ruxy

In theory - you should be using a dti (dial test indicator) to set the end-float , although I don't , for the same reason I don't use a torque wrench as much as I probably should..  V.L. Churchill Tools - offered a attachment bracket for dti (with genuine Land Rover part No.  - check the rear of the Operation Service Manual). I hardly ever see check-nuts with chisel marks because I throw the disgusting things (they are quite cheap).  Many hub nut tools are a very loose fit, mine is a Melco and was tight - that is very good , mine still has traces of Engineers Micrometer Blue from when I filed it to get a nice neat fit.  A neat fit is best to get the 'feel' of the first nut.

The only good tab washers to fold are genuine ones that are thin and of low grade material that folds easy.  Most cheap copy parts are too thick to start with.

Put damage down to DIY / nil proper training - a machine tool fitter would never leave his name & address , he would soon be found and sacked.

Your hub end-caps will be LWT specific , flat with stud for half-shaft , these axles had oil lubricated hubs, a smear of bearing grease is OK but I also spin the hub and get as much EP90 oil in as I can before quickly spinning the cap on.  The cap needs a proper thick 'O' ring , most copies sold are wrong size & totally useless, most claiming to be "genuine" are in fact wrong - possibly due to even the Army  61278 (May 1975) Illustrated Parts Catalogue being wrong,   561981 is correct. if  required - best go to a franchise dealership, £ high but will be what is needed , real ones do have a long life - even 50 + years !

That is a welded tank , from abt. early 1980's  the cradle is probably secured like early with solder plugs (would have to check). 

The mud trap at front fixings area to outrigger tends to get hosed - not a great problem , perforation from outside seems problem near rear mounting as only the keen hose there. Never known the side panels rust through.

A good degreaser is meths because it is 100%  spirit (ethanol) and £ cheap.

Actually ancient dried up petrol can look like rust on tank bottom, I have had this on a very old Honda genny set I purchased , only because it is a collectors item and mint. The tank is now perfectly clean but tinged brown.  I kept using WD40 to soak in thinking it was rust , came out like coffee !

I can't see the point of using slosh sealer on these tanks other for bottom and  1" to 2" up sides .  The ethanol danger is when the water settles on bottom & you could do a pair for £ of one - bogoff  !

Thicker sheet steel commercial tanks , after de-rust , you could get areas of high wastage checked with a NDT ultrasonic thickness tester. Modern electronic ones are now probably quite common.

Abt.  1990 - I took the kids to watch the gliders at Sutton Bank on a good day, they were using a large static winch but obviously unable to get close up .  I was amazed at the quantity  in time frame  launched , most soaring along the edge - to me from the ground they seemed in very close proximity to each other - not what I expected !

1 hour ago, david1212 said:

Britain was then fundamentally self - sufficient for vehicle manufacture. One issue was the mechanicals were essentially still the same as 10+ years earlier. There was too little investment private or public in development and modernisation of production.

Demand fell away in favour of imports that made the UK products look outdated. Further basic Japanese cars like the Datsun Cherry 100A had reliability and build consistency that was in a different league from anything British.

 

I was all over Oz & Kiwi  1970/71  ,  I had noticed Jap vehicles in Oz , so no big surprise when they landed in UK.   The most noticeable thing I recall was when the Subaru 284 pickup 4x4 was imported, the local pub car park filled up with them (farmers sons)  - strange thing was they were always a shade of Navy Blue  ?    In a perverted way - I would like one to restore.

1:35  I stopped the moovie for the first LWT , unfortunately unclear and can't get the ERM.     Travelling - certainly vehicles more interesting in those days ,  I used to stay at The George  Bp. Stortford for a week  1973 , 1978 , 1993/94  -  it never changed.

Larry  -  specifically with the Lightweight / military underseat fill tanks, first you need to identify.    Talking 'genuine' tanks  :-

Early tanks - these were made from  Terne steel  (steel coated with a alloy of tin & lead) , You should spot the folded side-plate seams easy , the give away is the tank top soldered seam.  This often cracks , I  re-solder quick heat in out (otherwise the folded lap-joint moves) - using a propane torch & nozzle a bit bigger than micro-bore.  First I wash out with Fairey Liquid & boiling water , then I steam with lance of a wall-paper stripper.    I have my doubts if ethanol will attack terne ,  Rolls Royce used it and I believe many cheap production cars - never heard of ethanol problems when Cleveland Discol was available & it was probably nearer E10 than E5.

