ruxy
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Posts posted by ruxy
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Is it a localized area , norm of door bottoms , SW back door , wing attachment point(s) to bulkhead, tub to chassis mountings ? FFR tubs at side due to steels (reinforcement for antenna mountings) this through panel corrosion that is highly visible is not a problem on a basic. Differing problems - different approach. A specialist aluminium etch may be OK , however alloy needs grip more than anything , that means a fairly course abrasive (this also removes the oxide that leads to failure) . I have found this , even using a cellulose primer / primer filler followed by de-nib is very sound (even after 40 years).
S2A would be almost certainly Birmabright BB2 grade, all of S3 years the alloy had a few microns of coating (best protection, don't disturb) , on shattered paint - you will see this as a yellow,gold,greenish tinge (it is not anodising , somebody once advised it was alondising (as that particular process the term now is - I doubt it is). This bloke was in the aero industry and I believe I have seen this material.
Some say Defenders are thinner stuff (I don't doubt , and I suspect the coating may be deleted. Ford sort of sorted SW doors by cladding with zinc coated steel sheet. Any skins will be just soft aluminium , therefore a local perforating pitting repair using fibre glass chopped mat mix (from a tin) would be more permanent.
If this problem is over all panels , they I would guess a P.O. has in the past stripped to bare metal and used a unsuitable primer or with bad prep.
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23 hours ago, Jessie The Jeep said:
We continued East through Craghead, descending all the way to Chester-le-Street and then cut up passed Rickleton into the South of Washington and back home. We were out for around three and a half hours and despite wearing a hat, my head felt quite numb by the time I got home. I gave the Jeep a hose down before putting it to bed.
That photograph stopped at junction about to cross towards Quebec, road Lanchester to Cornsay/Esh , nice summer day a fav. spot for hand held speed gun @ south/west grass verge . Catches drivers cresting Wilk's Hill , myself - I had left Quebec and turned left, still in second gear , Astra 2L diesel LoL
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1 hour ago, eddy8men said:
i may do a little modification here and there
Certainly plenty of scope there !
Is there any form of chassis members on underside ? Any bolt holes with paint off that would be a clue to any original suspension etc. assuming they got that far . Interior does suggest it was at a running stage.
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Well at least you had a proper roof light if the polis had done a border pull , before Covid-19 , smaller roads around X'mas - the excuse used to be poultry theft check.
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Just pondering , this is not important - the B Card , normally the vehicle hardware nomenclature plate is left alone but the Asset Code gets a line through and a winterized code.
Also, has the seller correctly identified it as a RACAL correctly ? Some of the MOULD 'insertion' would probably be winterized for very good reason(s). I think the year was 1979 , I just got clear during a heavy snow-storm - the last in a Que to drive out (1250cc Chevette), a couple behind were not so lucky - their bodies were found under snow 6 weeks later - this was exactly at a MOULD camping site in regular use for practice.
Visually they were almost the same - roof rack etc., photograph of MOULD in civvy livery - seems to show Jerry can holders on front bumper - a clue , they were campers. Scroll down for pic ,, http://www.ringbell.co.uk/ukwmo/Page251.htm
You will see PYE equipment installed inside a MOULD. This 109" for sale , I accept the B Card has the clue Racal-SES (whatever SES means) , but Racal could have been contracted to install PYE radio MOULD ? PYE tended to be more commercial communications, Racal were much involved with military radio Land Rovers.
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No rotation on any speed , motor jammed or blown fuse.
Single speed (fastest) only operation , could be resistor blown. Switch could be gone but I doubt if on both sides.
Have you checked the fan will actually turn - leaf mash is a common problem on many cars. If stalled it will blow the fuse.
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purple with green trace - feed from fuse (check glass fuse)
green /yellow trace & green/slate (grey) trace between motor & speed on/off switch , black from switch to earth
Above is bog-std. (non air-con)
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Winterization complete , however note the three qty. Lift-the-Dot above the plastic radiator grille , this indicates it had the later design radiator blind for cold-climate - easily restored. The headlamps may have had small canvas flap covers. Hardtop connection/panel - 240v ? side one is probably for "Slave-Start" / heli-start ? , SS is normally in passenger footwell.
