ruxy

Just needs the bilges pumping out , fastest coble out of Blyth  !

12 hours ago, matchlesswdg3 said:

Thanks, Richard!  I was advised on another forum that all you need to do is pull out the sticks from the tub and squeeze them inward so they slide down into the tub.  That also angles down the rainwater channels so that the tallest part remains the windscreen plus a couple of cm for the front tilt securing bar.  Thats a 5 minute job and gives the required clearance.  

Not a trick I would try -  because , you would have to well slacken the associated fixings ,you could damage the galv. rainwater channels (new genuine are more or less unobtainium) copy part are rubbish in comparison , also you could damage the rear door-top seal strip and the shark-tooth rail into the bargain (read as for rainwater channels -  ££ ) . Into the bargain I doubt if you could slam the doors shut.   Into the bargain  - if houseproud of internal tub paintwork ,  btw - the stick hoops are already squeezed in a bit more (abt. 5/8" ) in comparison to a civvy model  (compare distance over sockets) - this is all to do with design flog of the max. o'all width being 5ft max. across bodyside cappings.  Plus to a certain extent you are pitching camp in the dark  LoL

On the only correct tyres  6.50 x 16  for a British Ex-MOD  Lightweight (basic standard) ,  you should have no problems getting under a nominal 6ft - 6" up-n-over door (the actual measurement from FFL will be abt. 2" to 3" under 6ft. 6". -  You should have no problem at all in entering - just take care entering first time , esp.  if there is a downward slope on the drive.      I have to remove hood & sticks (hoops)  + galv. thingies above door tops , this with a garage I have with a 6ft U & O door + slight slope on drive. BUT - no need to drop the screen , this is just a 5 min. spanner job and gets the height right down to just under 5ft for steering wheel clearance.

Just now, ruxy said:

Balmoral do not have a good reputation ,  they seem to be rotational moulded and probably insufficient plastic at process start - from what I have seen wide variations in thickness.    One point worthy of mention that I learned after the event -  probably the only way to stop a 28 sec. burning oil leak is  a bar of SOAP. Fortunately - I was able to pump  (drill powered thing from Machine Mart, £ cheap , slow but effective ) to a identical  'reserve' tank .   I did not wish to go to bunded tank(s).   Fortunately a gas main was laid along road 20 years earlier , I should have taken up the offer of £nil for pipe to meter,  the £ cost was not too bad because I opted to trench & back-fill for 50 yards.  The contractor used a mole  under the tarmac with great accuracy ,  the connection joint with heating element was interesting..

On 5/17/2020 at 10:50 PM, Gordon_M said:

Balmoral is just a couple of miles from me here in Aberdeen, I look at a load of fibreglass stuff there.  Went to the tank / vessel place in England once but don't remember exactly where it was.

Anyway - want to bet that he'll find numerous other long bits he needs to strip, now that he has sold the tank?  😉

Balmoral do not have a good reputation ,  they seem to be rotational moulded and probably insufficient plastic at process start - from what I have seen wide variations in thickness.    One point worthy of mention that I learned after the event -  probably the only way to stop a 28 sec. burning oil leak is  a bar of SOAP. Fortunately - I was able to pump  (drill powered thing from Machine Mart, £ cheap , slow but effective ) to a identical  'reserve' tank .   I did not wish to go to bunded tank(s).   Fortunately a gas main was laid along road 20 years earlier , I should have taken up the offer of £nil for pipe to meter,  the £ cost was not too bad because I opted to trench & back-fill for 50 yards.  The contractor used a mole with great accuracy ,  the connection joint with heating element was interesting..

Will have to lock that in memory for the right time - disposal.

I have  the bottom bit of a green (good colour for a planter) plastic central heating oil tank made by Balmoral. It is about 12" high and about conventional bathtub size ,  when time available LoL  I intend trying 'electrolysis'  rust removal on leaf springs.  I need to read up on best battery charger to use.

The tank was not so easy to chop up using a Bosch jigsaw ,  some bits I kept and have been utilized for a few jobs , the brash went in the 'recycle'  wheelie-bin  !

Age fatigue cream-crackered or ethanol attack   ?

