ruxy
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Posts posted by ruxy
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For starters - something WRONG
562635 = early IMPERIAL threads 7/16" UNF , no wrong BSF , because if I have to bray to undo - I use a Snap-on 18mm deep impact socket.
NRC prefix U bolts are 12mm metric
The spring bottom holes are early/late drilled for imperial or metric - this is the decider (assuming some PO has never enlarged).
Remind me of your VRM --XX-- and I will check out ,, when in doubt - test with a 19mm spanner/socket or a 18mm spanner/socket.
You probably don't have BS/Whit. kit
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Compressors / receivers. Air receivers being sold for quite a few years will be plated CE. Buying used , then older ones will be to BS. ISTR the only main change was by additional welded pads to the shell for the motor/compressor platform. Used - often not correctly drained of condensate , you can get internal corrosion & often the screwed inspection bung on small receivers seemed to get smaller.
The bigger tank - the better but unless a vertical model takes up more floor space.
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Compressors - comparisons , always compare like with like on spec. sheets. Such as 10 cfm , does not mean a great deal , 10 cfm FAD (free air delivery ) - that means ALL..
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WARNING - dismantling , such springs can have "stored energy" that releases when dismantled - something you can hardly believe until you witness the leaves fly for yards in every direction. I clamp up using very strong 4" & 5" G clamps (£ costly forged steel ones) and carefully release then - hammering the leaves as I go.
Salvage - it depends on the amount of rust wastage. I used to put then through a conveyor shot-blast plant. Chalk the correct camber on the concrete floor and quite simply - set some sheet metal rolls and pass the leaves through cold. Then butter them with graphite or MoS2 grease.
Hammering the clips clear , you don't want to loosen the rivets , I used to wrap plumbers mats around the spring & get torch heat in quick.
The clips (forged) are the PITA , if I do any more then I would always convert the clips to bolt & tube. This makes future grease up very easy. However the grease hardly lasts , you can use a wedge expander. I now find the best way is every 6 months of regular use , lay cardboard under springs and use a aerosol 3 in 1 spray can , first having jacked up the chassis to hang the axle & spread the leaves. You probably now have some suspension for the first time - keep it !
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3 hours ago, LarryH57 said:
I am having the leaf springs changed on my Lwt, but I wonder if the old Lwt leaf springs any use to anyone? They are the originals from 1980 but area bit flat so the vehicle doesn't ride quite level and this was mentioned on the MOT.
You probably don't have anywhere dry to store them & in any case no wish. They do have their uses, being 7 leaf HD the leaves are thicker IIRC 7mm , the springs will still have some curvature & probably some leaves little rust wastage. The leaves can be re-set cold if not too bad, shortened if required to replace broken leaves. These HD leaves are good to slip a extra 'helper' into sad regular springs.
The main leaf & 2nd (wrap around, also called a military leaf) , you don't see the poser usage now. often on a 109" SW a front & rear main & 2nd were bolted on the front bumper using the shackles , as if for a Sahara trip. The clips can be re-forged to modify as the superior early bolted clip type. The centre bolt (special dowel bolt) , they do occasionally snap - keep as spares (x4 worth at least £10).
I suppose for max. recycling if you are a green and doing a riverbank reinforcement (self) - then what is left - you embed within concrete , along with the odd (chopped up - the chromed steel mesh is super stuff ) Lidl / CooP trolley that is beached following a flood tide.
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Apparently in Singapore such misuse of lift cars - offenders are automatically locked inside & they are returned to ground to await the polis. Portaloo should fit such detection devices and mount the Loocab on a rotating trunion for a minimum of 10 x 360's (minor offence) before it finally comes to rest unside-down with the door locked & only the polis can use a 'emergency' release key !
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Limpet mine found on the seabed near the USS Maine ?
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The OP query was in the main about considering a ANGLE Impact , and it does seem they now exist (as opposed to nut-runners).
