AndyFowler Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 Any thoughts on which is the best way to prime hardwood as I have read rather a lot of internet adverts this evening and am still none the wiser :nut:! So I would like to hear other forum members experiences please ? :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Any thoughts on which is the best way to prime hardwood as I have read rather a lot of internet adverts this evening and am still none the wiser :nut:! So I would like to hear other forum members experiences please ? :-D Andy, About 17 years ago i rebuilt the tailboard of my Bedford, with a hardwood, one of the tropical types, unusual name, i used one of those silver wood primers, then undercoat, gloss and final semi mat. i has never bubbled or lifted in all that time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 Andy, About 17 years ago i rebuilt the tailboard of my Bedford, with a hardwood, one of the tropical types, unusual name, i used one of those silver wood primers, then undercoat, gloss and final semi mat. i has never bubbled or lifted in all that time. Hi Richard , thanks for the reply, I'm using Sapele and have had Aluminium wood primer recommended from searching the web ! Now I have your recommendation I think thats the way forward ! Part of me would like to just varnish it as its such a nice timber but its for Daisy so DBG it has to be ! :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 What about using green oak then? Taxi! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 As Richard says, it was always reckoned to be best to use an aluminum primer to stop resin bleeding. A lesson I learned the hard way is not to get too keen and sand the wood first, the and don't sand the primer either, as exposing any ally primer can make the top coats peel off. Don't sand the undercoat till it's well dried, any further coats should be sanded. Other methods and paint systems are available, all advice given on a 'No I never said that' basis, all verbal complaints will be ignored and written ones used to light the fire unread, Fowler family children should be kept away from all paint that is not green. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 What about using green oak then? Taxi! Hi Tony , after much sniffing and plaining of the original remnants of the locker body floor by my wise old Dad it was decided that Sapele would be the best match for the original ! :angel: Mahogany being a little on the expensive side ! :wow: The lockers are formed of a less expensive type of timber I hope ! Plow bolts are a little bit of a problem at the moment but give it a few years and I'm sure I'll get there !:red: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 As Richard says, it was always reckoned to be best to use an aluminum primer to stop resin bleeding. A lesson I learned the hard way is not to get too keen and sand the wood first, the and don't sand the primer either, as exposing any ally primer can make the top coats peel off. Don't sand the undercoat till it's well dried, any further coats should be sanded. Other methods and paint systems are available, all advice given on a 'No I never said that' basis, all verbal complaints will be ignored and written ones used to light the fire unread, Fowler family children should be kept away from all paint that is not green. Thanks Bernard , can I just clarify that I SHOULD sand the timber BEFORE applying the ally primer ( Timber already plained all round so nice and smooth , so is it just for a key) ),don't sand the ally at all and then sand the undercoat only when fully hardened ! Just want to brief my legal team in case the paint should part company in the next sixty years ! :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Thanks Bernard , can I just clarify that I SHOULD sand the timber BEFORE applying the ally primer ( Timber already plained all round so nice and smooth , so is it just for a key) ),don't sand the ally at all and then sand the undercoat only when fully hardened ! Just want to brief my legal team in case the paint should part company in the next sixty years ! :-D Errmm didn't put that too well did I? see small print:D No need to sand the bare wood, trade practice around here (other areas may differ) was not to bother as the planed wood is not as microscopically smooth as it looks, some picky people even like to vacuum clean it to remove dust from the grain. Sanding just wastes time, if overdone it can spoil the nice edges and can make it all dusty, which might put dust in the ally primer which can make nibs that will show through when you sand the undercoat. Sanding the ally primer will cut through the nice paint surface into the ally particles, paint does not stick well to ally. Don't do it! Putting the undercoat on before sanding will protect the integrity of the primer. Be sure not to sand right through the undercoat either! I know all this because I once had the paint lift off in sheets from a pair of new doors because I sanded the ally primer, couldn't understand it till I spoke to a proper decorator! One of the other causes of paint blistering and lifting off is softening of the undercoats by applying the next coat before the one below has dried properly, so for goodness sake slow down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 Errmm didn't put that too well did I? see small print:D No need to sand the bare wood, trade practice around here (other areas may differ) was not to bother as the planed wood is not as microscopically smooth as it looks, some picky people even like to vacuum clean it to remove dust from the grain. Sanding just wastes time, if overdone it can spoil the nice edges and can make it all dusty, which might put dust in the ally primer which can make nibs that will show through when you sand the undercoat. Sanding the ally primer will cut through the nice paint surface into the ally particles, paint does not stick well to ally. Don't do it! Putting the undercoat on before sanding will protect the integrity of the primer. Be sure not to sand right through the undercoat either! I know all this because I once had the paint lift off in sheets from a pair of new doors because I sanded the ally primer, couldn't understand it till I spoke to a proper decorator! One of the other causes of paint blistering and lifting off is softening of the undercoats by applying the next coat before the one below has dried properly, so for goodness sake slow down! Thank you Bernard for that most informative reply , I may call you as an expert witness if I have to take legal action against the paint manufacturer in the future ! Having a well known celebrity on my legal team may make all the difference !:-D Oh and message received have slowed the restoration down !:nut: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivor Ramsden Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 .... Sanding the ally primer will cut through the nice paint surface into the ally particles, paint does not stick well to ally. Don't do it! !... So that's why the paint comes off the museum's window frames! I shall be consulting our legal team regarding your deliberate witholding of this vital information .... Seriously though, it's amazing what you pick up from this forum. I'll remember this for when it's time to paint the Morris CDSW's new body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Comber Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Errmm didn't put that too well did I? see small print:D No need to sand the bare wood, trade practice around here (other areas may differ) was not to bother as the planed wood is not as microscopically smooth as it looks, some picky people even like to vacuum clean it to remove dust from the grain. Sanding just wastes time, if overdone it can spoil the nice edges and can make it all dusty, which might put dust in the ally primer which can make nibs that will show through when you sand the undercoat. Sanding the ally primer will cut through the nice paint surface into the ally particles, paint does not stick well to ally. Don't do it! Putting the undercoat on before sanding will protect the integrity of the primer. Be sure not to sand right through the undercoat either! I know all this because I once had the paint lift off in sheets from a pair of new doors because I sanded the ally primer, couldn't understand it till I spoke to a proper decorator! One of the other causes of paint blistering and lifting off is softening of the undercoats by applying the next coat before the one below has dried properly, so for goodness sake slow down! Our retired member is still correct, Andy remember that the paint industry all changed two years ago and we now have to put up with thinner wishy washy products! We have found on Sapele especially it best to nip the first ally coat with a bit of spirit to make sure it soaks into the hardwood for a key, procedure then all as Bernard's precise notes.:bow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Just glad I retired then, I don't do wishey washey! Paint can pull back from Sharp edges so rubbing a bit of 180 along then never hurts. If you have been test fitting and handling it a lot, give it a wipe over with a white spirit soaked cloth, to get rid of any grease and stuff first. If you do this probably no need to thin, go by what the tin says! Oh and don't forget those nice numbers stamped into the ends :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyFowler Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Thank you John and Bernard , this is precisely why I posted this question to gain knowledge from all you wise men ! All advice will be heeded ! I am gonna attempt the numbers Bernard ! Need to practice on some waste material first though ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Glad we were able to help, maybe you could try just tapping a new screwdriver around the numbers, this should crush and impress the fibres so they don't spring back instead of spreading them like a sharp tool would. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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