Sourcing Parts For CCKW Bows and Seats

[Vulture]

Chaps

 

I have a few bits I'm after and I wondered if anyone can suggest a supplier (in the UK). My normal contact Rex Ward doesn't have any, and doesn't plan to stock any in the future.

 

1) A complete set of Leather straps for the bows.

 

2) About a dozen of the large screws that fix into the bows

 

3) About a dozen of the round headed bolts and nuts that keep the metal/woodwork on the seats together.

 

Kind regards

 

Vulture

[N.O.S.]

1). Speak to Jim Clark at Allied Forces, he has sets c/w the metal lugs- great value (can you please remind him to send my jeep seat-back satchel back.....)

 

2) ISTR UNF - I got some stainless steel ones with suitable flat domed head off the Internet last year, I have a few left but will have to check this week for size when I find them, there may be enough for you if so can send them over.

 

3). Not tried sourcing these but you'll probably get some small coach bolts / square nuts from fastener stockists.

Edited March 25, 2012 by N.O.S.

[deadline]

There is an issue of Army Motors (Sept, 42) that has a parts list of hardware. Should be pretty simple to find out what are the proper screws.

 

One thing I found out when I redid my M35a2 bows is that the standard length for the fillister head phillips screws were to long by about 1/2 inch. I have a local fastener place plus several industrial supplies locally and none had the proper length.. so they stick out the bottom quite far... so unless you cut them on a bandsaw your interior will be like a reverse porcupine.

 

I've seen the corner bow straps on e-bay quite frequently. Other than the leather strap, they are identical to whats on the M35 bows.

 

Remember to check your corner bows.. original WWII corner bows have the locating notch (as I call it) while post war M35/M44/M36 bows do not.

 

http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=627 plus I posted here about them.

[Vulture]

1). Speak to Jim Clark at Allied Forces, he has sets c/w the metal lugs- great value (can you please remind him to send my jeep seat-back satchel back.....)

 

2) ISTR UNF - I got some stainless steel ones with suitable flat domed head off the Internet last year, I have a few left but will have to check this week for size when I find them, there may be enough for you if so can send them over.

 

3). Not tried sourcing these but you'll probably get some small coach bolts / square nuts from fastener stockists.

 

 

N.O.S.

 

Thanks for that advice, I'll give Allied Forces a call later today. If you do have some spare screws that would be great

 

Kind regards

 

Vulture

[Vulture]

There is an issue of Army Motors (Sept, 42) that has a parts list of hardware. Should be pretty simple to find out what are the proper screws.

 

One thing I found out when I redid my M35a2 bows is that the standard length for the fillister head phillips screws were to long by about 1/2 inch. I have a local fastener place plus several industrial supplies locally and none had the proper length.. so they stick out the bottom quite far... so unless you cut them on a bandsaw your interior will be like a reverse porcupine.

 

I've seen the corner bow straps on e-bay quite frequently. Other than the leather strap, they are identical to whats on the M35 bows.

 

Remember to check your corner bows.. original WWII corner bows have the locating notch (as I call it) while post war M35/M44/M36 bows do not.

 

http://www.tm9-801.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=627 plus I posted here about them.

 

Deadline

 

I've started downloading the Army Motors but couldn't see a Sep 42 edition....

 

I'll get to grips with the issue with the bows and what type I have over the coming couple of weeks, your post of the types out there looks v informative. I'm about to be distracted by a bad earth/starter issue that flared up yesterday, so the bows will now have to take a back seat for a short while...

 

Kind regards

 

Vulture

[deadline]

I don't have the sept 42 issue.. but I have the article about the cargo beds.. PM an email address and I email you a PDF copy. I got the pages when I local fellow who restores the wooden steering wheels came over to get some measurements of the wood bed I had just retrieved.

 

I'm made contact with several people who say they have all the issues, but to date my request to digitize them have gone unfulfilled.

[N.O.S.]

OK if you mean the setscrews which clamp the two halves of the metal bow curved sections together, they are 5/16 UNC. Unfortunately I have only just enough for a full setof bows which I will need in the not too distant future, so I'd like to hang on to them (well actually I'm 3 short!).

 

On every bow I have - new or old, the thread is just a little bit tight, but after a few turns soon loosens up. Thread profile is just a smidgeon out on outer diameter I think. I tried 5/16 Whit but worse. Being U.S made they would have been UNC for sure.

 

I decided on stainless steel but can't remember after only 12 months if this was because the only decent head profile was available in s/s (don't want to cut the canvas :cool2:). Anyway they are a socket head dome profile.

 

If you look at a new pair of bows you'll choose 1 1/2" length like I did, but when you've assembled them all on the truck you may decide you'd have been better off with 1 1/4" length as they all stick out 1/4"inside when they've squeezed together around shrunken wood.......may need the odd longer one or a clamp and it is n absolute sod getting the holes lined up to get the thread started (but hey that's GMC ownership for you;)).

 

Also I can't find the invoice (pity 'cos they were good value - I seem to think it was A-1 Stainless or something?), but there are loads of s/s fastener stockists out there on the web, so you'll need to hunt around to get sensible price. This is a typical one from ebay and shows the head profile, not a bad price either for 20 pack (also 3 pack available):

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-UNC-Button-Head-Bolts-5-16-x-1-1-2-20-Pack-/370244274575?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item563447498f#ht_2255wt_1159

[deadline]

The screws are just binding head (I incorrectly said fillister) head with a phillips drive. Not very common.