The main problem as I see it is that these modern better make 10 volt re-chargeable - they must be like any battery , you work them -then they have a recuperation period that you must permit by resting between hammering away , otherwise they will sooner flatten. A poster states he would expect a monring's work - but this can't possibly be near continuous usage. I would have to learn more about this.
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Just search on say OVER CENTRE BUCKLE , stainless or galvanized , different makes - slight differences - you should find yours. Used to secure spare wheel straps on Rally Cars and MOD Land Rover bonnet mounted spare wheel.
Trailer parts catalogues etc.
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5 minutes ago, G506 said:
That looks like a Glover Webb body to me
Yes, agree - it does have the 'look'.
I had pondered on Stonefield (Scotland) , some pre-pro that had stood around 40 years and then somebody had done the DP (that does seem a recent re-finish).
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That's probably adequate. I need to compare a few data sheets .
I like the durability of industrial air-tools that I have come across , mainly Atlas Copco & Desoutter , drills, nut-runners & screwdrivers - hundreds of them suspended on reelers. Even is the oilmen neglected the mist lubricators they ran on and on.
However - I can't recall the assembly lines using impact drivers , or any angle tool.
I have often intended to lash out abt. £200 for a Makita or Hitachi - small angle drill - they are very nice drills, I have a large Makita angle drill - I don't often find the need to use it , but it's very good when I do. Purchased almost new off Ebay for a fraction of the going £ for a new one..
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7 hours ago, utt61 said:
I have recently generally moved from using air impact wrenches to Milwaukee M18 cordless wrenches, which are excellent. I have a range from 3/8" SqDr up to 1" SqDr, and I haven't yet found anything that an air tool or corded electric will do that these won't. I have a 3/8" Milwaukee right angle impact wrench, and it is a genuine impact wrench not a nut runner, but the 3/8" tools are relatively low torque and their suitability will rather depend on the size of your project.
For most vehicle work up to Landrover sort of size, I find the 1/2" drive most useful, it gets used a lot! Larger than this, 3/4" is most useful with 1" in extreme cases. The 1" tool, even though battery powered, is capable of inflicting great damage on things including the user, and actually outperforms my Master 35 petrol impact wrench in terms of breakout torque. An awesome tool.
The Draper corded 240 volt "Storm Force" I purchased this summer , it is quite a weighty object (that is a penalty) , however it does pack quite a punch for 1/2" drive. Obviously - I could sit on the drive under a car , as I did and slog it out (as I did) , it was my own fault (a senior , not thinking moment) that I wasted much time and ended up using a angle grinder - so in a way I could have saved my £70 , however it is good to have it up my sleeve for the future. Normally using a air impact of DeVilbiss JGA with a full air-cap , I would run my single phase compressors in tandem , the Broomwade 10 cfm FAD on 'continuous' air-governor setting , and Hydrovane 10 cfm FAD on 'auto' that way I don't have two 3 HP motors trying to start on on a 40A supply. This is the problem with a home 1 phase supply , I find anything under 15 cfm is a waste of time , shot-blasting starts at 15 cfm.
So - for me the almost instant carefree use of a 240 volt corded impact hammer is good.
So - the question I would like to put to you - if I were to purchase the best 18 volt rechargeable impact driver - just how long would I be able to use it from fully charged - until I need to put it on re-charge ?
I don't know ? possibly I should consider a rechargeable because for approx. £250 - it looks like it will be the air Ingersoll Rand..
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I have CP 1/2" and 3/8" Impact gun style & nut runners (air-ratchet) , made in Japan abt. 35 years ago. At best as some used to describe as 'automotive' rather than 'industrial' , OK for occasional use (I hardly use the nut runners). Earlier this year I decided on a corded 240 volt 82994 Storm Force for £70 . Comparing specs. odd ones had a bit more torque & blows/min. however they did not have the reputation ? of Draper , they seem all made in China. It is OK.
