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ruxy

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Posts posted by ruxy

  1. 1 hour ago, ltwtbarmy said:

    This isn’t a cab over axle. The bonnet is sitting behind the body. Also, looks like what might be a rear light pod is sitting just behind the bonnet, with Penman written on it.

    Yes , you are correct , I hadn't looked at the other photograph of bonnet in detail, the other photograph - the blue dazzel DP is doing what it is supposed to do.   Looking again at the Hotspur photograph (Land Rover by John Tippler (1996) , using imagination of bonnet in front of cab - clearly it confirms Hotspur.  Windscreen details differ slightly , along with vision holes for glazing & rifle ports - same , rear body detail seems different but only slightly.

  2. 16 hours ago, Chris Hall said:

    It was called the potato digger due to the action on re-cocking. There was an arm that projected downwards as the action moved rearward and this resembled the potato digging machines of the day. 
     

    I used to own a Colt 1898 with Enfield acceptance markings. We must have received a contract of them as there’s at least 2 more identical guns in the NFC. In WW2 we also received the Marlin version when we were desperate.

    Potato diggers of the day ,  steel wheel mounted ,  pre-hydraulic hitch  -  I  'un-planted'  acres mid-1960's  -  I only knew this machine as a "scratter"  ,,

  3. Stood diesel fuel abt. 10 years  , filter plugging - black gob , then I would suspect  -  microbial and / or  fungal contamination.    I only use proper cherry  + a bit of petrol in coldest winter, although I understand a blend with virgin Mazola is OK ,  it is the dodgy bio it may have been run on.

    Grey smoke , exhausting into near freezing damp atmosphere.  In summer good warm through and then take it to red line for a while & you can clear it.  Seen that so would anticipate - that is with vehicles not road taxed ,  waste of time until you can get it on the road for a good blast.

    • Like 1
  4. 2 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

    I would say that leak off pipe banjo bolt hole is correct as it is. Having been working on diesel engines for over 50 years, I see nothing unusual in this.

    I noticed a comment on the compression on a 2.5na not feeling much different to a 2.25 petrol engine, that may be so but the 2.25 diesel from memory was indirect injection and they run at a higher compression than the 2.5 direct injection, so harder to turn over by hand.

    Looking at the Haynes  book of lies  -  DIESEL  S2A & 3  ,1958  to 1985  (up to C Reg.)    the  cr is  23:1     //   (Petrol  8:1  2.1/4 Pet. )

    Looking at the   Haynes book of lies  -  Defender   1983 to 1995   (up to N Reg)

    10J  =  23:1

    12J and 19J  =  21:1

    200 TDi  and  300 TDi   =   19.5:1  +/-  0.5:1

    The point I am making , if you place a spanner on a 8:1 petrol and compare the required force to turn the engine over -  you can't expect that it needs as much extra force  as 2+  to  almost 3X  to turn a diesel (in good condition)  over.

     

     

  5. I don't think I have ever seen a banjo-bolt drilled through just one wall, the hole dia. looks about right.  I would say it is a manufacture fault - best option to confirm - buy a new bolt ,  drilling through both walls would hardly weaken ,  I doubt if one hole matches the cross-section area of the anulus  - that would cause some flow restriction BUT is it to create some back pressure requirement  ?     I doubt if any need on a spill-line return to tank  ?   One can only assume it was not a problem in the past ?

    If you compare the compression ratio petrol/diesel , you would think hand barring would be more or less impossible , it does not work like that ,  2.5na  seem little more  cr that a 2.1/4 pet.

    Stood a long time ,  what have you to loose adding some  Forte fuel additive (diesel treatment)  ,  don't  MOT stations do a force sale of the stuff with smokers & suggest go for a long motorway cruise and come back again , or come back with a mate & his non-smoker  LoL

     

    • Like 1
  6. 10..3.61  date insert's into the steel shell mould (master)  , typical thin-wall casting method using resin/sand mix.   Quite conclusive & you can see the date within the Serial branded number, play guessing games with the rest.

    I recall two or three locally late 1970's / early 1980's , in daily use but odd one did turn out at Classic car shows  -  always referred  to as a MUNGA,   I quite likes the body style & design however not the name -  I always told the owners to call them a  DKW.   I suppose at that time-line the Rolls Champ was becoming too desirable to use as a hack  ? 

    I doubt if there are more than several show vehicles in all UK presently.

