ruxy

Malhotra manuf.

https://www.bigtyres.co.uk/6-00-16-6-ply-protector-landrover.html

The M201  Hotchkiss was factory fitted with a three block design - all on the same helix skew but alternate staggered ,  The idea of the M201 was 'home content' (France).  So - I would guess they were Michelin.  Later still Michelin introduced the XCL  , again 3 block in staggered pattern but on a shallow Vee.    ISTR the Kleber tyre was the 'Military  modified' (sometimes called NATO tyre , this was a staggered bar with central spine  BUT the bars had small sipes across,  this was a pattern used on the Land Rover  101" when in service.    Look at the Land Rover Lightweight thread presently running - the  6.00x16 is a block tread - the nearest available AFAIK to what you need , will have the correct speed/load Index. PR etc for a WW2 era style / weight of $eep.   As stated the Malhotra is Indian manufacture and is  £ cheap.  Strikes me they have obtained the moulds for the LASSA (Turkey)  OK-144 tyre.     Turkey AFAIK still manufacture their own Defender clones & use LASSA tyres - I have run these tyres and the compound was far superior to Far East imported copies of the Good Year Hi-Miller Extra Grip ,  also - I would say better tyre than a Extra Grip that was made in England.  The EG's made in Morocco were total rubbish.

£ cheap Indian  (Malhotra - seems they may have purchased the LASSA  OK-144 moulds ?  )  boots - but only in 6.00x16

https://www.bigtyres.co.uk/6-00-16-6-ply-protector-landrover.html

Fortunately I am able to pull out the Avon Commercial Tyre DATA books from April 1984 and October 1990.   btw   Both Dunlop and Firestone did their identical version of the Avon 'Traction Mileage'  -  I have some for reference.

The Tables are to ETRTO  ,  the Avon  7.50 was known as  Ranger Mk2 (it had two sipes instead of three) - in fact my Sankey WIDETRACK still is fitted with them.

Interesting - Avon did the Land Rover sizes in both 6PR and 8PR  (however the 6.00 was only in 6PR - tells a story)

Comparison of  6.00  ,  6.50,   7.00,  7.50

Overall dia.  (inch)     28.6"  29.2"  30.4"   31.6"

Unfortunately - the data does not indicate the weight of each size , BUT - I can tell you it is considerable.

I will quote the pressure (psi) and Graduated SINGLE axle loads - but just at 33 psi

2470 lb  .  2670 lb  .  3195 lb 

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The Ranger Mk.2  data only starts at  40 psi  =   SINGLE   @  3815 lbs

If you need to learn anything at all about LR tyres for Series and L'wt in particular - that needs to be absorbed and explains why I would never ever fit 750's to a L'wt.

So - I may as well give you the further "graduations" for the three smaller dia's on SINGLE but at 40 psi

2755 lb.  3000 lb   3570 lb

Basically - it goes like this - the bigger the rolling / stratic dia. & PR  , it takes more psi just to hold the heavier casing just held up.   To get all the benefits of best steering / suspension from tyres (that you need on L'wt 7 leaf HD's)  - you always choose the optimum section width & PR..

CAMAC  are Portugese remoulds , they come & go , mainly go - one of the reasons I believe is that they can't get the casings,

https://www.vintagetyres.com/shop/tyres/camac-4x4-cg110-700-16-113-112j

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They obviously made it worth while for Avon (one of the few UK based manufacturers)  to run of some.   ISTR that back in history - the 7.00x16 was only OE on  Series One  107"  inc. SW

https://www.vintagetyres.com/shop/tyres/avon-traction-mileage-700-16c-102-100l

51 minutes ago, LarryH57 said:

Thanks Ruxy. And the markings or serial number on the Lwt wheels? What is that?

Have a look for US imports for Jeep (early CJ types)  in 7.00x16 , these are often NDT bar-grip types but others are imported from US  , IIRC you don't need to change/remark your speedo head like with 7.50's .  The big plus is that the rolling dia. will only be abt. 1/2" more than 6.50's.

You should have 231601  branded rims (part No.)  - check all , yours will have a riveted nave plate , later welded type may have a different part number,  You will see the D trade mark = Dunlop branded and the offset.  If I were going for new Radial TUBELESS , then I would fit the rims introduced by Ford with the PUMA Defender, these have the safety hump that you hardly notice.  You would be taking punctures to a tyre depot in any case , not as if you are going abroad with spare tubes & a set of levers.  Nothing to stop you investing in a bench bead breaker if you are keen.   Most important make certain tubes are TR15 valve , you do't want TR13 with a Appaseal plastic bush.

