ruxy
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Posts posted by ruxy
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4 hours ago, sirhc said:
I’ve changed tax class to historic on 4 vehicles so far. It is very easy. Take the V5 to the post office, tell them what you want to do and walk out 5 mins later with it all sorted. A new V5 appears in the post, the next year you can renew the tax online for free.
There is your answer Larry , go to your nearest MAIN Post Office and follow the instructions of sirhc , and of course report back in full HERE.
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4 hours ago, LarryH57 said:
Thanks for this ; so for clarity 1 need to order 10 x 548205 and 2 x 569746.
I have the correct springs and bolts and nuts
Correct , just check no 'genuine' supercessions , also sometimes the aftermarket continue with the older number / sometimes genuine / aftermarket NOS still available. . Often - the newer the number the higher the £ price !
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https://www.thexmod.com/item_detail.asp?id=44671
Priced in £ it should be armoured , armored it should be priced in $ ,,
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S3 civvy Parts Catalogue RTC9841CE dated June 1988 :-
FRONT chassis bush still - 569746
REAR chassis and all spring bushes still - 548205
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15 hours ago, LarryH57 said:
Also Fulltilt rather than waste a new post on leaf spring bushes, are the Britpart ones at say £1.60 each just good as the Genuine LR ones at c.£6 each. I'm having the 'leafers' done soon on my Lwt as well as the tyres? I am told I need 4 x 548205 but strangely the Lwt Parts catalogue gives 242825 as the part number and three are needed for each leaf spring so that's 12!
Reading this again , it seems there is a error with 12 qty. Seems it should read 10 qty. as the front chassis bushes are longer..
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30 minutes ago, David Herbert said:
Ruxy,
You have used the same part number - 569746 for both front and rear chassis bushes, presumably not what you intended ?
David
RTC9841CC dated April 1982
Page 1J 17
The REAR - CHASSIS bush - is stated as 548205 , then years ago I scrubbed it out in light pencil, then again marked as CORRECT with my words 'short bush at rear'. I should have used a rubber.
So yes, Larry's L'wt book is correct - 10 qty. 548205 are needed. (subject of supercession)
The FRONT = bush 569746 2 qty. (longer because of the different inner shackle plate with welded on ferrule.
For some reason - the standard 109" page I also penciled the rear chassis bush 548205 , as wrong & should have rubbed it out.
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I have another civvy parts book , I believe the latest S3 Edition ? - later I will check that.
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It is all a Mare's Nest , if you can find patience with FB , then expand all the comments and replies to the recent post of Butty Butt - concerting same with his FFR 55HG87.
All complicated because MOD "Release Notes" auction receipt had no actual date of manufacture. Often the DIS just stated the Month/ Year. Normally DVLA consider the cars FIRST registration as opposed to the Manufacture Year, most December built cars are not registered until the January of the next year. People getting "Heritage" Certificates, Solihull to get Sespatch In / Out dates. 'B' Cards from Museum , doing Merlin searches etc. etc.
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btw - replacing chassis bushes is a PITA , some use a gas-axe to burn the rubber out . I normally chain drill / use a hole saw from both sides & cut out. Then taking time , use die-grinder , hacksaw, files to split the outer sleeve without damaging the chassis tube. Just pray you don't have a loose chassis bush that has worn the tube . Go easy cleaning any rust , don't use a flap-wheel as it removed metal as well as rust & you need a transition/slight interference fit to pull the new bushes into.
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1 hour ago, LarryH57 said:
Looking at the L:wt Parts catalogue, it suggests I need 12 of these items - Correct?
Well - if that is what it states - it is one of those errors.
I am ref. to Parts book civvy April 1982 (88" = same as Lwt)
Each spring has two quantity = total of 8 qty. 548205
You need two qty. REAR chassis bushes (if required) 569746
And two FRONT chassis bushes , IIRC - a little longer in length = 569746
Front bushes tend to be a bit more expensive for 'genuine' - why ?
Probably FRONT not changed as often as REAR - smaller production runs.
Before starting - best launch the boat and get all the bushes and all the bolts (because you don't know if remaining serviceable until removed, they may be loose & worn , they may be rusted solid and threads get torn removing from shackle plates + shackle plate threads get damaged / plate holes worn, so you may need one or more of these, best to get 12 qty. new Nylock nuts.
The MOT Examiner does lever & check for wear - but it his best opinion at the time only.
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btw - if I knock out a rubber bush , it seems always a chassis bush rather than a spring. Serious tub payload overloads , squeaking , jack up & use of pry-bars LoL Bolts are best occasionally pulled and inspected (you can find heavy step wear caused by bush liner tube, factory never greased them) . I apply graphite of MoS2 . CV joint grease.
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I always do a quick check for SUPERCESSION , using LR Series
same part - just s/s.
https://www.lrseries.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=548205
s/s most often the reason is a change of design or manufacturer as OEM / spares supply. Q.C. for traceability for returned defectives.