    In those days - no benefit the internet to glean the origins ,of the origins of the name  MUNGA  ,  BUT thanks to Wiki  - now I know  :-

    The DKW Munga was a DKW-branded off-road vehicle built by Auto-Union in Ingolstadt, Germany. The name Munga comes from the German phrase Mehrzweck UNiversal Geländewagen mit Allradantrieb, which translates as "multi-purpose universal off-road car with all-wheel drive" Wikipedia

     

  7. 3 hours ago, oats and barley said:

    So what is a nice lightweight worth { not a Dutch diesel } with no petrol to put in it?

    I don't know ,  probably if the Gov. plans run their course then petrol pumps will start to get scarce in approx.  15 years  ?

    Tonight's BBC news was all about converting 750,000 homes p.a. off mains gas to  'GROUND Source'  heat pumps - £15,000 cost per home.  Approx. 12 years ago a relation had fitted a 'AIR Source' heat pump fitted along with keeping a spare unit in garage that another person had ripped out.  This relation is a instrument mechanic - so no fool ,  signed up to some subsidised scheme.   Cold weather , you run them all the time, dissatisfied think you can run them like gas/kero.     All I can say is the unit is BIG in the back yard , the fan is very noisy , if I were a neighbour I would be complaining to the council,  I don't know the driver wattage , meaning to check the plate - must be in excess of  1 hp  guestimate by size & fan dia. (must be 24")   ,  relation does agree his electrical bills are £  steeper , but a bit reluctant to tell..   GROUND sourse pump motor will have to be powered.     I have a small river passing thro. garden does not freeze over at -10C  ,  I have pondered a pumped heat exchanger recovery unit  DIY from my scrap-heap ,  experimental for large  shed/garage central heating ,  of course I would have a waterwheel powering the  genny to drive the DC pump motor ...

  8. A  growth area seems to be Biomass / CHP or CCHP  power stations where the bulk of the fuel is swathed willow , brash & woodchip/wood pellet (most shipped from Canada) along with any combustible $hit.    Burning tree-wood and even worse pelletized (heavy on power process) to facilitate bulk shipping - clean on the atmosphere  ??   they must have some scrubbing plant that will consume power.

    Renewables - Wind farms are a blot on the countryside , however the large scale schemes presently going into the North Sea are quite something, a new island to be created off Doggar Bank for the hubs, storage batteries the size of football fields, the downside of course is that the electricity generated will go to the highest £ bidders who have the sub-sea cables to countries other than the UK, so scaling up is to no national advantage.

  9. I often drive through Woodland , I suppose I must have noticed the large war memorial in the cemetery, never stopped to have a good look.  It has been in the local press this week that it is quite unique. Next time passing - will have to stop and take a few photographs.  

    The unique war memorial of Woodland, County Durham

    • Like 1
  10. 2 hours ago, LarryH57 said:

    A very rough quick measurement of the Rear U bolts was actually nearer to 7/16 inch.

    Also 10FM68 the ride is much better. Before its most recent service and change of springs, the Lwt used to bounce all over the road such that if I saw any oncoming traffic I had to slow right down to ensure I never bounced in to them. Since the work has been done the ride is much firmer and much nicer to drive, and it seems that I'm not always moving the steering wheel so much (like the do in the old 1930s B&W films!)

     

    When leaf springs stick solid  with rust , you may as well have a RSJ for a spring.  The first set of springs I changed , I raxed up as left them dry due to listening to people that knew , they claimed oil/grease attracted abrasive dirt.  These were sheep hill farmers regular on rough tracks from the valley floor, as well as my uncle a estate joiner on same terrain + grouse beat gun-bus,  he had his lordships cast - so their springs were always working well.  Irregular off-road - the best investment is a can of aerosol  3 in 1 every few months.

  11. 1 minute ago, LarryH57 said:

    Correction! They used the existing U bolts on the rear axle as they are in good order and returned the new ones. I measured the thickness of the bolts on the Lwt and they were about 12mm (not 18mm?) So I guess they are no better or worse than before.  As for off road I dont do any apart from round the arena at WPR or occasionally drive up an unmade up farm track. As for testing with a load, guess I will load her up with some ammo boxes full of tools and test the nuts for tightness afterwards.

    The 18mm  TEST  is quite good to confirm if 7/16" BSF ,   if you CAN'T  get a 18mm spanner/socket on  (other than a few 18mm , 6 point of wall drive type) - then they must be 12mm (that is 19mm spanner size).   Like I said - your time-line the factory @ Solihull had changed to 12mm..