I once had a perimeter walk around one of these approx. 1995 at Land Rover franchise dealership North Eastern Motors , Lemington (original premises) . A mechanic told me that under regular servicing by franchise dealers , few of them and stored at TA depot garages around UK. He also told me the side & back door were always kept locked , ISTR the back door had a extra hasp and padlock.
Must have been lots more electronic equipment in the back originally.
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Such as Kendal & Gent 'chasers' were a common cheat ,,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-Vintage-Kendall-Gent-Screwing-Machine-Chasers-Tin/372646617948
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btw. I don't know the production runs of these gearbox primary shafts , but even short , the machining would be done , threads probably just roughed. Any heat-treatment - then any grinding to finish and that would include the threads. The best way to finish the threads would be on a centre-grinder fitted with a crusher, when LAL had their factory at Newton Aycliffe , that was how they did their taps inc. L.H. and they would be just short-runs. Using a hand-glass - it will be possible to confirm if threads turned/scraped or ground to size.
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12 hours ago, andypugh said:
They would cut the thread that they had tooling for. In 1934 that would have been BSW / BSF. They wouldn't have randomly chosen (pre-ISO) metric or UN / Sellers just because it is theoretically cheaper to single-point.
They might well have chosen to forego the crest rounding for the reasons you mention, but the thread angle is still rather more likely to be 55 than 60 (or 47.5, or 80).
Even now firms don't buy machine tools / tooling unless they are contracted to do a very long run. Shorter batches they would make do with what they have or contract out some operations - the threading may have been such a case with these primary shafts. Whitworth form IMHO would always be done the proper traditional way = pride. Tool rooms I have worked in always had a shadow-graph & even 55 or 60 degrees would call for second opinion(s) on a small dia. like 1" . With power presses jammed on the bottom (common event on thin oiled material being hand fed), we used to use every trick in the book to save the pitman screw from the gas axe , I have known some odd possibly modified special pitman threads on ancient British & foreign presses , older were often a knuckle . Modern always a buttress - that was a joy infeeding the toolpost set at an angle followed by the ball to a template and then final lapping-in to the seat.
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Thinking more about this , a gearbox primary shaft would almost certainly be threaded in a centre lathe . It as a LH thread , if I were doing it - then I would prefer that to a RH thread , as I would be working towards the tailstock (away from the step). I would not bother trying to use a tool inverted (leave that to Alfred Herbert). The draughtsman would probably consult the turner or planner - both IMHO would say avoid a Whitworth form. It would greatly add to production costs. The thing is the crests have to be rounded , today a toolpost mounted chaser would probably be used but try getting a LH one. A 16 tpi hand chaser will have a handle like wood turning tool/scraper and be at least 2 foot long (and some poor B has to use it) , a LH one would not be unobtainium even going back 70 years +
https://www.jeadonengineering.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=20_62&product_id=2978
Getting a good look at the crests with a pocket magnifier would be worthwhile, you may see the scraped crests against the turned thread marks.
It could even be 25mm x 1.5 pitch , the .003" difference with 1/16" would not be so easy to determine , and should be eliminated. First check I would do would be with a 0-1" micrometer - is the dia. 1" or 16 thou. under ??
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On 12/18/2020 at 11:13 AM, Bill Coates said:
It's the gearbox primary shaft so it's possible it could be a replacement. I hadn't come across UN extra fine before! The things you learn on this forum!!!!
Very probably , say renewed 1954 , 20 full years of active service that could have included being a Home Guard troop bus ! Late 1970's - I remember going to local scrap yards after BMC "A" Series stuff, complete engines/gearboxes/radiators to repower Morris Minot. There was still quite a lot of pre-WW2 motors still active locally until abt. 1970 , 40 years with chassis welding was the norm. I couldn't shift my old man away from Ford. I still have a expanding reamer for doing his 1938 Ford Prefect king pins , it had been laid-up since post WW2 petrol rationing , it was reactivated 1965 in prep. for me to learn to drive on , somehow I did that with a A30 , however a 1963 Morris Mini Minor pulled the tallent better LoL
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22 minutes ago, andypugh said:
But would a 1934 British car be using Unified threads? (Unlikely, Unified threads were invented during WW11)
I just finished an M77 x 1 thread. I chose that size as I had a 76mm recess that needed a thread, and the 1mm threading tool was the one in the holder.