 

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/N-1z0dna1

 

Good luck finding a a 5/16th-24 x 1 1/4 one though.. most are in 1/4 inch or smaller.

 

Fillister head screws are 99% identical and much easier to find in the proper length/diameter/pitch.

[N.O.S.]

1 1/4 here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-UNC-Button-Head-Bolts-5-16-x-1-1-4-4-Pack-/260462049779?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3ca4bf79f3#ht_2264wt_1159

 

At the time I couldn't find any of the flatter head ones like Deadline has shown (more like the originals), you may be luckier.

[deadline]

1 1/4 here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-UNC-Button-Head-Bolts-5-16-x-1-1-4-4-Pack-/260462049779?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3ca4bf79f3#ht_2264wt_1159

 

At the time I couldn't find any of the flatter head ones like Deadline has shown (more like the originals), you may be luckier.

 

Wrong pitch. You need 5/16th-24 x 1 1/4 24(TPI)threads per inch. Those are Thread Pitch: 18 TPI Plus they are socket head.

[N.O.S.]

 

Wrong pitch.

 

You need 5/16th-24 x 1 1/4 24(TPI)threads per inch. Those are Thread Pitch: 18 TPI

 

Plus they are socket head.

 

 

 

 

First off, looks like all the bows I've ever come across (two trucks with old bows - but who knows if they are wartime.... - and two sets of new ones from different sources) may have the wrong thread in the bushes.

 

24 TPI would be 5/16 UNF. The ones I've suggested, and used, are indeed 18 TPI (UNC).

 

They are indeed socket head (domed). Hence my note underneath -"At the time I couldn't find any of the flatter head ones like Deadline has shown(more like the originals), you may be luckier". I thought they were a pretty good compromise, plus the stainless steel won't rust-stain the canvas (I couldn't be bothered to paint them :blush: ).

 

Vulture - sorry but I don't feel I'm qualified to offer any further help on this matter as I do have a reputation for being a bit of a bodger - looks like I've been rumbled. :-D

 

Happy Days :-)

[deadline]

I am also looking for the proper bolts that why I looked at the auction listing you posted.

 

Details

Bolt Diameter: 5/16"

Bolt Length: 1.1/4" (not including head)

Threaded Length: Full Thread

Thread Pitch: 18 TPI

Allen Key Size: 3/16"

 

I'll post pics of an original and the ones I bought (that are two long).

 

I'll go out and check the originals I have.

 

Bodger or not (I'll assume that's not a good thing) if you have a reference that shows the proper wartime bolt size please post it.. any scrap of information if helpful.

[N.O.S.]

...

[RMS]

just got a set of leather straps for my GTB off of Fleebay, i think it is Jaap Reitveld selling them, i paid $60 for a full set.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130669624066?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_1201

 

they may have some more as they get listed quite regularly

 

 

Screws available from Fastenal -http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=27745

 

or dare is say it! (going to hide under my bed now) M8 is very close!!!!!! :shocked: an m8 Tap will adjust 5/16 UNC quite easily then your choice of screws is endless!

[Vulture]

:thanx:for all the ideas, information and links guys . Much appreciated

 

Vulture

[N.O.S.]

Vulture,

 

Have you decided to -

 

1) go for original screws (which we have been advised are UNF) and then try to find some bows which will accept them (unless yours are UNF of course), or

 

2) stick with the bows you have and find screws to suit, or

 

3) just say 'f%$k it' and use Barry's excellent bodge of tapping them metric? (mind the threaded bushes don't turn in the metal pressings though....)

 

[R Cubed]

This sounds interesting, presume we are talking about the bolts which fix the wooden bows and uprights to the metal curved corners, if so all the ones on my truck have very domed heads and have a single slot in it for a straight bladed screwdriver, and they are UNC, not sure of the actual size but will measure when I get a mo.

[Vulture]

Vulture,

 

Have you decided to -

 

1) go for original screws (which we have been advised are UNF) and then try to find some bows which will accept them (unless yours are UNF of course), or

 

2) stick with the bows you have and find screws to suit, or

 

3) just say 'f%$k it' and use Barry's excellent bodge of tapping them metric? (mind the threaded bushes don't turn in the metal pressings though....)

 

 

N.O.S.

 

Right at the moment I'm undecided :undecided:. Time permitting this coming weekend I need to dig all the bows out of the garage, and do a proper survey on them.

 

I pulled out my least favourite one this morning, for these photos:

 

 

 

The corrosion is nothing remotely serious, and looks worse on the photo than it really is. What isn't nice is the way this bolt has been forced part-way in by one of the previous owners, then just left ! :shocked::banghead: . Its going to be a right bugger to get out !

 

Vulture

[Zack Magnusson]

Deadline,

I'd like to get my hands on a copy of that PDF file you mentioned. I'm specifically interested in hardware and how to properly install it. Thanks.

 

I don't have the sept 42 issue.. but I have the article about the cargo beds.. PM an email address and I email you a PDF copy. I got the pages when I local fellow who restores the wooden steering wheels came over to get some measurements of the wood bed I had just retrieved.

 

I'm made contact with several people who say they have all the issues, but to date my request to digitize them have gone unfulfilled.