  12. 26 minutes ago, oats and barley said:

    Many years ago at a show at Bleadon Somerset,I saw a guy running his Explorer from the big orange Calor canister strapped to the side step. around the same period a friend turned up one day on a moped running on some screen wash pipe and a gas lighter refill taped to the handlebars. Also there were the two plumbers in the Thames van who ran out of petrol, took the gun off the hose on their gas bottle, lifted the engine cover stuck the pipe in the carb, some adjustment on the bottle and off they went. Now, back to the original post, are we all going to be left with a load of depreciating museum exhibits ?

    Well - the gov. is aware of the 'game-changer'  for land based & North Sea wind turbines, this is the football pitch sized storage batteries.  Also there is a not so % efficient "compressed air" (from the atmosphere) stored at low temperature.  There is a prototype about to be built ,  they release the air to drive turbo-alternators on grid demand & blow the bottles up again using electric main drivers for the compressors).  People are already buying E cars in larger quantity this year, son 2 is about to give up his 4x4 BMW for a Tesla.  I think they will have more trouble selling the bread-N-butter  E cars & hybrids.   The latest IMHO is just Boris bullying the population to drop fossil fuel & bio & they will obey to political pressure.   Another  BIG  headline & it will take minds of BREXIT  & Corona-19  ..

     

  13. 3 hours ago, Tony B said:

    I now have a V8 Discovery 2 on LPG. At 69.9 p a litre .Practically the maitince is no diffrent to a straight petrol. Performance is such that the only way I know I'm on gas is by the dash light.  Fuel Consumption , I haven't really been able to work it out. Problems, NGK LPG plugs , at £18 each! Fortuntley will run on the normal ones.  Finding some where to fuel is the pain. The reason I bought mine is it was cheap and I have a local LPG station. There seems to be no difinitive info on where you can get Autogas in UK. Problem with Disiel is that the LPG runs 30% of the power all the time. Loose LPG loose power, that's what the experts tell me.

    Around  1998 to Y2K  both Ford & Vauxhall were selling factory "dual-fuel" & diesel engine models at exactly the same £ as a straight petrol of comparable power.  The future of forecourt LPG was looking good , many cars were retro-fitted with gas kits,   then a few "specialists"  formed a 'trade-association' to lobby Parliament for registration for  Gas-Safe as if they were Corgi.   Then the conversion business seemed to die a death.  DIY kits also seemed to go from the marketplace, by then there were some good ones of Italian manufacture and reasonable £.

    It seems to me that in the coming 10 year interim - due to demand, that there will be a great increase in Autogas forecourt supply (in preparation).    Five years ago , I went off kero for central heating on to a gas main that was laid at the other side of the road  15 years earlier under British Gas (under BG  I was offered totally free £ instalation up to the meter - I should have taken it up).  For years I had considered a Propane bulk tank for heating but it was £ very costly to run using it.  I know of people who are fueling up with Autogas from their bulk tank , without the heating side - that would be £ more costly than a forecourt.

    • Like 1
  14. 4 hours ago, CMP-Phil said:

    Propane conversion, many old petrol engines are likely candidate's for conversion to Propane. 

     

    Cheers Phil  

    15 years ago - there were quite a few diesel engine (esp. Transit) conversions to Propane  'fumigation'  , you don't hear of it now , well I haven't  .

  15. 39 minutes ago, LarryH57 said:

    The springs and shock absorbers have been changed.

    Interestingly the garage used the 562635  U bolts on the rear after saying they did not fit. I never got to speak with the mechanic though, but the U bots look tight enough to me and are bolted through the square plate underneath.

    I got all the stuff removed returned to me.

    Well =  it goes like this -  if you look at a Series 3 Civvy parts book RTC9841CE  dated June 1998 - it gives the early part numbers and the later metric part numbers.  There are more complications that I will not go into, basically the late Lightweight was only the same as a late S3 civvy regarding axles - when the rationalized axles were fitted.  It did not go through the "hybrdid stage(s)".  The S3 Civvy as basic never had reinforced axle casings like the L'wt (prior to rationalized).

    However the later S3 Civvy used the metric spring bottom plates  (rear) LH  =  NRC3898  &   (rear) RH  NRC3897.  