If it had been the 1.25 insert then it might have been an M77.25 x 1.25 thread instead.Posted 21 hours ago
1934 Singer , what is the component ? If it is a 'fast-mover' then it may be a post 1948 replacement part - in that case a 16 UN (National Extra Fine) on 1" dia. would fit the bill.
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This sort of query - always best to get it on a shadowgraph.
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Don't forget that when you consult your Zeus or whatever tables , the pitch in relationship to the diameter is just the 'preferred' and this is what the automotive industry tend to work to. In the real industrial world like machine tools - where large dia. tend to be screwcut on a lathe , the pitch is chosen best suited for the application when you get to dia. above abt. 2" Things like locking collars for overhead travelling crane trailing wheel axles , multi-auto lathe spindles etc.
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1934 Singer , what is the component ? If it is a 'fast-mover' then it may be a post 1948 replacement part - in that case a 16 UN (National Extra Fine) on 1" dia. would fit the bill.
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Perhaps Paragon Paint have the answer ?
A few years ago , I had some Hammerite Smooth Finish BLUE , rather than leave it spare in the tin , I painted a load of Record G clamps & sash cramp heads , put them back on the garage roof joist hanging nails to dry. I also did a Record 34 vice , when dry looking at the G clamps - they looked brand new & finish quite right. Looking at the vice , possibly I could see a very slight shade shift ?
I have a brand new IRWIN Record 36 vice , I didn't pay a fraction of the official list £ price. Fresh out the crate - it has sat bolted to a bench in a dark garage for over 5 years - possibly it is a shade brighter/deeper than the traditional Record blue ? I think the IRWIN ones may be made in China or Taiwan ? so don't compare with this new stuff.
https://www.paragonpaints.co.uk/BS381C-110-Roundel-Blue-Record-Vice-Blue.html
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It is years since I was involved with this , the most important is checking the "dew-point' and keeping a few safe degrees above on ambient temperature. To be honest - there is a bit more to it , such as aluminium is a colder metal than such as steel , remember how aluminium windows & doors created condensation on the inside , then the makers split the extrusions and re-bonded them to create a thermal break. A bit better but then along came uPVC. You are risking disaster painting at low temperatures. BLOOM is also a danger , whatever the colour you could end up with matt powdery white clouds , obviously some types of paint are more resistant than others.
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Hi
They are RARE , I don't recall ever seeing one.
Bit of info. for you :-
Design is based on the 70's FV2420 bridging trailer (Handbook dated 1970). The The FV2410 series parts catalogue is dated 1980
https://forum.emlra.org/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=11621&hilit=rapier+trailer
You may be able to £$ buy a first generation copy Instructions / Parts list , try such as LR Series or Green Machine Surplus.
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I think it is a proper paraffin can for filling Tilley lamps , paraffin stoves , blowlamps etc. I can remember the village chemist filling my methylated spirits bottle with one. You went to the ironmongers for paraffin - demarcation I suppose.
A Valor version
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Valor-Paraffin-Oil-Can-Esso-Blue-/142373057502
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btw 'Spill-line' , I believe is the proper term , however - they do get called a "Dribble-pipe" - now we know why.
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The hole is tiny , considering the time-line - complex drilling. First time I was inside Cummins engine factory at Darlington was 1971 . I was sort of amazed , clean room ? - there were probably six men nearing retirement age using magnification glass approx. 12" dia. (standard thing - seen them in other factories). They were actually hand aiming & drilling the holes in the end of the injectors !
The CAV inject pump (actually a badge-engineered Roosa Master , possibly the injectors are also ? ) of course is lubricated with diesel , so are the injectors - from the spill-line.
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1 hour ago, eddy8men said:
i've just bought it and apparently no one really knows what it's original designation was. i was told it might have been a protoype for an iraqi afv contract but it's not certain. i may never find out.
I hope you start a 'reconstruction project' thread ,,
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1908 Dennis Truck
in Pre WW2 vehicles
Posted