ruxy

I see -  your mention of  "chains"   -  is that a pair of chains , one each side of draw-bar to limit articulation & in theory prevent a snake  ?

So  ,   43.12  m.p.h.    not much ,   I have a pothole in front of my entrance approx. 2ft x 3ft  & getting bigger presently 3" / 4"  deep but increasing in size & depth.  Adopted road and  30 m.p.h.  limit.   No problem for Defenders & Disco.   - they go through no bother at up to abt.  60 m.p.h.   and towing trailers , often with livestock  (horse transporters go slower).   Through the topping and the  16" wheels are now throwing out the 40mm ballast sub. base.    

Best to keep well clear when full of water  !

I can't get my head around the road surface problem you describe ,  seems a step fresh laid between near & offside wheels  ?   the vehicle steering thrown crossing the step  ?

How many  m.p.h.    ?

Always best to state the  military  VRM  (registration for road)  / vehicle age.  You may have a later  90A  genny (transistorized) set-up.  This affects position of genny panel & shunt etc.

The RED and BLACK  screw own connections (knurl plastic knobs)  are your Radio Station connection terminals - therefore at 24 volt.  I assume you are after a smooth 12 volt connection  NOT  24 volt , in that case the drain will be light - I would just connect with a in-line fuse to one of the starting batteries.

Often , most often - these  RED and BLACK knobs are missing important thingies ,  a guard / retaining plate for the terminals - if you have just a couple of threaded studs protruding  from the box , then best to guard or you may end up welding  !

2 hours ago, ploughman said:

A bit ironic.

"Where does an In Flight Refueller get refuelled?

It seems they drop into Italy for a fast turnaround , this time Valencia to brim the tanks with cheap aviation kero spirit. 

2 hours ago, wally dugan said:

There should not be any problems if all the documents are present for the DVLA last year a friend applied for historic status his vehicle was  released in the mid sixties and was not registered for the road as it was used on a local estate by the game keeper until it was replaced for a more modern type of vehicle. The original sale release document was lost over the years but a copy of the  record  card showing when and were it was sold along with proof of year manufacture  along with other supporting  evidence was enough for the DVLA . This was done by both of us we did not get any club to verify the  documentation  as copies of all the sources  were attached may be he was lucky or the man dealing with it was in a good mood or he had some idea of what it was ?

 

Thanks ,  I have a few stored since late last century and early this century , manuf.   1979  to 1984.   Have  'Release Note'  and auction/sales receipts.  I suppose it is not a totally unusual situation to Post Office  ?

Yes , you have it correct  "sound"   (not noise)   -  just like a Deltic diesel.

On 2/3/2021 at 1:54 PM, wally dugan said:

What ruxy says is correct if a vehicle reaches 40 old on  the  1 st  of april 2020 you have to wait until after the 1st of april  2021 as  a example

Wally - will there be  "administrative"  difficulties in  -  FIRST  registration DIRECTLY  into 'Historic status'    ?       

No injuries to yourself I hope  ?        Did the trailer flip you ?     I see you have been using one of those spurious origins combi. ring & ball hitches rather than a D-B  pintle of proper NATO design for ring only - that I understand is standard equipment with Oz. military Perentie.

I till have my  35 year +  Chloride   resistance-bank  "drop-tester"  ,  handy tool still.  I suppose you could kill a very small and totally weak battery , in fact tyre/battery concerns by use of 'misadventure' used to boost their sales by leaving their probes on a bit too long.  Apparently the motorist would be back in a few days/weeks for a replacement.

In the days of screw top cells & periodic top-up ,  it was common practice with commercial operators to drain off the electrolyte with a follow up flush to wash out all the detritus, then re-fill and re-charge.    I don't know if the present low/nil maintenance batteries are lifetime clean of detritus ?   If not then this will be a cause of 'end of all practical life'  ,  the other is that the older the battery , then the soft sulphation sets into the hard sulphation ,   some tablet cure may cure ?      Probably time to buy a new battery ,  I have had a Continental Tudor (Exide)  last 14 + years from new , failure was my fault - I should have coupled a maintainer trickle charger when I stopped using the car for 2 - 3 week spells..

2 hours ago, LarryH57 said:

I would have run the vehicle's engine if I was not prevented from getting access. Can I claim on the Government as compensation or get anything back for the upset of sending a relatively new battery for scrap. 

BTW if I charge the battery in parallel and the dead battery comes to life will it ever be back to normal? 

Also are those battery booster boxes (like the AA use) any good on a dead battery?

Worth a try , a newish battery can withstand a drop to  10.5/11.5 volt (flat) better than a old battery,  also a newer battery stands up better to sulphation , therefore a full recovery is more probable. I would first try a 'soft-start' using such as a Ultimate charger that incorporates a "pulse charge" to recharge flat batteries . £14 at Lidl  (and fully automatic)  - my older BC1  / BC2 Draper Intelligent and maintainers are now more or less redundant.

I think battery  'boosters' are quite harsh but OK for occasional emergency use, more possiblity to plate / seperator  distortion - I always use a spare battery and jump-leads.