To be my normal pedantic self,  WW2 finish (USA)  , would be  'lusterless'    not  matt.

Make certain it is a proper Defender tailgate (fully sheet stiffened on rear).

Genuine authentic  ' gardening tools' ,, the sit comes after.

Recently published , good primer & beyond (I doubt if there will be anything more advanced for a while).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Classic-Engines-Modern-Fuel-Solutions/dp/1787115909

23 hours ago, Diana and Jackie said:

Recently did a little experiment on E5 petrol, added 600ml of water to 4 litres of petrol, I extracted the 600ml of water out and another 600ml of Ethanol.

It can be got out just takes a lot of effort. Have yet to find out the effect on the engine.

Diana

BBC local news for NE & Cumbria , had a feature a few days ago about a firm who could run  24/7 producing sanitizer gel , but can't get Ethanol & in any case the £ they are paying is x4 what it had been prior to the virus.   Your E5 does seem high on Ethanol content but I am no chemist or mathematician ,,

The data is all good for your Lightweight , you are testing & getting 25 volts on a pair in series.  The voltage would be better a bit higher , one battery could be poor condition pulling the other down.  When charging - you should be looking for near 29 volts.   I would get a discharge tester on both batteries (as singles) to see how how high they are on stated capacity , if sulphation has set in even on one battery - the old old problem (you need a good pair) , the REAL test is turning the engine with starting & firing up, you may be churning the engine & have nothing left to fire the plugs !

With a FFR - not so easy to fault find with screened wires / plugs.  You seem to have assumed you have a coil problem giving your high tension problem.

btw.  I use a DZ dizzy cap modified with bog-std.  12 volt wire set with rubber suppressor caps , then I can fit 12 volt spark plugs along with plug testers (Laser do a set of 4 qty. cheap) - then I can visually check for a healthy spark, speeds the process up.

IIRC  - the coil is actually rated  28 volt

5C10 45120E

5C10  is a code often associated with Land Rover coils,  is there a NSN on the packaging.

45120  =  Lucas No.  could be prefix  LU/

Suffix E = possibly a slight change in spec. (manufactured over many years)

You may find a date code - search for tiny brandings - abt. 2mm high.

NOS - you would be unlucky if one deteriorated in storage.

The skin-wrapped one - at least you would see any oil loss.

The coils should be equally good for a few reference tests , then check against the original - it may still be OK.

Thomas  -  Tuxedo  ,   unfortunately our last was run over and killed 3 years ago.  Next door had a pair , but one also run over & killed - the survivor comes in our house every day.   Great fun when we had three + our mackerel  BIG kittens going daft in the back garden.

According to my Amazon account -  You purchased this item on 30 Oct 2016.

I now know I am looking for a hardback book.

IIRC  The numbers 'detained' on the east side of Scotland was low.

I remember a conversation (that I had to prevent a argument) with somebody I know who lives Glasgow , Polish origins , his comments Webb was more than a bit suspect  along with the words 'primary evidence'.    ISTR it was hardly news that the Isle of Bute was used for officers , but a fenced camp for rankers somewhere in the Clyde area.

https://www.scotsman.com/whats-on/arts-and-entertainment/were-secret-concentration-camps-run-scotland-during-wwii-1483503

3 hours ago, johnwardle said:

I see that you have both left and right handed adjustables, the big question is are they imperial or metric?

IREGA  do offer both right & left turning models ,  ISTR it is the knurl nut helix thread - uncertain of the benefit(s)  , I doubt if it is to provide best choice option for both right & left handed persons  ?

I have heard that type of spring clip called a "French Clip"  , I don't know how correct the term is  ?

ISTR that with  GS  , you need to settle on 2mm rod dia.  the rest of the dims. are as near as dam for the application.   I did intend to check the hole dia. to see if possible to go up in clip rod dia.  ?

https://www.gsproducts.co.uk/2mm-stainless-safety-spring/

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The originals when new are a goldish colour passivation ,  I don't think malt vinegar will touch this grade of  SS  ,  possibly drain some mix. out of a old battery will ?     Malt vinegar can give a good blackadised finish on most tool steels high in chrome.    My other idea , shot blast the pins for grip and then use a black acid etc. then green NATO

Regarding ,  "distressing"  - model makers are often the best ,   possibly Steve Carr  (Jessie the Jeep) should be consulted  ?   Or just leave bright SS / blasted mass SS  ?