I have short=listed 1/2" air Impact :-
Ingersoll Rand 2130XP & Clark SA6002 (that is a bit cheaper) , to buy a MAC or Snap-on the top$ name & £ would probably be x2. and in any case still pondering.
The best rechargeable ones are quite good & best seem to be brushless motors now, however I don't feel I have the work for battery that may deteriorate, both my sons don't go along with that - they buy the best rechargeable and don't worry about batteries = saying the "memory" problem no longer exists. Younger son about to move from BMW to Tesla , he still has his Subaru Imprezia - Special limited Edition on blocks in his garage to polish LoL. too much £££
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You will have a problem finding a RIGHT ANGLE Impact Wrench , they tend to ne NUTRUNNERS. Effective 1/2" drive IMPACT wrenches , to be good - then they start abt. £200
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I can imagine the name of the firm , the one who offers "offers a free wheel alignment check" , that is - providing it is all OK to their satisfaction LoL. This time last year , if they found even the slightest misalignment - the fee started at £40. I took the car to another 'national chain' - Same laser check on a 4-post , and simple spannering tie-rod end adjustment was only £20 . As soon as I finished my coffee at McDonalds , I collected and immediately knew it was £20 well spent.
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2 hours ago, LarryH57 said:
I still fail ( pardon the pun) why giving false warning helps the motorist ?
My theory is that , the examiners don't have the time to check what the material of brake lines is. Over the last few years they have included a few extra time consuming tasks , AFAIK the last being to check the DIN tow socket is working correct , using a special tester / trailer board adds time. There is a bit of £ price competition for MOT 's locally. The time they remain logged on to the HQ computer has not increased. They stay on for allocated time (inc. the guv. for tea break) - so they can't be accused of shoddy practices.
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I am very wary about causing damage by wire-brushing brake lines , how about this Patented Design & Exclusively to Sealey. I don't think I would use one , managed the scratch test so far without.
Actually - I don't like these brake pipe replacement kits with copper lines & brass tubing nuts (I have known brass tube nuts to split). ISTR years ago copper tube was banned because it was too inflexible and fatigue cracked. I use Kunifer (Cupro-Nickel) - lasts for ever , but the BZP plated steel tubing nuts of course rust. BUNDY does have a few advantages , the TERNE coated has a very long life , I have not used zinc coated for years , 1976 when I re-piped a VW Beetle , I knew I was going to get shot of.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bundy_tube
I make up my own brake lines , I have a couple of Sykes-Pick. kits and another very similar that I purchased new 1970 , the tooling is identical but the vice is far superior (I think S-P copied).
Several years ago , I was in a LR franchise dealership at spares & they had loads of S3 11" front cylinder(s) + bent pipe to jump hose on a give away £ offer , so I purchased a stash. Just out of interest I obtained some BRITPART ones for comparison. ISTR that I came to the conclusion the BRITPART ones were better , they both seemed to be TERNE coated & IIRC the BRITPART ones were with that green coating , not plastic - seems more a heavy paint - you often see this now on many makes of car. I remember 1968 travelling home on the upstairs deck of a AEC double-decker with a genuine MINI front to rear brake pipe - it must have been at least 8ft long, the conductress would not permit me to travel downstairs , but I got it up the spiral stair OK - Mini pipes were the real rubbish , must have been zinc plated a few microns.,
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Since my last post here DHL delivered a package (tool) with it was a Sealey Vehicle Service - Catalogue 2020 , so I had a thumb through it (as you do). Page 4 - their MOT 'compliant; Brake & Fuel Pipe Inspection Tool - watch the video https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637204680/brake-fuel-pipe-inspection-tool
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It is just a standard phrase , example I have repeated annually Focus now 18 years old. AFAIK - the examiners test (if he suspects) - is to scratch the surface of the brake line - if it is shines - fine = PASS , however if it is BLACK (corrosion) = fail.
