ruxy

================ What you state is essentially correct. However a "engine laquer" is heat and oil resistant. Remember the old school cast-iron radiators - they certainly did not slap any engine paint / machinery enamel on them. Dulux at best Lol , the problem being that Dulux , B&Q etc. are a cheap alkyd - that colour changes depending on ambient sunlight , more likely to fade out - loose its gloss and then chalk. At that stage - it will not stand up well to heat or oil contamination. A Litre of Tractor Enamel / Machinery enamel or Engine Enamel will cost you twice the ££ , will not have the gloss af a traditional Coach Paint (there is less varnish content) - also you would never need the possibility of a final clear over-varnish. The additional £££ cost is because you are buying the equiv. of a automotive alkyd such as a Transport PU (more or less the same but reinforced with PU) , a transport PU would normally be used for just the cab livery because it costs so much, the rest a cheaper grade would be used. I have some wheel-sets done with both Berger & Parsons (Dagenham) Transport PU - still with a shine & no chalking - 30 yers + since painted. The other additional feature for your money £££ , longer life, longer gloss retention , ability to withstand wash-down chemicals and abrasion, it will stand up to oil & fuel spills as well as a chassis paint (when dry through). So - yes , depends on if it is your own vehicle or for a quick re-sale , possibly your own - you don't wish to re-paint your engine so often.

The simple fact is that being the only DO 17 , the RAF Museum had to do it regardless of the cost . The money came in and the major part of being physically saved is complete, conservation / condition monitoring will always be ongoing - more so because it is the only DO 17. Again , to harp on - it is the only DO 17 and that will make it a major museum attraction , a national attraction for foreign tourists. The fact that UK is now a nation of greater museum attractions and at the same time a lesser manufacturing nation is a moot point. A price was placed on this historical artifact and it will never be too great now or in the future. Would the Germans have carried out a similar project in the Baltic - most probably.

The 109" Land Rover - is a bit suspect. Deep Sill to end of S2A Rover 11 (early version) - yes, but with front external fuel fill !! + the pick-up truck cab. I know the Royal Marines had some 109" with truck cab, but ISTR these were in fact S3 basic civilian models that were intended for training purposes, however I may be wrong - possibly they were S2A.

Yes, it is in fact 55AM68 1972/73 You need to contact the Curator at the RAF Museum. RAF trucks , history from my experience does not reveal a lot , just a list of bases.

Know nothing about pigs , will await expert opinion - or was it Clive's LoL

---------- This was a tester on a cheap , obsolete Bromwade Compair "Automotive" range , maide in Taiwan , sort of copy of a Trelawney. I normally use expensive Swiss manuf. anti-vibe scalers. Crusty rust but under hard on ,but also some sound paint that was harder to bray off , I allowed 15 min per wheel inc. a quick go over with P40 production paint. Performance almost as good as a true industrial scaler , for 1.1/2 hours work - I would prefer to do it that way as setting up for shot-blasting & clean up after would take longer. My moto - never blast if you can needle. btw , don't worry about rubber tyres the needles just bounce off (same as shot) LoL

Some primers are intended to key on better to a "flash rust" or a bit of mixed surfaces - rather than white metal, probably you should enquire about this.

Title Re: Paint removal - needle gunning -------------- A needle gun is useless for removal of good sound paint, you are expecting too much off the wrong tool. You need rust scale between sound metal and the paint. You can with chisel points clean to SIS Sa2.5 / 3 (mechanical means - because the standard allows the option) BUT it is obviously going to take much much longer. Normally you would stop short and sweep blast - if you require white metal. With the right primer - you hardly need obtain white metal standard in any case , you would aim for "near white metal" - abt. Sa2.5 / 3 . Blast cleaning rust is far quicker than blast cleaning off sound paint, unless you have the very best gear available. Often a matter of interpretation - most often not in ideal place / circumstances.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-22721897

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2330258/Tank-sale-Nazi-war-tank-discovered-drug-dealers-garden-police-raid-auctioned-5-000.html

I know of 1 fatality because no precautions such as cage were used , abt. 1980. ==== According to ATS - Euromaster :- Our current experience is that we have 1 truck tyre explosion per 21,000 inflations. Using HSE's tolerability of risk model (HSE 1992) that is 'negligible'. ------------------ SOURCE. Our Approach to Safe Truck Tyre Inflation - Preston City Council http://www.preston.gov.uk/GetAsset.aspx?id... Our Cardinal Rules include truck tyre inflation and they outline the hierarchy for inflation: – In a tyre safety cage. – Bolted back onto a vehicle. – Restrained using ...

Possibly the premesis are subject of PUWER ??? http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1998/2306/contents/made The words "risk assessment" come to mind.. ,, because of course - nothing specific in HSE Publication HSG261 Purchasing a NEW cage , then one would consider they come under the "Machinery Directive" , BUT some may & some may not. Purchasing one NEW , then one would assume it would be "CE" marked , BUT that means little without close scrutiny of all documents to back up that claim of suitability for "CE" marking LoL (Declaration of Conformity AND Instructions in English language at minimum). Constructing own , then "design assessment" comes to mind and this could be very expensive. I doubt if there is any British Standards or E Conformity , DIN or anything. Buying used of unknown origin or known origin - that all the words preceding apply..

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/history/world-war-two/10067006/Visitors-flout-ban-on-wearing-Nazi-uniforms-to-WWII-event.html

DM (up-dated) http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2324672/Idiotic-pair-pick-unexploded-2ft-bombs-washed-ashore--sell-scrap-metal.html

Well ,, it goes to show , even on a Forum like this where you would expect a early agreement on positive identity - not so ! Clearly a need for warning notices to be observed , I just hope those concerned are soon identified - the police should be able to find some just cause for a appearance in a magistrates court ???

