refitting do the brakes need bleeding?

 

 

Many thanks.

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The brakes will need bleeding. No need to drain if you swap them quickly, but you will introduce air into the system, so it will need bleeding. From memory, it's the right rear first being furthest away from the master cylinder, then left rear, right front then left front, topping up the master cylinder as you go.

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The brakes will need bleeding. No need to drain if you swap them quickly, but you will introduce air into the system, so it will need bleeding. From memory, it's the right rear first being furthest away from the master cylinder, then left rear, right front then left front, topping up the master cylinder as you go.

 

Thought as much thanks for confirming it for me though; I am abit of a mechanic novice but since getting the jeep most fixes seem possible just having that bit of knowledge helps. The TM mauals for the switch just say change it.............

 

Many thanks

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I had no interest in vehicle maintenance before getting the Jeep. Many of the simple jobs seem a bit daunting at first, but because the Jeep is so simple, it is easy to work on and you'll soon gain confidence in doing Jobs. I'm now most of the way through rebuilding a '43 Ford and that has been quite an education!

 

0412.jpg

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I had no interest in vehicle maintenance before getting the Jeep. Many of the simple jobs seem a bit daunting at first, but because the Jeep is so simple, it is easy to work on and you'll soon gain confidence in doing Jobs. I'm now most of the way through rebuilding a '43 Ford and that has been quite an education!

 

0412.jpg

 

 

 

Yes I have been watching the updates I have got "I've been spending again" in my favourites. Any tips about how to keep the brake reservoir topped up whilst bleeding the brakes; apart from having really bendy arms and extra long fingers...............:laugh:

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Put a rubber tube onto the brake nipple and place it into a glass jar, fill the jar with some fluid and place the bottom of the hose below the fluid level, before you open the nipple. You can also buy kits for this. Then when you open the nipple and push the pedal and release the air is not drawn back into the sytem, so you can do it alone. If you have second person pushing the pedal, release nipple with pedal up and shut with pedal down. Always use a ring spanner or proper brake nipple thick spanner and be careful they can round off or worse still shear quite easily. Always bleed from the furthest wheel cylinder back towards the front.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sucess

 

Sorted this afternoon before rain and rugby stopped play! Replaced stop switch, had to mess with electrics a bit due to the connections on the new switch being different but now working so hopefully MOT this week.

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Do remeber if prior to 1st January 1960, no MOT needed, but a quick check by a second set of expert eyes, very useful. How many of us have brake testing kit at home?

 

Tony

Many thanks, 1962 Hotchkiss so off to the garage it is for me; without going on to much I know there is a thread about MOTing exempt vehicles; whilst over the last 12 months I have completed an engine refit and various other bits I am no where near or have the knowledge to not have an MOT. I think if it was exempt I would still go for an MOT, just my thoughts......

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Just a thought, if the switches regularly burn out due to arcing, would it not be cost effective to fit a high ampage relay in the circuit? Easier to replace as well.

I'm not familiar with Jeep gubbins at all but previous experience with another vehicle with a pressure type switch led me to fit it with a brake light switch from a Honda C50 mounted under the dash and attached directly to the brake pedal as I discovered the brake lights didn't work until you had already applied about 50lbs of pressure to the pedal! Bit late for my liking...

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