Normally if the steel Bundy is not showing rust staining (that he needs to see) to justify scraping off the zinc coating) - then he would continue with the visual only. Modern cars the plated Bundy is is given more protection that could be PVC , especially under the wheel-arches.
OK , I greased a brake line near the diesel tank , difficult to access (for change), however I know it is still sound. If I had not applied grease several years ago then by now it would probable be a fail.
The engine is now 140,000 miles + , so as long as it holds up - I will keep putting it through the test - cheapest motoring for me - ever , period. I did smash a spring , actually - the son's brake test following carrying 14 bags of cement 20 miles when other merchants were Covid closed. So - new springs on each corner , the rears were a PITA as I had to chop through the well rusted lower wishbones (actually they should have been a MOT fail at previous test - but passed). I also carried 12 bags of cement in the 18 year old Xsara Picasso - but the springs were all changed 4 years ago. If I had not been working on the 109" , then I would have just put 30 to 40 bags of cement in the tub.
If he can't see for grease/grime then he needs a ar$e cover. I knew a garage owner with MOT station , regular customers for service , he always misted with a light oil over brake lines, open handbrake Bowdens, and areas of body known for rust problems and MOT failures. He was old skool mechanic , I often looked under cars on his ramps and was always impressed how he preserved his regular customers vehicles - most were probably never aware or bothered.
A car PASS , means nothing after you leave the MOT station , it is not like equipment covered by such as LOLER Regs, where a PASS means it has to be (in the opinion of the competent examiner) remaining "serviceable" until the next examination due date.
Wording is :-
- Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material both front to rear (1.1.11 (c))
- Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material both front (1.1.11 (c))
- exhaust middle section deteriorated
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It is one thing using a MOT examiners 'approved' hammer , and sounding with a 1/4 lb ball pein. Of course this can only be done with owners permission & he is present - preferably he is doing the demonstration where you indicate.
--KB-- chassis steel is not great , probably KA to KD is worst of all, I blame the bartering with Leyland by the Cloggies of cheap high scrap content Belgian steel that was difficult to unload.. British Steel workers went on strike over this abt. 1977 - they tried to explain.
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34 minutes ago, bigduke6 said:
£4500 winning bid, about £5700 with fees....
£5700 + approx. £2000 for a new galv. chassis (if not sound) , best with a new replacement chassis than cut-N-shut repair , because the remainder deserves it , possibly it needs a new set of upholstery £.
Abt. £8000 for something still quite original and sound + a £valuation north of £10000 , a better proposition than buying a cheap wreck and throwing £££ at the project . They don't often come available.
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I purchased the LRO Issue 4 , April this year for the 'feature' , first LRO I have purchased for many years - reading it was ludicrous and made me squirm, I didn't bother reading the other pages. The £30K is a bit optimistic.
It was in service 'winterized' , the owner said he had the windscreen and side-screen demister nozzels but had not got around to fitting them. Other than the heat-exchanger , there are just a few oddments of it's past history extant. I suppose as 12 volt - it may have had a TUUAM box on the wing - more like glitter.
The white paint overall , glam. blow-job has a very Waltish appeal to some I suppose. Actually - as far as I am able to establish , normally it would be 2/3 NATO Green 1/3rd matt black , entering a tree-line or rocks with snow , then the 2/3 NATO Green would be 1/2 painted with arctic white matt EMULSION , then entering full snow conditions - all external parts would be coated with the EMULSION.
Be that as it may, it would take quite a few £££ to fully winterize as it should be , preferably without the white paint or emulsion. In the mag. the owner describes - QUOTE - We gave the chassis 20 coats of agricultural machinery paint to protect it.
Certainly IMHO , any LWT that anyone paying half this asking price would automatically obtain a engineers report in respect of considerations as a 88" basic utility . Apparently prior to resto. it changed hands for £2700 , that says it all for the raw material.