Later tanks - these are welded , the bead runs to me seem gas welded , I doubt if they would use any coated steel such as Zintec , you should easy identify.  These tanks  - probably will get attacked from inside.

btw  -  the tank I repaired with a coin & Araldite (original long setting time) , I was caravan towing in Wales - early 1980's.  19FM65 , would be original tanks. I laid it up Y2K  (with time I would like to restore , have new vent panel & Les. Crome footwells) chassis is VGC and body is mint - just needs another respray with cellulose.   I drained the tanks & poured 1/2  gallon of diesel in both - that Araldite repair has held for coming up 40 years  !

There are other resin products , for boats - I have uses West stuff.  I would consider for slosh.

On 7/3/2020 at 7:30 PM, LarryH57 said:

I suppose the real question is Fuel Tank sealant necessary for every replacement Tank?

With E5 (and E10 to come) a real corrosion problem is oxidation + galvanic caused by getting water in the tank , technical - the added corrosion problem is due to ethanol blended petrol absorbing water from the atmosphere,  more serious is LIQUID water entering, water droplets sitting in the same place corrode a hole in the base of the tank because water containing ethanol is highly corrosive (to carb float chamber as well).   As I see it - a Land Rover with underseat fill tanks is less of a problem than neck fill , you can remove the cap and observe for beads of water rolling under the petrol.  Also there should be less danger of water entry than with a neck fill.   You can get bad fills of petrol with some water content - that is what to watch for. So in short your tanks are almost as good as car plastic tanks.    You could have a scoop device to remove, or a pump suction hose, if the worst comes to the worse you can drain the tank & remove the water easy (providing you do the job in open-air & have containers and keep smokers well clear.   The worst problem is a metal tank you can't see into  !       Winter storage , run one tank dry after running the other low (say 1 gall = 20 miles  LoL) , then run the other tank dry ,  spray some Triple T in tank ,  next season - be prepared as change over tap may need a new cork gasket,  ISTR instructions with a new cork - a smear of Vaseline helps ,,

You could also run the carb dry , you could remove the top cover of 36IV and mop out + check the ethanol has not got at the float.  I have had top gaskets for carburettor  dry out , totally cream crackered , not one piece bigger than 1/4" x 1/4".

Keep tank slosh sealer treatments for non top fill tanks.

A word of extra-warning - have wife handy with Fairey Liquid , I have had my hand well stuck removing water !

btw - I have a proper intrinsically safe torch when peering inside.

10 hours ago, Le Prof said:

Hi All,

in a previous life I was a staff cadet at 637 Sqn VGS (Volunteer Gliding School), based at RAF Little Rissington.

We had two RAF lightweights, which I think was standard for all VGS. I seem to remember the serials were 20AM56 and 20AM58, or 'Crash 1' and 'Crash 2', with Crash 2 mounting a large foam extinguisher in the back.

This would be about 1983. We carried out several week long gliding courses for Combined Cadet Force cadets, and to keep us busy we were tasked with refreshing the paint on the landrovers.

They were all over yellow. We contacted MT at RAF Brize Norton for more paint, only to be told that they didn't hold it, and we would have to buy it from Texas Homecare, shade 'Sweetcorn Yellow' and charge it back.

Both were repainted all over yellow. A bit of mooching over at the Home Office Fire Research and Development hanger on the same site provided enough fluorescent orange stickyback vinyl for us to put stripes down both vehicles, and the word 'Fire' on the door of 'Crash 2'.

A quick look on the VGS websites shows they are still using all yellow landrovers.

Best Regards,

Adrian

---------------

Sweetcorn Yellow - that is a colour to remember.  I have seen a few yellow LWT glider tugs - they would just be used for recovery  ?

The ones I have seen were just plain yellow, however if you look at the back cover of The Half-Ton Military Land Rover by Mark Cook , you will see  612 VGS  , unfortunately the vehicle  ERM  plate is removed.   It has red/white/red candy rock stripes - each abt. 1" wide also a large red square on door with FIRE in white. It is a early model - possibly  --AM--  Inside are two pics of  93KA31  +  05KD21  (one of the final non-FFR 24 volt).    Mark Cook had a plain yellow 90"  until recent years,,

 

4 hours ago, webley455 said:

Chassis number fits into sequence for 88AM13 to 88AM60. B card confirms registration number as 88AM49 entered service 1978 and sold off 1983.

