Lauren Child

Is it on precautions for cookery, or for washing up afterwards?

Is C valid causes for the issue of a high speed permit / priority landing clearance?

Is C for dysentery ?

C - Mine clearance ah doesn't fit with the later clues....

I think the new owners look like a very professional outfit and I'm sure they'll provide a good home. I'm looking forward to visiting when they're up and running at the new location - it sounds like it'll be much more accessible. It's a shame that it's so far from the current volunteers though. Looking at the website they have a good eye for historical vehicles, so I think they'll make good decisions on what to keep and what needs to go. It's unfortunate to see anything go for sale, but there it is, the collection needs to be preserved. The alternative is that it all gets split up as I don't think anyone could take on a collection of that size in one go (though I know a few wouldn't mind trying ) It's an important reminder to all of us to plan for what happens to our various toys, vehicles and artifacts when we go. I'm reminded of that other thread talking about wills and legacies.

I understand they are keeping all of the ww2 dated vehicles and anything historically significant. There are a number of duplicates and/or common vehicles in the collection, which would probably be the ones they'd start selling.

I was there last weekend and they'd just started arranging vehicles for transport (a couple had gone already). It's a real shame they are not keeping the entire collection together, but at least the important bits of it get preserved.

You can see MTP46 4A here - http://bcoy1cpb.pacdat.net/mtp_46_pt_4a_painting_mt.htm There looks to be rather more to it though. The "Warpaint" series of books are good, as are Mike Conniford's books (though try to buy them directly from him as he updates them with new information and corrections). He used to have a website but I can't find it now - if you do a search you should find his forum account and you can email/PM him.

Ultimately, the vehicle needs to be preserved. If it's not painted it will corrode. My WOT2 has a lot of patina of age, which looks great, but is giving way to the rust monster in places and I'd rather keep the vehicle than the paintwork. I'd go for painting the vehicle, but keeping any damage as part of it's history, and as others have said take lots of photos / notes. The only time I wouldn't is for special markings like nose art. Did anyone see the WC54 on milweb a while back with a cartoon painted on the star? Given that it looks like original paint which is a rarity, you could preserve some of the original colour in a protected and sheltered location like inside the bonnet panel. That way you can keep an eye on it for corrosion and it should be quite warm/dry. It's also un-faded by sunlight. That would add to the value and interest without risking the vehicle's future.

Rolls Royce Heritage Trust publish a book on the development of the Meteor engine/Cromwell tank that covers a lot of the personalities involved. (HS35 from here - http://www.rolls-royce.com/about/heritage/publications/ ) - lol great minds, I see Rick has posted the same one while I've been typing. On a related note, you may also be interested in "In the wake of the tank" and "Our Armoured Forces" both by Giffard "Q" Martel which are contemporary accounts of armoured warfare development from ww1 and ww2 respectively. He saw tanks all the way through from first use to the end of ww2. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q_Martel

Ah thanks!

How are you getting the high resolution photographs? When I zoom in all I get is a pixelated mess.

I'm in the Cambridgeshire area. Let me know if nobody else claims them and I may have a go.

It looks like you can get foam ones that are safe to use on electrics (safe for the person at any rate - I imagine the device is pretty well shagged, but then it was on fire). You need to be selective though. Interestingly the ones I picked up aren't, so I need to be careful. See here - http://www.fireservice.co.uk/safety/extinguishers

Just to pass on some advice I got when I started looking. I'm paraphrasing so I hope I've got it right. Foam is good for petrols, oils, etc. but you don't get a lot in the can (only a couple of seconds of squirt). Powder goes a lot further. It does corrode metal, but frankly if you are at the point of using it, it's better to have it around. Needless to say, most important thing is to get help on it's way, so phone the fire brigade. I got a couple of small foam's for the vehicle and a big ass powder one for a POSTOSEH* moment at home/garage. (*Possibility Of Sorting Things Our Sensibly Event Horizon)

There are safe gasses that are similar to halon, but given the presence of liquid fuel as the most likely source of fire I went for a couple of foam extinguishers.

Your best bet is to chat to them. I had a tour behind the scenes a while back, and at that time they were looking to make some vehicle indexes or binders with good examples of particular types (I wonder if that's the KID series that Robert mentions?). Also, the collection is much larger than just what is in London. If you want something particular, you need to give them a heads up so that they can transfer the right files to the reading room. They may be able to give you a bit of advice on what to transfer. Alternatively, if anyone is up for helping to sort and index the collection, I'm sure they'd love to hear from volunteers. It's a mammoth task and who knows what is in there waiting to see the light of day. There must be allsorts in there waiting to see the light of day.

Why think of just Kent, we could borrow an LST and go somewhere exotic.

That looks very much like the inside of the ww1 hangers at Duxford. On a quick comparison it's not Duxford. The windows are slightly different and the doors aren't zig-zagged.

Hi again Engine oil is 30 HD (SAE 30). Also used on the distributor shaft (through a little wart-like cap on the side) and the various rods joints and pins using a squirty oil can. UJ, wheel hubs and drive shaft bearing take #2 grease. Gearbox, diff, and almost everything else on the truck takes C.600 (SAE 140). They did change to Hypoid 90 for the gearbox late in the war, but given the differences in Hypoid (EP additive) oil between now and then, and the potential problem of corrosion if you get it wrong, I've been staying clear. Prod me next week and I'll scan in the lubrication chart. Morris Golden Film SAE30 and AG140 should be a good bet

Welcome along. Be warned, once bitten this hobby grows and grows. So when are you getting the half track to go with it?

Welcome along!

It could have been a mock up for some sort of project. Fake photo, but not necessarily a fake artifact.

I'd say its a fake as the shadows on the plane look like they're going in a different direction to those of the thinks in front of the hanger.

I think something's gone a bit wrong - the link on my old post has got corrupted (there are some extra characters at the end of it). Here's the link again http://archive.iwm.org.uk/upload/pdf/famhist-army2010-04.pdf