Originally - well back in last century , the OEM would be Metalastic , Trelleborg was probably a supplier, in the days before BRITPART (Border Supplies). Approx. 40 years ago - I purchased sets of new petrol & diesel engine/gearbox mounting rubbers , both genuine & BRITPART , to me they were the same manufacturer , even with the same purple felt tip stroke for a "pass" inspection . I suspect that if you purchased genuine bushes you would get same as BRITPART supplied - & probably made in India.
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btw NAGBOL manufacturer , is branded on those rims made - in Denmark.
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Use Paddock Motors as a £ benchmark
Shotblasting is not cheap, then add approx. £15 for a tin of Hammerite No. 1 primer and £20 for a tin of Tractol enamel finish. Then hassle & own or £ paid for labour (then it would always be cheaper to buy new). When you get a blasting £ quote - you will get a shock !.
They seem only to be listing 5.5" width , as for 109" and Defender , however still worth asking availability for 5.00 width. ISTR the last 5.00 I purchased (new) was from Paddocks abt. 12 years ago & they were made by a Dunlop subsidiary Co. in Denmark. I have both riveted and welded TUBELESS 5.50 obtained secondhand & one / both are made in Italy - probably ? OEM supplier to Solihull.
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Very early Series one are different , the valve stem hole is in a different position ISTR it is a 4.50 rim, I don't think that will be a 231601, for the 'Reborn' project they are remanufactured but £ expensive & they are not riveted as they should be they are welded.
The suffix C = a body finish paint colour & it will not be P (primer) could be DBG bore likely Limestone.
The main thing to watch with used rims is the holes for the hub studs - they wear oval or roundish oversize (run on loose nuts) , this is common and they are just scrap. I find a 1/2" drive socket with a neat fit in a new rim and use that as a test gauge. They can be corroded & thin here too. Loose rivets are rare. Bare rims - you need to examine the tube contact area for heavy rust (signs of wastage) especially at the bead seat. Light rust there & it is best shot blasted , primed & finished. When you could get a new rim for £40 to £50 , it was not worthwhile. IIRC they are more like min £80 now. If you are going to chance it , find some local you can examine for good part worn tyres and check the holes as suggested.
I doubt if you will find very good used Series rims easy, I have in the last few years purchased excellent little used Defender 'safety type' rims with good 7.50 tyres on. I would have to check IIRC there are two common part numbers, you will find these branded on the periphery , not the nave, no good access for me to check as in a untidy shed. I may have a note in a vehicle notebook.
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Seems a classic case of starter motor pulling a already weak battery down & nothing left to fire the plugs.
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-2780-Ignition-Spark-Tester/dp/B003AN1VPW
Use a set of these , or in your case a set + half set would be best , shop around you should find a set for abt. £8 40 years ago - Lucas Service used to charge approx. £5 for a single tester & ISTR so did Halfords..
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btw. Do a online check using the Merlin Management VRM checker , just out of interest. The DIS or better still Ordnance Depot receipt date should be within a couple of days of the Solihull Dispatch OUT date.
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Suffix 'W' was issued from 01/8/1980 to 30.7/1981 - Suffix was the old rule , so many new cars were registered 01/8/1980. Following the new car neighbours - I registered 19FM65 L'wt on 01/8/1980 (it is of 1974 manufacture). The rules changed 01/8/1982 when Suffix 'Y' started - so my 92KA58 L'wt first registered Nov. 1997 (it is of 1983 manufacture) - so it must get a age of manufacture related 'Y' plate and does. End of Suffix alphabet ,new Prefix 'A' started 01/8/1983 to get a prefix A or any following annual prefix - it had to be first registration of a NEW vehicle, so my 57KB73 L'wt (it is of 1983 manufacture) - first registered May 2001 gets a Prefix "A" plate.
If you are still with me , due to MOD VRM's not running from 1st Aug. to 1st Aug. then --HG-- can end up with a civvy plate letter under old or new rules , however being on a "W" plate - it must be 40 years of age or even older - so if you do a DVLA search on 40 years + 1 day - then it should be showing of "Historic Status automatically" as computer based. One would hope so , however I would expect young employees of DVLA only know the new rules when dealing with a desk enquiry. Beverley Museum of Army Transport - ask Wally. In my experience - you went to the local office , they demanded the Release Notes (blue slip I forget the official Form number) , it is at the other side of their counter and no pleading / promise ever returned it . So if you did not photo-copy it prior then you were in $hit creek if you wished to maintain sound accurate records. They must have been only interested that you had not stolen the vehicle from the MOD material park !
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If you play around here (seasons etc) you can bring up the 6.50x16 VAN tyres , RADIAL but they are all 10PR
Note the Tigar (this is a IIRC 100% owned Michelin Company) the tread pattern seems same as the original 205R16 XM&S they designed for the Range Rover.
