Diana and Jackie Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Hi, After spending all aftenoon removing the offside mudguard and suspension spring we're now stuck at getting the spring seat out. The pin holding the seat is seized solid, and we cannot get the control link pins out either. If the suspension is jacked up (with the suspenson spring removed) it stays there! so we had to put the wheel on and jump on it till it drops. Thoughts are using a grease gun inject diesel oil into the suspenson spring pin, but we suspect the pin is seized to the spacer that runs through the shock absorber base. Also using an air hammer to knock the pin out maybe Any ideas on how to get the pin out are very welcome. D&J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 what has been the reason for tearing the suspension down in the begining? can you post picture as Im away from my manuals etc may be able to advise if I see something R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 HI Robin, Sorry for slow reply. We're renewing the mudguards. When its jacked up its always creaked from the back end. When we took off the mudguard we realised the shoock absorber wouldnt pivot, we then realised that the suspension spring seat also had a problem pivoting. The seat and shock absorber fit over a metal sleeve, the sleeve in turn fits over the pivot. The bad design allows the pivot to be greased each end (the pivot swivels in brass or bronze bushesin the upper wishbone). What the lubrication system does not do is lubricate the sleeve or the seat/shock absorber base We've taken advice from experts and if it will not free after heating preferably with oxy-acetylene and a cold bucket of water then its not going to. The solution of course would have been to grease it with copper grease in the first place. There's a 50 ton press in work so the next plan is get the suspension off and try to press the pin out. We did finally get the shock absorber to rock back and fro, which is a start. It would have helped if the people who had the ferret before us had used a grease gun. However our experience is that the only grease gun for this job is a continuous flow air grease gun of good quality, tried the cheap junk off ebay and thats a waste of time. Tip for anyone buying a ferret ....jack it up, if it creaks then you may have a suspension pivot problem - a big one! D&J what has been the reason for tearing the suspension down in the begining? can you post picture as Im away from my manuals etc may be able to advise if I see something R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robin craig Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 Ah hah, I can clearly see the problem . . . . . . well not quite. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griff66 Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 (edited) mine use to creak rear r/h side over about 2 months jacked it up pump grease in jack up. pump grease in ad nauseam drive it over rough ground grease again jack up grease again fitted older style grease nipple took nipple out poked in hole with locking wire sprayed in degreaser, refit nipple finally had to get ferret to place with airdriven grease gun siezed pivot pin was lwr one next to hull. Edited September 22, 2011 by griff66 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diana and Jackie Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Agree, An air operated grease gun is essential. The greasing points are badly placed, they rely on grease going down the centre of a pivot pin and then through a hole to the outside of the pin, along the gap between the pin and its pivots bearing. Its all too easy to think when you see grease coming out one side that the pivot is greased when it should come out of both sides. Obviously if the hole in the middle gets clogged (with old grease or dirt) or similarly one side of the pivot bearing its doubtful whether a hand operated gun will clear it. I've even tried a tool for clearing blocked grease nipples which you fill with oil and hit with an hammer and that was useless too. Best success was with a blowlamp on the joint followed by an air operated grease gun. D&J mine use to creak rear r/h side over about 2 months jacked it up pump grease in jack up. pump grease in ad nauseam drive it over rough ground grease again jack up grease again fitted older style grease nipple took nipple out poked in hole with locking wire sprayed in degreaser, refit nipple finally had to get ferret to place with airdriven grease gun siezed pivot pin was lwr one next to hull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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