Im hoping RAF museum records will fill in the gap 

Not so many in quantity for RAF Contracts.  Your  95104647A  in the scheme of things is not so far away from my  95104109A   (43GF07)   GF was Army  1975 to 1976 ,  if yours was originally  Ex-Solihull  in Green  (and I think not) then I would say DBG ,  however ISTR  RAF  Blue/Grey went just beyond 1976.

The Solihull Dispatch OUT records recorded colour , but they would just write Green or Blue.

42 minutes ago, webley455 said:

This one was in service from 1978 to 1983. Don’t have any other detail yet though

--AM--   was from 1972 to1978

5 hours ago, webley455 said:

It’s RAF registration was 88AM49. I have contacted the RAF museum but apart from a we will get back to you reply I haven’t heard any more so far.

The main question, however, was when did the yellow stripe stop being used or do they still use it.🙂

More to point - when approx. did yellow paint stop being used & what was the colour code.  The reflex decal strip that came later ISTR I did research to identify make/type for 92KA58 but never obtained.

4 hours ago, Mk3iain said:

Just a thought but Land Rovers used on airfields would not be fitted with Clansman (A picture will pop up now but it will be rare), more likely Pye radios or Storno and the like.

It would be good to hear where it lived during its service it makes ownership much more interesting. And if you can find it in period photos all the better.  You never know..

 

Like you - I thought Clansman doubtful , age of vehicle - a Larkspur box would be better.  I have two Pye Westminster both with RNAS station Dymo call.

Do a history search request with RAF Museum , will state Solihull Ex- Works colour . You must have looked for trace of  Blue/Grey ?   this is a possibility as it seems a  --AJ--   (at latest) due to early features extant , possibly a  --AM-     :-

Rear wing toolbox.

Early door bottoms

Some glass lens

Badge seems metal & is at metal location on grille

Possibly a oil-cooler fitted  ?

AJ's went as far back as 1976 and IIRC , prior AM's were Blue/Grey

I don't recall seeing a brush paint job in service, RAF ones in straight NATO Green - RAF always sprayed and the finish was always a little posh as if a bit of varnish added to matt, also they weathered better with less colour fade / loss - I still have 92KA58  (tri-service but always RAF Germany) , also 90"  57KG59 Tornado Falklands full service.    92KA58  -  IMHO  nil IRR content & may be a Fleet enamel or some aircraft refinish  ??   Similar sus. with  57KG59.

My first car (1967) was a bog Morris Mini Minor manuf. 1962 or 63 , a total heap of £rap.  I then purchased a 1966 Austin 7 Mini  (deluxe with a 2" instrument each side of speedo head) , the engine was blown - so I purchased a ex-police Mini van that was bent BER , swop-out the engine & gearbox  .  Then I purchased a tripod from 3 qty. scaffold poles + a huge Yale Pullift, there was a trade in fitting engines & radiators from Austin A35 into Morris Minors.  By now my parents garden/paddock had the appearance of a scrap-yard.  I had people coming offering the raw material, I offered to take away their problems for conservative £  - so myself,old man & uncle would push these Mini up two planks into his bosses Thames Trader tipper truck that transported.  I had a few Mini VAN through my hands , I was a source for A Series stuff.  Often the vans were ex-police , AFAIK in 60's /70's Mini Van were all Ex-Works in  GREY - that was little more than a holding primer.  Grey van man days was prior to white van man.

If only you had  ERM   36RN62  , the problem would be solved , anyway here is the livery + Careers office on the door.

https://www.oxforddiecast.co.uk/products/mini-van-royal-navy-mv032

5 hours ago, Minivanjack said:

I’ve got a ex mod mini van as well, been a real pain to find any info about it in service, the mod transferred all their files to computer in the nineties and lost the lot when it crashed. Managed to get a copy of the MOD vehicle transfer certificate from the dvla, that’s about all I have on my van. Did a chassis search with the RLC and they have no records of it either although they did tell me it’s ex Army and not Navy as I previously thought. Had the ERM 22 RW 00 

May be worth investing in a British Motor Museum "Heritage Certificate" however the £ cost would buy you several PITA - rear suspension trumpet knuckle joint kits.

Looking at the well mangled head - that is seriously $hit grade and that would include the threads, hardly Unbrako.

I had mentioned possibility of jewel bearings , found this during coffee break from laying concrete project , seems very interesting - will have a thorough read-up later this evening.

http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf

I forget your VRM just now.  Certainly  --HG--  had  Km. clocks fitted, would have to check time-line change point  (IIRC up to 1979 , same as change to electrical grouped instrument cluster) - think it was with a  HF contract. So if your instruments are electrical then I would say original clock head was Kms.

