haybaggerman Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Hi All Saraceniers I have found a leak on the pipe in the below photo, on the front offside wheelstation. I'm assuming its the same as the ferret fuel pipe which I have in stock e.g. 5/16ths. Its hard to tell because it is coroded and I don't want to take it off till I know I've got a replacement in stock. Cheers Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyroo Posted June 4, 2010 Share Posted June 4, 2010 Banisters should be able to help. See thread http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?18951-Banisters http://www.milweb.net/go/banister/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montie Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hi Paul, That brake pipe looks to be sitting in an "interesting" position! You waited this long, wasn't it overhauled? :cool2: Good luck with it! Monty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hi All Saraceniers I have found a leak on the pipe in the below photo, on the front offside wheelstation. I'm assuming its the same as the ferret fuel pipe which I have in stock e.g. 5/16ths. Its hard to tell because it is coroded and I don't want to take it off till I know I've got a replacement in stock. Cheers Paul Hydraulic type pipes are made with different materials, to give resistance to specific chemical attack (solvent fuel, mineral oils, synthetic oils, brake fluids), and fuel pipe should not be interchanged with a hose for, say, brake fluid. Fuel lines are not constructed to withstand the pressures found within brake and hydraulic lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Hi, Oily here, I had one of those leak too. Depresurise the system, by pressing brake pedal several times with engine off and handbrake on. Remove leaky pipe, only minimal amount of oil should leak out,...either take pipe to local Hydraulic Hose specialist, -my local one is PIRTEK, (very reasonable, and very efficient), explain carefully what it is from and what the pressure rating is (off the top of my head, I think it's 1260lbs/sq/in), and they'll make up a new one for about £10-15, or call them out, and they'll make it for you on site, with a call out fee...... depending on how much oil has leaked, it'd be advisable to bleed that brake actuator.....:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haybaggerman Posted June 5, 2010 Author Share Posted June 5, 2010 (edited) Doh! I meant to say ferret BRAKE pipe, not fuel pipe. Is it the same as 5/16th copper brake pipe. It certainly looks the same, I'll strip it down soon and find out. Cheers Paul Thanks for the info Oily. Just thought that I could do a quick repair by flaring 5/16th copper pipe. I'll definitely let the pressure off first now though, cheers. How are your issues proceeding? Not engine out time I hope Edited June 5, 2010 by haybaggerman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antarmike Posted June 5, 2010 Share Posted June 5, 2010 Doh! I meant to say ferret BRAKE pipe, not fuel pipe. Is it the same as 5/16th copper brake pipe. It certainly looks the same, I'll strip it down soon and find out. Cheers Paul PS If let the pressure off the system as in the manual it should stop dripping oil alot sooner shouldn't it Nay problem, my misunderstanding...and the photoisn't that cleare what I am looking at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haybaggerman Posted June 14, 2010 Author Share Posted June 14, 2010 All sorted, new pipe (5/16ths) flared and fitted. Next, exhaust manifold, how hard can it be................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted June 14, 2010 Share Posted June 14, 2010 ...exhaust manifold...awkward to remove, as whole of n/s footwell needs unbolting for access to manifold nuts! I got mine off ok, and brazed the cracked sections with great success... let me know if you have any problems.... oh and I fitted new stainless exhaust 'bellows' clamps, as the originals had rusted to tin-foil thickness!:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haybaggerman Posted June 15, 2010 Author Share Posted June 15, 2010 Hmmm. thought you might say that. Each chapter of the manual should start with step 1... remove everything anyway, the issue is a crack on the joint halfway between the engine and hull. I see it has been welded before. Are new parts still available as there is a hole in the silencer too. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted June 15, 2010 Share Posted June 15, 2010 there may be some new bits kicking about, but a welded repair on a cast manifold will never last long, hence the brazing technique, as it's something to do with the molecules of iron/steel in the casting not adhereing to the 'melted' molecules present in a weld repair. Molten brass, is a lot better when repairing a crack in cast steel/iron, as it 'flows' and is liquid longer than molten steel welding wire/rod. My manifold had two of the bolt-holes on the square shaped flanges broken away and cracked, I suspect where yours is damaged...- where the two seperate manifold halves join onto the part pointing towards the hull. As for the silencer, I had to weld a small patch onto mine as well,.... and it's still going strong nearly a 1000miles later, no leaks, or fresh cracks....:-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haybaggerman Posted June 15, 2010 Author Share Posted June 15, 2010 Hi Oily Thanks for the advice, I'll look into it. Does your heat shield above the manifold reach right across the entire width of the engine, I'm thinking I might be missing a bit as it covers only one half and leaves the HT leads exposed to heat. Cheers Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 heatshield goes full width!..... yours is missing some..... if you look in yellow pages/Google a Gasket manufacturer, you ought to be able to obtain some suitable material to fashion a new one, or some heat reflective material used by kit-car and race car builders, try motorsport part suppliers 'Demon Tweeks'...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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