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stolly 2


paulob1

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not a restoration but a modiication into an off road toy, reducing as much weight as I can and making her as off roady as i can...more to come...

 

Are you going to swap the tyres or run a cutter through them?

Bargrips aren't renowned for their grip!

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they are going to become russian ural 14/20's bit bigger and i will have to cut the body work under the cab a bit to accomodate....so the bar grips are on their way out...I am hoping that with the reduced weight will make sure the bevel boxes dont crash on me...although tractor joint wear could be an issue...

 

anyway with her coming in at around 5 tons about 3 tons less than normal i am hoping she will fly along and have enough grunt to takle most hills and muddy bogs...shes a bit big to follw a landy but she should be okay on most routes on slab common for instance...

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they are going to become russian ural 14/20's bit bigger and i will have to cut the body work under the cab a bit to accomodate....so the bar grips are on their way out...I am hoping that with the reduced weight will make sure the bevel boxes dont crash on me...although tractor joint wear could be an issue...

 

anyway with her coming in at around 5 tons about 3 tons less than normal i am hoping she will fly along and have enough grunt to takle most hills and muddy bogs...shes a bit big to follw a landy but she should be okay on most routes on slab common for instance...

 

You won't be going tooooo far without that 100 gallon petrol tank though even if you lose 3 tonnes !!!!

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going with standard russian off roaders...great tyres...

 

For off roading fuel consumption wont matter a great deal and to be fair with 3 tons less weight the fuel saving isnt the aim of the game, reducing wear and tear and making it a bit keener to go up the really steep hils is my aim, 240 bhp into 8 tons or 5 tons is a big difference...although I am not sure i can really lose 3 tons yet...the dowtys and dowty drives are heavy ish, I will remove as much as I can that isnt useful...may even remove the glass and just fit a big wire mesh cover...she will only be coming out in the nice weather...will look at what I get once she is stripped out...

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you are cutting the body work flush along the whole length what are your plans for the exhaust Paul - particularly

what passes for a Stalwarts silencer as that is in the O/S/ rear corner tower?

 

And if going for light weight - are you going to dump the hydraulic winch and related hydraulic valves and heavy

piping?? If you are - I know a potential home for the winch and it;s cable/riding shoe!! :cool2: :cool2:

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I can get you a load of them....just tell me how many you want...will be going out to collect them in a few weeks...they will cost 120 pounds each with free delivery to the UK...well to Guildford where you can either collect or have delivered...

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From a dim and distant memory, I seem to recall a great deal of consternation about the constant velocity joints on the Stalwart, and that trials showed that running the vehicle with little or no load increased the chances of failure, whilst running under full load was a better option. Apparently this was due to the shafts running in a " straighter" line when carrying a heavy load.

 

Also I believe that the lubricating oil was changed, but I do not know from what to what.

 

One further point is that the individual tyre circumference wear must also be taken into account, but again it is so long ago that the actual dimensions have been forgotten, but would be available in the relevant EMER.

 

All this may sound like a "killjoy" atitude, but if the Stolly is only going to be used for short runs it may, hopefully, be completely irrelevant.:undecided:

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From a dim and distant memory, I seem to recall a great deal of consternation about the constant velocity joints on the Stalwart, and that trials showed that running the vehicle with little or no load increased the chances of failure, whilst running under full load was a better option. Apparently this was due to the shafts running in a " straighter" line when carrying a heavy load.

 

 

 

Harry,

 

I have been watching this and agree with what you say about angle of drive lines. The more weight removed will increase the angle of the drives with every chance of wrecking a bevel box or tracta joint. I remember resetting the torsion bars on a Stalwart that was in service with a training unit and used unladen, because they had recuring problems, so I adjusted it to its loaded position.

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The recommendation is to lower the ride height to the laden position to relieve the transmission - mine has been done like this. Reduces suspension travel but not so that it would be noticeable unladen.

 

The oil in the wheel stations (Mk 1 or central lube system (Mk2) is OEP-220 or the civilian equivalent, an 80W/90 GL4 gear oil. Richard N. the Stalwart guru told me the SSI (quoted below) recommended the addition of OX-320 - or Achesons "OilDag" - to the wheel stations and lube system thus:

 

The central lube tank should be initially filled with 19 pints (Imp) of OEP220 and 1 1/3 pints of OX320. (This assumes the hubs have been pre-loaded with 5 1/3rd pints of OEP220 and OX320)

 

It then has the BBs filled by removing their level plugs and waiting up to 2 hrs for oil to appear, then a further 12 pints of OEP220 is introduced into the central lube and the vehicle run until the level stabilises. Topping-up is done with OEP220 only.

 

However it's not done so very often as the last price I saw on the web for the stuff was £200 for a 20 Kg tin.:wow:

 

Tyre matching - as with the other in the FV-6xx series - is a case of no more than 2" MAX difference between largest dia and smallest dia tyres with the largest on the front wheels.

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