I have a bit of a collection (stored in dark) of  205R16 by Semperit and Vredstein , snow tyres intended for the early Merc. G Wagen - I use these on 109"/Defender width rims.  Don't know what they fit now, the original 205R16 Michelin XM&S that was designed for Range Rover & Pirelli that followed were always good for Lightweight.  The newer  20580R16 tyres went a bit wider and are outside of the Lightweight 5'-0" width , also I can't think of any with the traditional block tread

You may need to arrange your own import & pay the £$ tax.   The firms that were importing seem to have stopped.  Possibly out of Europe with BREXIT , a better deal may come about on US imports  ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-New-6-50-16-STA-Super-Traxion-Traction-Mud-Pickup-Truck-Tire-LB134-/281819917324

ERRATA

There is a good reason for 6.50x16 on Lightweights , whilst  6.50x16 are OK for a civvy 88" /  88" CL , in theory you may be just squeaking it with a Lightweight. 

Should read  :-

There is a good reason for 6.50x16 on Lightweights , whilst  6.00x16 are OK for a civvy 88" /  88" CL , in theory you may be just squeaking it with a Lightweight, however most  X ply 6.00x16 I have seen don't.  Although some radials did - BUT you are not going to find them now.. 

There were a few  6.50x16 'grey imports' from USA ,  they are now arriving with CE.

Tube type  -  take a look at  STA Traxion  (USA made)

https://www.classictyrestore.com/en/650x16/632-classic-tyre-650x16-sta-traxion-.html

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There is a good reason for 6.50x16 on Lightweights , whilst  6.50x16 are OK for a civvy 88" /  88" CL , in theory you may be just squeaking it with a Lightweight.  The Lightweight Utility was never lighter than a 88" Basic Utility - check VIN plates on later vehicles.  User Handbooks  pre- VIN..   Kerbside max. gross - a Lightweight is the heavyweight & so you 'should' use 6.50 - that extra 1/2" on width take the extra load.

Myself - I don't like 7.50's  - that adds 2" to the rolling dia.  My choice was the original aspect ratio (IIRC 83)   on the original Range Rover (designed for)  Michelin or Pirelli but fitted to 109" rims (the overall width was just within the 5'-0" bodyline.

I have run LASSA  OK-144  (mede in Turkey)  far better rubber than The Deestone & other clones.  However they were not available in 6.50 , so I used 6.00 - they stopped importing them to UK.

Goodyear Extra Grip  mare in England  =  OK  , if they stated made in Morocco - they were total rubbish - the sidewalls cracked out very early.  Bit more to it than stirring carbon black into a mix of natural/synthetic rubber & throwing a few extras in.

39 minutes ago, fesm_ndt said:

yep the fire truck is from down that way..... go out Kalgoorlie way and 100 year old wrecks are rust free.... well unless mud is allowed to stay stuck in crevices

You know , when Solihull started their  "Born Again" project  - I understand they sourced some trucks from Oz. to get sound chassis - then started business privateers importing same to UK , that prior was more or less personal re-import.   I understand LR spotters were sourcing from Queensland - yet I would have expected the more humid atmosphere would have caused early 'perforation'  ?

32 minutes ago, fesm_ndt said:

Still more bolts..  i had delusions both would be off today..... power hack saw down the rusty front panel 😁 saved me 5 rusty rounded bolts

 

 

 

Australia & RUST  free   ?     I was once told by a farmer's daughter from Albany ,  not so &  it varies lots and all their land was SALT  ,  in any case you should never park above grass or vegetation because it creates on undersides a 'micro-climate' of damp  !  ?

Snow in Freemantle - that would be interesting , the last time I was there was 1970.  I remember late evening - lost on the outskirts , under a covered walkway , then a dust-cloud came down the street - it was just like a Wild West movie.  The only other thing I recall was admiring the architecture of Freemantle & Perth railway stations..

6 hours ago, fesm_ndt said:

What's snow?

Yep I thought the roof trusses look light but its not a home build its a shed suppliers method.  The uprights are 25x25mm and the trusses slot in at the top.

With all the purlins it was pretty rigid, the flimsiest part was the door structure.

Is  "sheddist" the term for persons with a healthy interest in such matters  ?

I have seen very similar , in fact almost identical construction of car-ports using  in the main 25 x 25 hollow box section (and have in mind a project).  I had expected a strong wind to just carry it off but with open sides it just escaped !

                    I jumped from  7' x 14'  sectional timber garage where the single truss is hardly  any stuff. to  15' x 24'  (40 yard square) ,  the timber £ for trusses goes through the roof  !

I think in UK   40 yard square must still be max. area for a "temporary" provided within curtilage , not in front of 'building-line' facing a main highway and abt. 15 feet min. from the dwelling.    Beyond the 40 yards squared  - then you are into all the permissions.

