Ferret Bevel Box cork seal - renewing?

[Diana and Jackie]

Hi,

 

We're mystified as to how to replace the cork ring seal on our ferret bevel box without undoing the locking ring with a C spanner. The locking ring being prevented from turning with a metal tab. It appears that undoing the locking ring will alter the bearing preload,

 

Can anyone enlighten us as to how to go renewing the cork seal ? We've got a suitable C spanner but don't wish to remove the locking ring in case it upsets the preload.

 

 

The maintenance information is more than confusingas to how to go about it.

 

D&J

[Richard Farrant]

Hi,

 

We're mystified as to how to replace the cork ring seal on our ferret bevel box without undoing the locking ring with a C spanner. The locking ring being prevented from turning with a metal tab. It appears that undoing the locking ring will alter the bearing preload,

 

Can anyone enlighten us as to how to go renewing the cork seal ? We've got a suitable C spanner but don't wish to remove the locking ring in case it upsets the preload.

 

 

The maintenance information is more than confusingas to how to go about it.

 

D&J

 

Diana and Jackie,

 

The cork ring is on the outside of the inner tracta housing. When i say outside, I mean around the circumference, so no need to dismantle, only extract it from the bevel box.

 

regards, Richard

[Diana and Jackie]

Diana and Jackie,

 

The cork ring is on the outside of the inner tracta housing. When i say outside, I mean around the circumference, so no need to dismantle, only extract it from the bevel box.

 

regards, Richard

 

Thank you Richard. It appears that there wasnt a cork ring fitted, which is why we are mystified. The rubber O ring was more or less stuck on with goo of some sort.

 

If we understand correctly, remove the 4 unf bolts holding the tinplate gaiter ring, remove that, then remove the brass challis which also holds a conventional oil seal and the cork ring is behind that?

 

Attached some diagrams which may help others

 

Diana & Jackie

 

 

 

[Richard Farrant]

Thank you Richard. It appears that there wasnt a cork ring fitted, which is why we are mystified. The rubber O ring was more or less stuck on with goo of some sort.

 

If we understand correctly, remove the 4 unf bolts holding the tinplate gaiter ring, remove that, then remove the brass challis which also holds a conventional oil seal and the cork ring is behind that?

 

Attached some diagrams which may help others

 

Diana & Jackie

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]52968[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]52969[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

 

Hi,

 

The scans are not clear but without checking my book, am sure it is item 38. The O-ring you talk about with the goo, this is fitted at the point where the inner tracta housing slides out. as this is a weakness in design ( the cork seal I mean), there is always seepage here, but it is actually neccessary to ensure the inner housing does not sieze. As the suspension rises and falls this housing moves very slightly in and out.

 

Richard

[Diana and Jackie]

Hi,

 

The scans are not clear but without checking my book, am sure it is item 38. The O-ring you talk about with the goo, this is fitted at the point where the inner tracta housing slides out. as this is a weakness in design ( the cork seal I mean), there is always seepage here, but it is actually neccessary to ensure the inner housing does not sieze. As the suspension rises and falls this housing moves very slightly in and out.

 

Richard

 

Hope these scans are clearer

 

D&J

 

 

 

[Richard Farrant]

Thanks, yes it is 38, the cork comes as a rectangular strip and the join needs to be at the top.

[Whittingham warrior]

I've replaced an inner cork seal on a ferret sometime ago. Before you start the job strip it down so that the large brass seal holder (21) is still in place, centre pop the edge of it inline with the steel casting this will allow for it to be refiited inline with the dowels (19). The design of the seal holder (21) is a tapering fit and the dowels stop it turning they are also too short and once the casting is pushed in place it jams before it even reaches the dowels and has to be prised out again. This job can take either minutes or an age. The cork seal comes as a ring and should be soaked in oil overnight as it has to be stretched over the seal holder (21) and pushed into place.

Edited November 10, 2011 by Whittingham warrior

[Richard Farrant]

The cork seal comes as a ring and should be soaked in oil overnight as it has to be stretched over the seal holder (21) and pushed into place.

 

Ah, a ring, remember that now, I was mixing it up with another vehicle that used a cork strip. Other very important point to add, as well as aligning the housing with the two dowels, it to ensure the two parts of the tracta knuckles engage correctly.

[Diana and Jackie]

We cut the seal, smothered it in grease and inserted it - unfortunately before all this the housing came out too far! and it was an aweful job to get to get the tracta joint and the housing back in, as well as lining up the dowels.

 

It was obvious that someone has goo'd up the large O ring so that the housing could not possible move at all - clearly not inderstanding how it all worked

 

If they had used an O ring on the outside cannot see why they did not use one internally.

 

For those nonplussed by it all. Attached a photo showing a sdcrewdriver pointing to the cork seal, The O ring fits in front of the cork seal towards the outside of the vehicle

D&J

 

 

 

 

 

Ah, a ring, remember that now, I was mixing it up with another vehicle that used a cork strip. Other very important point to add, as well as aligning the housing with the two dowels, it to ensure the two parts of the tracta knuckles engage correctly.