Simon Daymond

looks like someone just tapped into a goldmine, I'd buy a copy, absolute no use to me whatsoever, but interesting none the less :-) I wonder if it's like the normal Haynes manual, where you have to strip your car down to change a simple bulb :whistle: One for my Christmas list I think, (oops sorry mentioned the C word)

it's those flipping mystery objects, although the last one went quick ,well done Bodge :-)

Hi Jenny, it would be nice to see your site when you have it up and running, I keep forgetting to stop and take pictures, or I'm doing something so oily etc that it would be just my luck to ruin the camera.

Hi Stef, welcome to the forums, is it really true that Italian women have turned nagging into an artform? - I thought it was a universal thing :whistle:

makes you think doesn't it? That's a damn big hole.

over 8 seats limos will need to be driven as PCV's, under 8 seats they'll be licensed by their respective local authority, as a novelty taxi. Change is very much afoot now to clamp down on these people who run limo's and the like. I know that in Leeds, VOSA are now regularly to be seen inspecting limo's, novelty limo's (fire engines etc), and it's about time.

going off topic slightly, I once tyre-blacked a bus, with gloss rather than tyre black (by mistake) took weeks to dry, looked beautiful but gave anyone who touched them black hands (which strangely dried almost instantly)

about ten years ago we were using the militant to move a bus, we were towing it on a solid bar, all was going well until some prawn overtook the bus and tried to get in between the bus and the militant :dunno:

sorry Tony, you're quite right :-) With regard to the whole debate, it probably won't effect me, but that still makes it wrong, so I will do my bit, as I fail to see why historic vehicles should be included in this legislation. They cover few miles per year etc etc, and common sense (I know :-)) should dictate that a rolling 25 year age thing at least should be in place. What I would like to know is who to write to first, and what to say? I don't think this is right, and am happy to step up. I am not surprised at all that others have been aware of this for some time, and to their credit, have been vocal. I however, was not aware, having been away from the vehicle preservation scene now for many years, only just returning to it with rekindled interest in my militant this summer.

well if this is indeed the case, then a proper argument should be put forward. Surely this is where forums like this one come into play? I doubt 'one off' letters will get any reaction, instead we should band together and make a more unified approach. When I've read stuff about this before, I have to admit that I've thought that either it would resolve itself to exclude historic vehicles, or more selfishly, I thought that it wouldn't apply to me. However, you would think for the tiny fraction of historic vehicles that this would apply to, the powers at be could exclude them from this legislation? Perhaps, someone could suggest who we write to? - and perhaps some of our more eloquent number, could draft a template letter we could all use? The time to object to this is now, - now later when it has been introduced.

at least it wasn't raining (was it?) Glad you got it all back safely, it's nice when you've got people to call. The Police are usually ok, it's just the odd one. I remember when I stalled an old AEC Mandator, in the middle of a teatime rush, the batteries were weak, and of course it wouldn't start. I managed to bump start it backwards after the police moved many cars :-)

looks like it needs saving, been used as a limo, what p*sses me off is the fact that the owner quotes the insurance as being cheap (£100 -£150) so does that mean hes been carrying fare paying passengers illegally? i.e. patting himself on the back for buying a military vehicle, getting it insured on a cheap scheme as such, then carrying fare paying passengers? All totally illegal, and something that would completely bugger it up for us all if he were to have a serious accident with passengers aboard. Expect to see alot of these 'novelty' limos coming up for sale as the powers at large are finally getting their acts together and clamping down on limos, now ensuring that they are correctly licensed, insured and that the drivers have the correct license to drive them for hire & reward. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Humber-Pig-ex-Military-Army-Armoured-Vehicle_W0QQitemZ320160668740QQihZ011QQcategoryZ122309QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

if someone can supply you with a paintcode, anyone could mix it for you. a 'RAL' code is understood almost everywhere I believe. I have some 'Mason' Paints colour swatches, they list Nato Green as 'BS 285' (not a RAL code, I think the BS means British Standard?) Masons are now owned by Akso Nobel, who I believe own a few other paint companies as well ]]www.akzonobel.com/com/ also PPG http://corporateportal.ppg.com/Refinish/default.htm their paint is excellent, I'm sure you'll find a stockist near you

Hi Steve, welcome to the forums, whereabouts are you?