I still have a vague memory of trusses & working out what was a strut or tie,  use of beams/RSJ's on a simple span - moment of inertia & you got into trouble with lack of own stability beyond 28 feet.

Low slope pitch  but you don't get snow ?

Roof truss seems very slight for such a clear span , purlins seem ample.  Are the stanchions actually cast into the concrete floor slab or bolted down. Did they wobble with the sheeting removed. ? 

Must be a Oz. common build ?

34 minutes ago, LarryH57 said:

In that case the makers of 'Midway' the movie must have filmed or sourced 'UK' Jeeps for their movie! 

Possibly parts of film done @ Pinewood Studios  & they hired in locals ?

Works truck  !     -  you must live very near to Metz bridge   ??

On 7/31/2020 at 6:48 AM, oseveno said:

Hi everyone,

 I met a guy who told me that 40 years ago,  a sergeant found out that members of his platoon had checked out a vehicle in his name and took it home. After telling his superiors that he would get to the bottom of this,  he left to take back the vehicle. Once he recovered it, he decided to take it home instead.  There it sat in a field, under a cover hidden from the world until another man bought the land 20 years later.  Now that man is selling this little gem. Can I buy this legally? Is it possible to check a MV to see if is stolen? Does it matter after 40 years?

 

Thanks for your help! 

Your first post - obvious clue(s) - you are North American and a Troll  !

You'll soon fill the tin-sheet shed , but in daytime with doors closed will the tyres melt  ?  Doors open - probably too hot to spanner  ?

Not counting the very early  40BRC by Bantam Car ,  the Willys & Ford were crated in standard for and re-assembled in UK - then modifications done to such as electricals  (lighting)  - that was quite heavy relatively speaking .  Caution LHD stencil would be quite light work, I presume for benefit of UK road users, same with lighting  ?.

2 hours ago, Surveyor said:

No 1 British Army Stove, sold as MILITARY DEFENCE CAMP COOKER PRESSURE POT

Garage project  -   DIY  Doodlebug  ?

It was  1973 - shortly after I started with Black & Decker at their Spennymoor plant.  ISTR some frame/bedplate inside the tub - something like 2" x 3"  RSC .   The appliance was in lovely condition (then)  - unfortunately they were not prepared to spend £ , so the pump was just dumped in the tub.  By time I left 5 years later - it was still stood , by then on flat cracked tyres outside the boiler house next to main gate-house with the hood roof fallen in - rotten. Not a good sight for visitors to see on entry..    I had pondered asking the facilities manager if I could buy it making a conservative offer, considering his reply would automatically be - that he would have to place it up on the board for other offers for reasons of fairness.  In retrospect - I now think nobody would have been interested in a fire appliance, I was not greatly but at the time considered it too good for me to strip to put back as a basic utility.  It has always been a regret that I never made a strong push to buy it ,,

12 hours ago, scimart said:

That first suggestion is  a promising possibility - I don't suppose you've any recollection of how it was mounted?  Would these hole positions correspond with any memories?

(Rear of tub at top of picture)

I worked on a bronze centrif. pump (impeller shaft seized)  - may have been a Godiva - on a 86" owned by my employers.  The pump was in the tub and driven by centre power take off.  This had a full khaki hood .

Another method was rear power take off & pump overhang the rear cross member - these usually had a pick-up cab.  The tub space was taken up by a very large hose reeler drum.    The crew-space for both was probably just driver + two front seats.  Various methods of stowing extinguishers , hoses / ladders.

Factory built fire tenders - I would expect a line built vehicle was taken, (special arrangements made for red)  so probably less bodywork - then Solihull  SVO would complete - that's what they were there for..

On 9/8/2020 at 10:08 PM, Zero-Five-Two said:

It's good to write about things when you have had a bit of a result, even if it's only a small one.

Take one sorry bridge plate, and sand off the rubbish

Good coat of primer

and then a few top coats in the correct Golden Yellow.

Now the difficult bit

One water slide transfer to "slide" on

First attempt didn't go too well.  Looks OK from a distance, get close up and the cracks look awful.

Second attempt didn't go too well either, managed to get one corner screwed up.  Third one never actually made it onto the plate, a printer cartridge fault left a line down the first 2

But, can't let it go, keep going.  Fourth attempt, then.

Success, there's a tiny little nick on the second 2, but I can live with that for now. Leave to dry thoroughly then a few coats of clear lacquer to seal it should finish the job.

Well pleased.  Only one thing, my paint supplier insisted he needed to mix half a litre of paint to get the yellow colour right, and I've only used a teaspoon full here, so I'm quite flush for bridge plate yellow if anybody needs one doing  😁!

 

Difficulties with yellow paint finish , the correct undercoat colour - as I understand is brown.