I cant understand why this LWT has been punted for most of this year at £30K asking , it is not obtainable . It may in a way be related to the supposed Ebay SCAM , possibly if £7000 is taken - then there is no SCAM - as the buyer will get what he has purchased . . My 'desktop' valuation would be well under £10K as/is , actually nearer £5K. The LWT presently on a thread about Cheffins auction(s) , regardless of it's condition & final bid price it achieves will be a far better vehicle for £ spent IMHO.
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It is a xxKBxx Lightweight , photograph indicates all good , BUT the chassis would need a thorough examination . Details given , comparing to photograph - all good. Chassis depending - the Estimate sale price is ££ very low @ 2.1/2 to £3,000 + 6% * VAT BECAUSE this is not a dog , buy a dog and the heavy repairs and parts £cost such as a almost unobtainium vent-panel will rack the ££££ north.
If the chassis needs changing - the estimate is still Fair - because the swop job would give a min. £8 to 10 K valuation. .
The MOT history = very good , no advisories on chassis, however note my comment.
Seems a genuine Ex- MVS minta that has been looked after by a enthusiast for the last 20 years , RARE.
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https://www.gov.uk/browse/driving/number-plate
Ask this lot , then forward their reply to your CHP office..
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36 minutes ago, oseveno said:
Sorry for not responding, my notifications stopped for some reason. It is a fast attack vehicle, the 3 seater dune buggy from desert storm. There are no numbers on the frame or motor so I cant get it checked out.
Desert Storm - which Op. by that name was over 40 years ago ?
ISTR the SAS did start off with VW buggy LSV over 40 years ago.
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Are old Lwt leaf springs any use to anyone?
in I may be stupid, but......
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OK , you are in real luck because I have 48HG31 and 50HG75 from that batch FVE22A/115 most important is that your truck is FVE22A/115/Item 4 BUILT May to Sept. 1980 , so I have the factory build up sheets dated June 1980.
This is the contract where many axle ./ brake changes as progressive towards fitting of 'rationalized axles' .
Your axles are in fact 'Half-way house' , I call them hybrids , you have the oil catchers and other changes - BUT are NOT to fully 'rationalized spec. regarding half-shafts , hub end caps etc. However you still have 10" front brake drums BUT with later (expensive top $ ) stub-axles that incorporate the oil seal collar (runner) , they use the later twin lip hub oil seal. The earlier stub-hubs are better because the collars are £ cheap and easily replaced when worn - such is progress.
It details the LHD & RHD axle Serial numbers , I doubt if you have a note of.
However - it seems you need 16 qty. Nylock nuts M16 originally Pt. No. 810502 (subject of supercession - so shop around the number(s)).
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Front axle U bolts
1 qty. NRC5002
3 qty. NRC5007
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Rear axle U bolts
4 qty. NRC3886
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I have always fitted 'genuine' U bolts , because there is /was lots of aftermarket rubbish out there. I keep a small stock so last purchased prior to Y2K.
What you don't want is machine threaded U bolts (the clue is normally the bright steel of the threads). You need rolled threads , the clue the thread outer dia. will be a bit larger than the shank. The threads will probably be oxide finished - same as shank. I think you will find the BRITPART U bolts will be rolled & probably identical in all respects to those provided by a franchise LR dealer @ a fraction of the £. I have been meaning to buy a BRITPART U bolts as a sample to check this for future ref.
I intend soon to change the springs on a KB L'wt , almost certainly I am opting for Std. shocks & springs (civvy basic) , will use the BRITPART ones claimed as the Superior made in Spain & was OEM to Santana. I have used these before - good, and the ends of the leaves are curled over (I hope still) - this is to stop dig-in wear to the adj. leaf..
I was going to try a full set of pro-comp 2000 shocks with all parabolic by Santana , however decided I wanted the rear (helper) leaves . I could have got them for £40 early this year but UK importer has ceased business. My fault - I should have got them with the kit. This is not a rivet-counter project - it's getting a 5mb 2286 diesel engine + other thingies.