Humber Pig temperature question

[Big Dan]

Hi Guys,

Just got my Pig running and took it for my first couple of drives - awesome! It was smooth, started on the button, gear change good, went straight - even stopped! I`ll pop a video on here soon.

 

Couple of questions:

 

1. When started from cold, the temperature gauge immediatly goes up to the middle of the gauge, then, after a couple of minutes progresses towards the end of the gauge. I checked the engine at this point and it was what I would describe as "running temp hot" not "OMG its off the gauge hot" - when cold I checked the fluids and all is good, fresh fluid with plenty of anti-freeze. Is this a case of "they do that" or is a shot sensor/gauge?

 

2. Bonnet catches - the little twiddly catches that hold the bonnet down are seized solid - any ideas?

 

Thanks, Dan.

 

PS - May have a lead on a guy who claims to have a very famous Pig rotting in his yard - I`m trying to find out details/reg - I suspect it may be the faked RUC "fire bombed" Pig though I can`t be sure - I`ll keep you all posted - one Pig is never enough!!!!!

[fv1609]

Dan, once it is fully warmed it should read no more than 180 deg F. If it is increasing beyond that the sensor is failing or the connections to it increasing in resistance as something warms up.

 

I think at room temperature the resistance of the sensor is something like 200 ohms. If it goes open circuit or the lead/plug fails then the meter reading will go to maximum. So start prodding around with an ohmeter esp when it is reading high.

 

Those catches need freeing up with WD40 or if that doesn't work some heat from gas of some sort. It is just a sort of rectangular block of steel tensioned by a lever spring. They are quite cheap to buy if all else fails.

 

There was a fake RUC flying Pig that did the rounds on ebay a few years ago. That is now owned by a member of the forum in Portsmouth. So intrigued by this one you have heard about. Sadly the term "ex-RUC" in Pigs is used with the same enthusiasm to describe some Land Rovers which are said to be "ex-SAS";)

[Niels v]

Sorry for high jacking, My Champs temp gauge ( I think its the same system as on the pig) goes to max when I turn the igintion on, does that mean that a lead or plug has broken? or what does open circuit mean.

again sorry

[fv1609]

Sorry for high jacking, My Champs temp gauge ( I think its the same system as on the pig) goes to max when I turn the igintion on, does that mean that a lead or plug has broken? or what does open circuit mean.

again sorry

Neils you are correct it is the same. If it goes to maximum it means a wire, connection, plug or the sensor has failed & not forming a complete circuit or can be described as an "open circuit".

[Niels v]

alright thanks I will try to trace the wires to see if there is a loose connection. If it isnt a loose wire is it possible to get replacement sensors or is it the whole instrument that needs to be replaced?

[fv1609]

You can get replacement sensors. As you turn on the ignition your meter needle is going hard over to the maximum temperature suggests that is ok.

 

Just be careful when you unscrew the collar to release the 2-pin plug on the sensor, it is very easy to undo the connect itself & rip the wires to the pins. Just check nobody before has done that & the wires are not shredded & intermittent.

Edited June 29, 2011 by fv1609

[griff66]

also if running very hot check valve on top of rad is working properly

[Big Dan]

Drove the Pig again this weekend and it overheated - plenty of steam and water from around the filler neck. Once cool I checked the seal and neck - the neck was very knocked around and no way would it seal - so I flattened the face off with some percussive maintenance, re-filled the coolant and brought it up to temperature with the cap off - the thermostat opened nicely and temperature held niceley at around 160f. I popped the cap back on and left it running - all was good until after about 3 further minutes the idle revs increased to 1500 then the engine shut down! - The temeperature was fine - no overheating. The engine would not restart - it would for the odd second but not for any longer - my thinking is fuel - any ideas?

 

Thanks, Dan.

[griff66]

with eng cold ign on temp gauge should register ambient temp, normal running temp about 180 at idle ,well is on a b60 engine ! now will engine hand crank? if so top up levels and try starting it again ,with coolant system all correct thermostat should start to open at 170 ish if it goes above whilst out and about 195f your coolant system is not pressurizing correctly

Edited July 4, 2011 by griff66

[Big Dan]

Getting somewhere now!

 

1. The gauge and cooling system is fine - the rad cap has no plunger so system won`t pressurise and steam escapes very easily - the gauge reads correctly - human error and a bit of over caution.

 

2. Engine stopped due to air in the fuel lines - I did prime the carb and it all worked fine for about half an hour - but loads of air in the system ended up starving the carb - cracking the fuel line nut, priming the line then tightening and re-priming the card had it going a treat!

 

3. Brakes needed loads of fluid, bleeding, the pedal return spring fitted and seized links oilong and freeing - now they actually work rather well - much better than expected!

 

4. Third hatch in roof confrimed as "Holy" dome not a gun mount:( - my friendly ex Reme Sargeant confirmed from looking at mountings showing on the inside of the roof that it was a dome - he had fitted a both dome and Ferret turrets in period and mine was the former.

 

Overall I am amazed at how well it drives - sure its a bit weighty on parking steering and double-clutching is a pain but the rebuilt engine and box are smooth and precise, the brakes make me want to wear a seatbelt to keep me in the seat and the beast drives really well - a big thumbs up! I wish I could get it to Beltring but work is just to darn busy to let me get it there!

 

As ever, a few more jobs to be done - not least replacing a handfull of hi-pressure nipples etc.

 

Two things:

 

1. Dissengaging 4wd - I know this is meant to be done automatically when coming out of first - my 4wd lever does not move when going in or out of first (though it does press against the gear stick in first) - does this mean its stuck in 4wd? Not a bad thing as far as I`m concerned as its will help presserve the rear axle.

 

2. A longshot - Does anyone live near Adam the former owner down in the South West and might be heading to Beltring? Adam has a spare wheel and tyre for me but its proving a real pain to retrieve it - 3 abborted collections so far! I`d be happy to pay transport costs if anyone is headed to War & Peace and could pick it up - like I sais, long shot!

 

Thanks, Dan.

[fv1609]

1. Dissengaging 4wd - I know this is meant to be done automatically when coming out of first - my 4wd lever does not move when going in or out of first (though it does press against the gear stick in first) - does this mean its stuck in 4wd? Not a bad thing as far as I`m concerned as its will help presserve the rear axle.

 

Dan well done on the progress in general.

 

In a Mk 1 you have to disengage 4WD manually. But I don't know do you have a Mk 2? If so there should be a spring loaded device to eject it out of 4WD when you go into second, like this?

 

[Big Dan]

Ah, now thats a clear picture - yep, mine is exactly like that - except that the on in the picture looks like the springed actuator id out a lot further in neutral than mine - could be stuck. When engaging/dissengaging are there clonks etc. to listen out for as, say, a Landy engaging diff lock?

 

Thanks, Dan.

[fv1609]

Dan yes the plunger could be stuck. When you engage 1st you should find yourself compressing the plunger & "loading" the ready to spring out when you move into 2nd.

 

But if it is stuck as you drive along in 1st you should be able to manually lift the FWD lever from being 30 degrees or so down up to horizontal, just as one would in a Mk 1.

 

However as I move off in my Mk 1 in 1st sometimes the 4WD lever will not always lift up but above 5 mph you should be able to move it. There should be no dramatic thuds etc to tell you that it has come out of 4WD. If you ever get a thud from behind you as you release the clutch it is a sign that the 2 bolts on the torque reaction bracket on the transfer box are loose.