    ---------------------

    Microfiche  RTC9968FA  JUNE  1993

    Is the parts list specific for S3   LIGHTWEIGHT  (I know it is not perfect)

    What it states is that   NRC3898 +  NRC3897   are used , Ref. to footnote 3 ,  this states  APPLICABLE  to vehicles built from1980  commencing  REAR axle serial number  20412996.

    ==========

    I  have additional Solihull detailed info.  this states  Fitted from  Axle No.  20412996  up to  20414204 (this would be the last of the L'wt axle prior to fitting of the rationalized axle).

    --------------------------------------------

    You can't fit a 12mm U bolt into a Imperial bottom plate because it has a hole too small, the hole dia. difference being  1/32"+    You can convert the bottom plates by drilling / reaming the holes out.

    IMHO - what you have is small dia.  U bolts in BIG holes ,  that is not good, especially if you off-road.

    As I said a few days ago - the practical examination.  Use a socket/spanner , wire brush and if no heavy rust  TEST  -  if a 18mm is a good fit on hex. nuts - then imperial  7/16"  BSF  ,   if a 19mm is very sloppy this further confirms.  If you defo. can't get a 18mm on - then this confirms the U bolts are 12mm.

    ================

    If it were my truck - then I would want it correct ,  it could be that in a past life it had a earlier rear axle / U bolts & bottom plates fitted & that possibility is not so slim.    I actually purchased direct Ex-MOD  a  --KC--  & it came with a early front axle having 10" brake drums , instead of the rationalized  11" drums , the idiot(s) hadn't even fitted the correct dia. rear slave cylinders to get the braking balance correct (as well as other things).

    I hope the garage settled the springs , drove it around the block with spring bolts slightly loose , then loaded the tub with about 1/2 load  300 lbs / 2 persons  /  paving slabs/bags of cement as ballast ,  drove it around the block again and then finally torqued up.

    -----------

    U bolts coming loose has always been a problem, the bottom plates also end up with worn/elongated holes.  S2A days  hex. nut locker plates were used/ U bolts drilled for pins & slotted nuts.  Early S3 first used a all metal self-locking nut , Aerotight style but deeper (more threads the better) , then Nylocks.    The  7/16" BSF thread is the better, the 12mm  U bolts  IIRC are in fact M12 (course) to enable cheap Nylocks to be used.

     

  16. Just now, ruxy said:

    What does the tag affixed over the hasp state  ?

    I understood that tool-box was only provided with a single sliding tray  ?

    I have one , but the paintwork is a bit more chip resistant blue , it was shot-blast and went through a automatic paint plant of a power tool manufacturer.  That seems the common design.

    I also have one just the same but with again just a single sliding tray. I can't say I have ever noticed a broad arrow , date or any makers mark.  It is white over a slightly rusty original paint , I intend to strip & re-paint  OD or DBG.          Along with a similar but larger very military looking slight rusty tool-box finished in OD,  again no broad arrow - but marked  TROW   1975 , it does have a very strange hasp that also seem to be a lid prop ?

    PS   The one painted white - the tray goes across in the long direction - only one I have seen this design.

  17. What does the tag affixed over the hasp state  ?

    I understood that tool-box was only provided with a single sliding tray  ?

    I have one , but the paintwork is a bit more chip resistant blue , it was shot-blast and went through a automatic paint plant of a power tool manufacturer.  That seems the common design.

    I also have one just the same but with again just a single sliding tray. I can't say I have ever noticed a broad arrow , date or any makers mark.  It is white over a slightly rusty original paint , I intend to strip & re-paint  OD or DBG.          Along with a similar but larger very military looking slight rusty tool-box finished in OD,  again no broad arrow - but marked  TROW   1975 , it does have a very strange hasp that also seem to be a lid prop ?

  18. Then the answer - place them on Ebay - something like  :-

    RARE  (very)  'genuine' rear-axle  'U' bolts  NEW  ,  early 7/16" BSF  imperial threaded - suitable for Rover 1  (S2A)  Lightweight and early Series 3 only.

    Only 4 qty remaining -  BIN   -   £5.55  each  & P&P  £4.22  ,  multiple purchase shipping discount available..

    ------

    also  -   Lightweight Series 3 ,,  full  vehicle set  (8 qty)  of used but serviceable   METRIC   'U' bolts  -  £10 + £10  P&P.

    also  Lightweight Front & Rear springs ,  minor rust tarnish & remaining serviceable  -  £20  (collection only)..

     

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