I am undecided , still pondering and moving slowly on with overall Clansman project.

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Interestingly - when I was a apprentice I worked with a few ex-RAF fitters - this is where I learned what a Oddie fastener was.   I wonder if FOKKER clips were designed in WW1 era. for retaining aircraft panels & allowing quick release ?

Well ,  I have my notes here - from when I used my Moore & Shite  0-1"  and genuine Starrett (Jedburgh)  6"  ruler of glare-resistant chrome finish  ,  also Zeus tables (all equipment purchased 1965) however - be aware I need to go to SpecSavers

Rod  dia.  2.25mm

Length  45mm

Max. O'all length  55mm

Internal of helicoil  10mm

Closed   15mm

Open   20mm

A civil surveyor should be able to decipher a engineer surveyor's notes  LoL

Well - I would not call them a Linch pin ,  actually I would say they are a Fokker .

I recently had the same sourcing problem for identical application.   Genuine ones are plated , if it were cadmium - then they would probably not rust through - the real ones are the real Fokkers ,,.

It depends - do you wish to be a rivet-counter  ??

Possibly you should buy a stash of Stainless Steel ones , dimension wise the same , even mirror bright (not distressed) IMHO better than rusted split-pins  , so often seen in service & demob..

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I would suggest you eyeball the  GS Products web site

https://www.google.com/search?q=fokker+pin&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b

3 hours ago, earlymb said:

That being said, what are practical things to do to 'convert' standard vehicles to this poison? I guess changing the fuel pump membrane for an E10-resistant one and draining the carb every time you put it away? I'm not sure if you can actually nullify the effects of ethanol with an additive, although some of the Premium fuels (98) reportedly have 5% or even no ethanol added at all... Might be worth checking the websites of various suppliers to see which ones.

Arrive at the only conclusion.     Ethanol in bulk tanker delivery is done using tanks of  Grade 100 Series , Stainless Steel.  Obviously there is "Regulation" on shifting the stuff , however once within a car fuel tank the gov. don't give s.f.a.

As we know , it can attack some Buna (synthetic) rubber , also some plastics - I assume plastic fuel tanks are OK  ?

Years ago when ethanol /petrol mix was being used , car tanks were Terne Steel and fuel lines were in the main Bundy (more or less rolled Terne).   Rubber fuel hose seems a modern problem , although it should be well marked for suitability.  Much fear propaganda when E5 was introduced , I have had no problems.  E10 may be different.   Light ends vapping off is supposed to be a problem - that would only be with a vented system, same with the hygroscopic problem.

11 hours ago, Surveyor said:

Someone said to me that there is an increase in water in petrol as well, not sure how true this is

The ethanol content can absorb water from the atmosphere.   AFAIK - straight petrol is train tankered (overnight) from the refineries to the "Dry" terminals and it is here that the Ethanol is added just prior to road tanker.   I suppose it aids the CAP grain over-target + weather spoilt grain.  Even post-BREXIT , the RPA is fully funded equiv. of CAP subsidy for several years.

AFAIK - situation unchanged to several years ago - it takes more energy to produce Ethanol to go into the production machinery , than the Ethanol obtained as product !

All the yellow fields that once you never observed in the countryside - the Oil seed Rape (virgin)  and it's brash rubbish pressing - makes up the % added to mineral DERV or straight bioDiesel.  

22 hours ago, Runflat said:

A couple of pictures of the Wilkins Unloading Gear in action, and the articles they are from.  The first is a Hallford, the second looks to be a Foden.  Enjoy!

Wilkins 1.pdf 9.53 MB · 3 downloads Wilkins 2.pdf 10.31 MB · 2 downloads

Wilkins  'patent' movable floor ,  what goes around comes around , now loose bulk carriers are referred to with  "walking floor"   & one or two + manufacturers claim they hold patent.