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I would need to see the full data sheet on these , car typeish but have their purpose & almost certain the 80 aspect ratio is just right. I used to use similar RADIALS on a Lightweight for long distance caravan towing. The ones I used were Michelin XCA but in 6.00x16 , slightly smaller rolling dia on for on steep hills and the Fairey overdrive more than put it back. The bonus is that I still have a full set stored and will use them on a Sankey narrowtrack. These seem a copy of the XCA.
https://www.protyre.co.uk/tyres/4x4-tyres/gt-radial/super-traveller-668/#/car/650/80/16/108/N/all
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The welded nave=plate 5.00 rim (STC 3402) supercession of riveted 231601 , years after production of Lightweight ceased .
With rims you will often find suffix letters after - that is just the paint finish (PM = primer).
If yours have 231601 branded on nave - then OK provided undamaged & not found rusted when the tyre is removed.
You must have the correct type/size of tube & cheap thin butyl are not so good, if German made they will be OK , £ expensive but most reliable is the Michelin airstop.
When Paddocks several years ago were selling new rimes very cheap , it didn't pay to shot blast. I used to get then done free on a conveyor shotblaster - a large steel fabricator, often with the tyre still on if serviceable - ball shot just cleans & bounces off rubber. These tube-type rings are no longer £ cheap. I have often purchased sets on eBay with good tyres - New Defender owners wanted shot to fit fancy alloys. Due to the present 6.50x16 tyre situation (lack of) - I would if I were you try and get by with what you have , or buy some good used. You don't know what may come on the market in tyres 6.50x16 , they could be tubeless - so best on the newer Tube type rims. If you get desperate , then probably some cheap far east 6.50x16 Bar-grips from a Jeep type place will be best - more so for a parade type truck. The better name brand bar-grips by such as Firestone cost a lot more but could also be made in far east !
Tyre fitting with tubes - take your own shaker of TALC , and get plenty used , few keep it handy.
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No - you find any make of 6.5x16 & new should be E marked , old rubber is very risky. The pressures are 25 psi Front and Rear , however once you start loading the tub you increase to 30 psi (when you are at the max. payload).
The CL 88" - was provided with bench seats in the rear and was fitted with 7 leaf (rear only) and 6.50x16 tyres. You will note in a lift car , the load-plate , the old BS2655 allowed 150 lb per person , so 150 x4 - 600 lbs and that is your 1/4 ton , add a bit of weight for kit & you would be getting into overload for standard rear springs on 6.00x16 tyres.
Springs - if there is a difference in weight between 7 leaf HD's and standard civvy front & rear , then it is negligible because the individual leaves are of thicker stuff - the pack is abt. the same thickness.
The HD's do improve the payload a little , but in conj. with HD shocks they give more compliance cross-country - when fully laden, thus stand up better o speeds above suggested in User Manuals..
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So - how was 6.50x16 size arrived at ?
Well you can play around with PAYLOAD Kerbside weight - but Solihull play around with a driver / amount of fuel etc. , but civvy and military differ with rating. All SWB earlier from 1948 were rated at 1/4 ton. The L'wt pre-pro were 1/4 ton.
The FFR L'wt has more weight (a little 120 lbs) on the front axle , however the front axle loading is less then the fully laden rear axle - so it matters not.
Between the earlier stated User Manuals S2A & S3, there is one difference - the S2A states - Cross Country the , rear axle load must be reduced by 200 lbs. In both books - the FFR modular radio kit is not accounted , so comparisons 12v / 24v are empty tub. The max. axle load is same for 12v & 24v = 2625 lb.
So - then we go to the ETRTO Tables, the tyre makers data sheet will state , conforms to ETRTO data (European Countries)
So - we look for a pressure of 30 psi (needed max. laden on rear axle) , the nearest is 29psi
So reading down the graduated tables for 29 psi :-
6.00 16c SINGLE 2315 lb
6.50 16c -do- 2515 lb
7.00 16c -do- 3000 lb
We need tyres suitable for - 2625 lb (no less) as unsafe. 7.00x16c has plenty of capacity in hand. But adds weight , £ and performance suffers a little.
So that leaves us with 6.50x16c BUT that only permits 2515 lb , however if you inflate by another 1 psi then that gets you another 110 lb. So simple - basic maths.
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All that matters is what the British Army earliest S2A / Rover 1 User Manual (August 1968) and the last S3 L'wt User Manual states , regarding tyres - 6.50 x 16 Cross Country. Pressures 25psi but REAR 30 psi
Historic Vehicle Status
in MV Chatter
Posted
Gets better - Larry.
I will be waiting for 1984 , FIRST registration of 85KB04 , more or less decided to fit BRITPART !! civvy spec. springs , claimed as manuf. by the OEM to Santana (along with Std. shocks). I have this set up on a Rover 10 that I fitted new original Bramber springs , vast £ saving on Paracetamol..
I purchased 85KB04 from MVS Jan. 1998 , had DMG Autos @ Alrewas , give a clean MOT ticket 07.01/98 & drove it home on trade plates. I have all the MOD Service Records - mileage still 33,516 - garaged on blocks 22 years.
At least I have 4 years to fit the winterization kit , if Covid19 does not get me..