Correct is with 'trip-reset'  - do you have ?      Km =  PRC2605  , I prefer the MPH =  RTC5034  (LR Refr. Nos)

LWT  specific cable = 579435

You need a split rubber bush & P clip to secure at g'box  & another at front end , these are important to maintain correct curvature & stop friction on outer Bowden.

The present OEM manuf. may supply spares direct  ?

https://www.caigauge.com/

Like you , I have opened a few speedo-head and found a rudimentary problem soon fixed.  Not with LR but had zooming pointers to max. out @ 5mph  - found grease gone up Bowden and got in air-gap between the pair of rotating disc (Eddy current) .

Seems you need a new glass seal ?     I used to get them & new glass from some specialist in Leeds - don't know if still in business, there are a few similar in UK who will stock Smiths. Such as Holden Classic & Complete Automobilist etc.  I think to get a new seal then it c/w the glass. Land Rover ISTR non-provisioned items.

It is a while since I hooked up a speedo head , however - your cable does not seem a genuine Land Rover part.  Non-gen are rubbish at both ends , often the drive end is not square , it is triangular (no names no pack-drill).  The head end (genuine) is grey plastic with a bayonet fix.  IIRC a little trigger with a catch hook then engages , the 'recessed ridge' you mention - the hook engages in the groove anywhere 360 degree.   I have not checked the part No. you quote but a S3 civvy cable is longer than a Lightweight one , it will work but you need the right curvature & secured to clear the exhaust front pipe.

Miles or Km (miles on inner dial) , depending on timeline , it could be branded Smiths or Jaeger and ISTR  Land-Rover  - all out of the same factory in Wales (after management buy-out - they go under another name).

Jewels :  jewels movement bearings ?    Often Jewels , to a LR person are according to the the small coloured lens jewels . yours should have  1. cold start  2. main beam warning. 3. oil pressure warning.  These vary among civvy / MOD  LR's .  You may even have a re-built head , correct face but movement off another -  a good clue , the  wheel revs per mile will be marked at the bottom, often they are re-calibrated for change to 7.50 tyres.  They are then remarked  on face, very tidy by hand with paint !     Exchange units can be built up to requirements using a mix. of parts.  There are plain head , nil jewel faces, your case could be one of these - don't forget these were used on other car makes too where warnings were all on the instrument panel.

IMHO  ,  you are not at the right place for all your queries , other than the WW2 military bolt-ons.   The civilian show scene for Minx / Rootes - Hillman is quite strong , however not so military.  There are specialist dealers / stockist who can answer your clutch / steering queries , parts & quote £ prices.  All you need are more or less 'fast movers' that will be re-manufactured.  The bellhousing may just need 180 degree rotation  ?   Better , join a Minx club / forum - there will be plenty of enthusiasts storing spare gearboxes & axles in a bottom of garden shed with leaking roof - some may offer a package of your needs. Living in Argentina , then your  £$ security is best via. a bona fide dealer

Apparently International Harvester & built  1946

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-53106441

You often see these bus in films , painted yellow and used as school bus.    Well my school bus was a pre-WW2  Bedford or in the main a pre-WW2  AEC ,  the company had double-decker AEC that had apparently been run into the earth in London area prior to their last gasp over 200 miles north.

Military content - obviously the helo-lift ,  were these K-5 originally designed & built for US military  ?

Check the vessel , there may be some factory marks on the shell ,  Design pressure/ Max. working pressure   + Test pressure.  If so important - I would expect to find some data.  Seems a good Tig weld procedure used - so probably is important.

Repeated proof testing not always sound idea , probably not required for lifespan (whatever that is) so + 25% seems realistic.  I would think the factory test would be  1.5 x the maximum working pressure for 1/2 hour.

On 6/12/2020 at 10:06 AM, David Herbert said:

I think it must be lying on its side and is actually a K60 (FV430 family) or L60 (Chieftain family) which are vertically opposed engines. The two crankshafts are geared together down one end of the engine. They are slightly out of phase with one set of pistons controlling the exhaust ports and the other set the inlet ports so it is rather more efficient than a conventional two stroke but has no cylinder head or gasket or valves. A very clever piece of design and pretty reliable once they gave up the multifuel requirement. L60s in particular were dreadful up to that point and at 104 hours it could well be toast !

David

Which fuel did the damage  ?

Just needs the bilges pumping out , fastest coble out of Blyth  !