Tom M

I’ve also got a first contract ML, frame number 1156, C5147158. The switch panel still has the original service brown. I had the frame powder coated, the closest they could match was RAL 8028. My brother used to own, and restored, frame number 728. Not sure who owns it now.

Item number 133351879350 - what appears to be a water bowser tank for a Bedford MW.

I like the look of matt paint, but was advised against it on many occasions as it marks too easily, also been advised that most matting agents are porous (unless you get a more expensive high quality one) and therefore don't protect the substrate from water ingress and corrosion. I painted one of my WD/COs in matt paint, it looked good put as soon as you touched it, it would mark. I had my last bikes powder coated in satin and the finish is hard as nails. Not 100% authentic, ut it should last longer and it's easier to was the dirt off.

Wow! Another Class A restoration from the Pier workshop. A question Ron, how do you get the tank transfers to adhere properly on the matt paint? I tried on a previous bike and they just flaked off.

Hello Paul, I also have a James ML which I am currently restoring. Original parts are quite difficult to find, but there are some very good reproduction tinware parts being made by Terry Roberts (https://www.heritagemotorworks.co.uk/)., e.g. tool boxes front brake rods, mudguards, exhausts etc. Many of the tools for the tool kit are marked with the ML part numbers and hence can be found easily on ebay. I am still looking for an original Dunlop WM0 - 19 wheel rim to complete my bike. They are extremely hard to find! You may find more success if you post your topic in the motorcycle section of the forum. There are some very knowledgeable and helpful members there. Regards, Tom

Hello John, I would be interested in bringing the Carrier to Lacock. I need to look at transport as driving it would mean driving along the A4 potentially. I might see if I can set up a convoy and bring down a 25pdr gun set and quad at the same time. I have a NOVA for my Carrier, as I imported it from New Zealand, is there any chance I can get the age verification done?

Hello John, thanks for the info. I’ll watch the situation with keen interest. Normandy might have to wait for next year. Can you tell us what the issue is with DVLA? I look forward to showing you around the carrier when the time comes. It’s not far from you, near Larkhill.

Hello all, I want to get my Carrier road registered so I can track it to local events and drive it around Normandy in June, but the MVT age verification service seems to have stopped. Does anyone know how else I can get my 1942 Ford Universal Carrier verified for an age related number? Thanks, Tom

I saw this final drive sprocket outside a local Army Surplus shop, unfortunately they were closed at the time. It looks like it's from a British cruiser tank. Can anyone identify it? I will find out how much it is if anyone is interested.

Have you tried contacting the REME Museum in the UK? If they have a copy I may be able to photocopy it for you, as I am only down the road.

Hi Jon, I’m down at Lyneham, so not far from you if you ever need any help with anything. As an aside, I’m helping to organize a wartime event at the REME museum on the 11th May if you want a practice ride out for the day. Good luck with Normandy.

Stuart bray also has rubber covered speedo cables. He advertises on Milweb.

I’ve got a 10 cwt trailer, an early one which had the early hitch and handles on the central spar, but I’m in Wiltshire. Might be a bit far from SE London, but you’re welcome to measure it all the same.

Does anyone have any recommendations for breakdown cover? I am thinking that I can lessen the feeling of anxiety I get whenever my Jeep engine falters, or refuses to start by getting breakdown cover, and I may actually start to use it more. Up to now I’ve always been able to repair stuff on the roadside, but I don’t think my luck will last forever, and that’s probably also making me reluctant to take it very far. I generally drive a Jeep & trailer, but also want to take my Carrier out on the occasional organised road run around Salisbury Plain (weighs less than 3.5t, but can’t really class it as a car!). Does anyone have any experience of provider’s reactions to military vehicles, good or bad before I go with the RAC or AA? Many thanks.

No connection to the seller, but just found a company in the UK who have NOS Sherman battery master switches, for anyone that needs one. The company is ‘the green spark plug company’, look under the battery switch section.

Hello Ron, the 5SW looks great. Your work spurred me into finishing my WD/CO. Have you replated the handlebar controls? If so who did you use? I’ve struggled to find someone who can recreate that wartime finish. Keep up the good work.

Hi, I made the loom up for my WD/C from the wiring diagram using standard black cable. I think you can buy the coloured sleeves which went on the end of the cables as per the original looms. I don't know who supplies them though. I did originally buy a loom from a supplier, but the wires were all bright colours and didn't look right.

Hello Mark, Welcome to Military Vehicle ownership. I hope you enjoy your Jeep. I own a ‘44 Willy’s MB. Do your research on parts suppliers before investing too much money in spares. There are plenty of suppliers out there, but not all parts are the best quality. Find yourself a trusted supplier and develop a relationship with them, as they’re an excellent source of valuable advice as well. I personally use Dallas Autos as they are reasonably local to me. They can be a bit more expensive than other suppliers I hear, but the the parts are always good quality and they have helped me out with advice several times. They once drove out 40 mins from their workshop, when I broke down in my old TR6 after visiting them, and even picked me up a coil from a local parts place on the way. Where are you based and who did you serve with?

Thanks gents, I am assuming it is a very basic rectangular tarp for covering the vehicle when it was sat on the tank park. Does anyone have a picture of an original so I can see the number and position of the eyelets?

I am about to receive my '42 Mk1* Carrier. There are a couple of really good wartime British Pathe instructional videos on youtube, which seem to show the Mk1 Carrier with a canvas cover, stowed on the back left corner, as well as a Camouflage Net. Can anyone confirm if the Mk1 carrier came with a canvas cover as part of its CES, and if so what dimensions the cover is? Does anyone know where I can get a reproduction cover? Many thanks,

Thanks for all the advice guys. After going through through the manual and rebuild instructions again, I realised that (as Phil.c says) I hadn't set the meter rod correctly. I had just refitted it without setting it at all - one of the down sides of working on ones Jeep until the early hours of the morning for three nights in a row! After setting it correctly it started on the button and ran perfectly. I have just spent a weekend on Salisbury Plain and it didn't break down! It was difficult to start, but I am guessing this is probably down to me not getting the choke settings correct, and either flooding or running the battery down from frequent starting.

Thank you Pete, I hadn't considered it that it might be something after the carb. I will check the manifold tonight. I've checked the pump, and fuel filter and all seems ok.

Can anyone give me some advice on a Jeep fuelling problem? I decided to rebuild my '44 Willys MB carb this week, as I suspected fuel starvation; I took the Jeep out a few weeks ago in the really cold weather and it kept cutting out at idle, but would start again with some throttle and choke, eventually I got home and it stalled and wouldn't start again. I got it to start a few weeks later, but it would only run with the choke and would cut out really easily when the throttle was opened. I have just rebuilt the carb using a kit I had from Dallas Autos, and put it back on the engine, but it was difficult to start and still won't run without choke, even when warm . If I open the throttle it dies straight away. It sounds like a fuel blockage, but I don't know where to start. Does anyone have any ideas on the likes culprit? I don't want to have to strip the carb down completely all over again if I don't have to, as I don't have a lot of time. I am trying to get the Jeep ready for an event on Salisbury plain this weekend and it is refusing to cooperate! Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks gents, The seller is now sorting out insurance from the shipping agent. The Carrier should arrive in April. Just my tracked vehicle licence to do now.