Could be electrical or mechanical. Could be dry & stiff belts on rusted Vee pulleys if it has stood a while. A pair of new cog belts will help in all respects & polish up the Vee pulley grooves a bit. User manuals state bearings are packed in grease XG271 on assembly and require no additional lubrications between major overhauls of the unit. The front bearing is bigger and a spl. by Prestolite / Leece Neville. However :- Seel Items 15 + 16 LoL , described as - aluminium washer & screw plug. First - what I suggest is - remove 15 + 16 , add a few drops of gear oil , if the noise reduces , then mix a slury of Ep90 & CV joint grease and get some in.

WW2 history has many facets, lottery cash does not come easy for projects. We now have the Google Blitz census map for London :- http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2243951/The-astonishing-interactive-map-EVERY-bomb-dropped-London-Blitz.html Depends on what you consider is WW2 history worthy of preservation. In NE where I live (S/W Co. Durham) there were quite a few incendary & oil bombs dropped - no trace today other than the odd IB casing in private hands, you see the photograph when a local owner takes it into a primary school history lesson. Myself - since teens - I have been interested where the HE bombs landed , info. often only available word of mouth Tthat generation are now dead) any trace left ? - not often , at best a deep water filled hole with a stock-proof fence around. ---- The house I have lived for the last 20 years , when digging the garden I kept picking up bits of metal , pondering the curved shape & ragged edges , muttering - no bombs dropped around here & kept chucking them in the beck LoL Then one day I came across this :- http://www.ne-diary.bpears.org.uk/ In particular :- Monday, 28th/Tuesday, 29th October 1940 N422 00.40 .. Co Durham.. Howden Bank.. One HE fell at Howden Bank leaving a large crater. No injuries - windows of the local Police Sergeant's house broken. I had a sinking feeling , my sons - I once heard refer to the private owned pair of semi up the hill as - the police Sergeants houses (because the locals still did) , also that they had swimmed in a deep pool that is fenced off . This hole is incorrectly described on post WW2 O.S. maps as a colliery reservoir ! So - here we have WW2 history that has looked after itself for the last 70 years at no cost , probably never be filled in . Possibly in 50 years time - may need a lottery grant for preservation as the last known WW2 bomb hole left in Co. Durham !

ISTR this was mentioned last year , now it seems - serious action. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2318808/Last-surviving-Second-World-War-Dornier-bomber-raised-watery-grave-70-years-biggest-recovery-kind.html

Generally - I would agree , you will get the die-hards who stick to SAE 30 in winter & SAE 40 in summer. It took Volkswagen until about 1977 until they officially approved multi-grades in air-cooled engines. btw - you still get twits who believe SAE 30HD is in fact 30 (in High Detergent form). ============== However the arguments still go on QUOTE. Modern dispersant additives keep combustion chamber contamination suspended in the lubricant, allowing full flow cartridge filters to remove it. Early oil filtration, usually in the form of a mesh gauze or strainer, is not efficient enough to remove this suspended material. Golden Film Motor Oils are low dispersant oils and allow the suspended matter to drop harmlessly into the sump. from :- http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/scripts/prodview.asp?idcat=114&idProduct=165 Remember how you remove the strainer on a VW Beetle & types, clean the bottom plate of fine grey debris (ground up metals) LoL , new plate / strainer gaskets & copper washers. A straight 30 or 40 weight , in theory may be better, although a more modern high detergent oil (into a already clean engine) should retain all the £rap that is removed in full at next sump drain.

The doors do look on that sort of scale , a bit big for a S1 Landie. ISTR a Forum member bragging he had the contract to open & shut them. Now who was it ??

Many thanks Ted for the photograph of 53AM69 , dated at 1972 - obviously the truck was brand new so the pic is datable abt. IMHO - that is a RAF BLUE grey tilt - and that would confirm at that period in time such a hood existed.

You should have no charge at tick-over , the cut-out disconects. When revs increase and the dynamo voltage is larger than the battery voltage (approx. 13 volts) = you should be charging. Whilst on a alternator 15 volt should be considered overcharge (regulator inoperative) - thus danger of fire. With a genny - you need to be looking for a terminal voltage of 16 volts at full charge. To get something into the battery at this state - you need at least 18 volts from the genny. With a accurate voltmeter , remove the battery float charge (leave headlamps on for 3 to 4 min) . A good indication is to raise the revs - when the genny voltage is about same as battery voltage ( that you now know) , the charge warning should go out. This would indicate the genny is healthy , if your battery is going flat - then there are several causes that should be investigated before blaming the genny. You would more or less have to disconect the battery leave it overnight . If the voltage is low in the morning - blame the battery. If not , then re-connect the battery - if it is low voltage the next morning then you have leakage to earth somewhere , involving isolation of circuits to eliminate - then final zero in to the fault.

Are you certain the securing retention plate has 3 qty. little screws (2BA x 1/4" long) are present tightened fully home . IIRC the Britpart cable drive end was triangular , not square or &/or too short to engage the drive ..

BRITPART brand speedo cables always were a problem at the gearbox end. So easy to copy the original exact & yet there were a few detail differences that caused lack of drive , possibly ones of more recent manufacture are better - they must have had loads back for warranty claim LoL

=================== Nice photograph - I have saved it. Not able to date the "AA" VRM just now. Looking at the truck rear X member , etc. - I would say a Rover Mk. 6 (S2 (prior to 1961 approx. ). The external fill - also indicates a S2 Contract , NOTE the petrol / diesel nozzel protection patch (PVC) stitched to the hood (as civilian). So civvy spec. hood construction BUT there would be no civvy type part No. for a colour of RAF Blue/Grey ..