I use a  RING  Smart charger with analyser  ,   because you need to know what capability the battery has for holding the stated CCA.     A battery that can't be reconditioned above approx.  70%  whilst it remains serviceable under some conditions , it can be totally useless on starting a high demand application - such as a diesel engine (the immediate drain is too much to handle).

Conventional wisdom is that a good lead acid battery is  charged at terminal voltage  12 to 12.5 ,   however such a battery at 70% capacity  when between  12.2 and 12.4 volts is useless.     Between  14 & 14.5  volts the same battery would show no problems at all.   Regular journey with a good alternator and this  70% of a battery will show 14.7 volts.   (15 volts is a overcharge situation).

With a RING Smart charger ,  a new battery should when charged show  100% capacity.   Modern cars with alarm and processor on'ish with Ign. key out ,  it is a good as a parasitic drain if left without a run out for a few days.  If it is not a total PITA - such as re-set radio code , clock, date /time etc.  - then disconnect / reconnect at the battery, if you don't then sulphation will start and  'maintenance'  trickle will be unable to achieve  100%  and the slide down has started - this is why you need a good modern intelligent microprocessor (fully automatic) left coupled to the battery  -  I use a few cheap but good  (£14 @  Lidl)  Ultimate Speed - good for a heavier re-charge , however without that all important capacity analyser.

Don't cut it too fine.  Measure twice  - before you cut with the Stihl saw !       Obviously you can't do a practical check prior.      You seem to have a slight drive down incline to water step gully  -  been there  ,,    you need to do a desk-top exercise , establish gradient fall in relationship to garage FFL  (finished floor level)  , then superimpose truck section on drawing to see if there is a striking point. 

http://www.roverworld.com/Downloads/Military-110-Supp-Parts-Cat.pdf

Have a look at the Matrix ,  if not original  British MOD vehicle then you will not be able to read the specification of additional  "bolt-on(s) "  to the basic specification.

I would say all is 12 volt other then the 24 volt genny , Radio harness etc.

It will be  a  12 volt / 24 volt  FFR  , not a 24 volt FFR

16 hours ago, attleej said:

All marks of Antar have worm rear axles (combined with an epicyclic gear train).  When you down hill, the load will push you faster and the revs will increase just the same as any other axle, as Andy Pugh says.  In some situations, if you are not careful, you can serious over rev the engine.  The revs can go through the roof very quickly because of the 14:1 reduction.

The ratio of the worm drive in an axle is always arranged so that the vehicle can speed up when going down hill on the over-run.  If this was not the case either the axle and the wheels would lock up and cause a terrible skid or something would break.

 

John

I would expect the mass of the epicyclic rotating will act as as an extra  flywheel.

2 hours ago, paulob1 said:

explain...

Black squiggle often associated with a  Balkenkreuz

It seems the spare carried will have to conform to steer   ?    

Hardly a code / cipher ,   most are just Month & date  (don't recall seeing anything other)   and that is all ETRTO  (or whatever they now call themselves now, post BREXIT - I suppose we still pay lip-service)      eg    0984   would be Sept. 1984

2 hours ago, Enigma said:

Wish I had a garage.😪

Do you live on a canal houseboat  ?

2 hours ago, Richard Farrant said:

It is a Tomcar 570BMV 4x2 utility and cast date was 2012

Obviously it was never to be a contender for replacement of the Wolf XD fleet - have you heard of what the replacement(s) are to be  ?

To pay  £  172.89   ,  then it must have been somebody with a interest of a particular vehicle that he owns  ?    I should still have mine from  abt. 1975 to 1980  (complete with my  £  annotations)  in the bottom of a filing cabinet not opened in over 30 years  !   Seems best left closed as a £££ investment  (but not for I)  ,,

12 hours ago, lynx42 Rick Cove said:

I was recently at the Australian National Vehicle Museum in Birdwood SA to study the ultra rare Summit car on display and noticed the good way to stop sticky fingers from removing the radiator caps and mascot from the cars.  A fine stainless steel wire crimped around the cap/mascot and affixed under the bonnet.  I thought it was a great idea.  For interest sake, look up the 'Summit' car on the web.  I have parts of one and there are only a very few left in existence world wide.

I am certain I have heard of  SUMMIT Cars previously  ,  must be  RARE  as I have just tried  Gooooogling up ,   using a few terms such as  Summit Car Manuf.  etc. etc.  - can't find anything ,  need to put on extra layers to defeat a hard frost as I have to jack a vehicle up on drive (at least it is dry) , will have another go to find history this evening.

3 hours ago, Chris Hall said:

Nice big garage, but Memphis Belle really needs her own hangar!!

BIG  ,  but he'll soon overflow ,  'they' always do  LoL.

3 hours ago, Jessie The Jeep said:

Those following my Flying Control Jeep thread will know I've just moved house. The M201 made the trip to the new house yesterday. Today we had another trip over to Washington to start to collect my workshop contents. Lynne towed the trailer home while my daughter came along with me in the GPW. In contrast to yesterday, it was a lovely sunny day and at slow speeds, there was quite a bit of warmth in the sun.

Jeesus  -   at 200m + altitude  !    but  wtf   OD box  roadkill ?