NOS - matt paint isn't durable, it has a finish similar to primer or undercoat, and isn't really sealed to the weather, which is why muck etc sticks to it. Ok it paints well, and looks ok on dodgy panels for its' flat finish. But I think the thing to consider now, is that unlike in the Army etc, where you vehicle was a tool, now it's something you want to keep and show off for many years to come. As we all know a good coat of paint is not only decorative but keeps the weather at bay. Gloss paint is always gloss whether shiny or not, to be a bit clearer; what I mean is that it is sealed even if the appearance is not shiny, and thus keeps the weather off better. On a gloss paint surface, whether shiny or not, the water beads off, whereas on a matt surface it doesn't, or hardly at all. The fact that the water doesn't bead, means that the surfaces stay wetter for longer, so more change of water ingress into the paint surface and surrounding joints. I am sure there will be something still available to add to gloss paint to matt the finish down, failing that trial and error. Ih the past I once added cellulose thinners to Mason's coach enamel, by mistake, it painted on fine, but the two reacted and I only achieved a matt finish. I know a paint place very well, the two guys that own it have only ever worked with paint, in fact it was these guys who started the whole matt paint discussion thing off, by suggesting to me that this went on. So I will ask them to investigate further for us.

yes NOS I think it would have been a matting agent. Gloss paint and matt are different from my experience. Many a time I've painted something outside and the dew has caught it before it fully dried, the result was a matt finish, but it still beaded water very well, and rubbed down like gloss did. I am no expert at all on MOD finishes, as all my work, when painting, was geared towards a high gloss, mirror finish whenever possible, obviously worlds removed from the necessity of MOD painting. I would say though that it would be more benficial to try to get this gloss piant/matt finish thing cracked, as matt simply does not last in my opinion, and it is ok having to reapply the matt regularly to keep the vehicle looking well, but you soon end up with a ton of paint on your vehicle. Thankfully the militant will be going gloss, I'll just have to keep myself in check and remember what I'm painting and not go overboard! I used to think my work was good enough if I could read my watch , albeit backwards, clearly in the reflection. :-)

I've never used any, but my paint supplier told me that the proper army paint they used to supply (Masons, Derby) was gloss matted down with a special laquer. So it was gloss paint as far as sealed finish went, but matt in appearance. This guy sold paint his entire life, so I'm inclined to believe him, it's just I've never seen it anywhere, everyone I see paints matt paint to achieve a matt finish, but as we all know, the matt finish is a pain to keep clean, and does little to keep corrosion at bay, unlike gloss which repels water and dirt etc so much more effectively.

Hi Dave, BTW where is Jack?

thanks for the diagram, see what you mean now. On our Scania coaches, there is a pipe similar between the manifold and the downpipe, it seals with what looks very much like a piston compression ring at each end. Would something like that work? There is a groove on the pipe for the ring to sit in, but it goes together dry (ie without any pastes etc) and allows for movement, and doesn't leak at all. Perhaps it's an idea for the future? Also I'm sure there is a similar joint on the Gardner engine exhaust manifold, I'll investigate. Hopefully you've got something missing/worn out? As I can't see that it would be simply pushed together, it does look like the short pipes 3 & 4 are designed to move slightly on their respective seats, if so, surely there must be something inserted in the joint to keep a seal, but something flexible.

when I used to paint boats, I noticed that in the engine bay the exhaust was wrapped in a heat proof special bandage lagging affair (great description I know), I think the purpose was to protect you from the heat but also to stop any leaks entering the boat. Try a chandlers near you, it might be just the job. Failing that, or as well if it's any good, lengths of flexible exhaust are not that dear, unless you go to Halfords etc, so could you not buy a good lengh for stock, and some decent exhaust clamps, then you can refit a new section easily as the better commercial clamps are intended to be re-used several times. You can also get stainless flex exhaust which does last a lot longer than the noraml steel. We use commercial motor factors, such as Partco, HS Atec etc, I don't know where you live so I don't know what your local firms are. Perhaps try searching for them on Yell.com ?

no problem, I notice since last time I visited, they do clutch plates as well. I live only a few miles away from them, so I would gladly intervene if there were any problems if anyone sent their stuff up by carrier etc. It's amazing the things you can get done, it's just finding out who does it that takes the time. I tried to get a Bedford brake master cylinder honed out a couple of years ago, but we'd heard that if the place we went to thought it was for the brakes that they would decline, so we said it was a clutch cylinder (naughty I know) They honed it out and it works beautifully, understandably yet frustrating, is the fact that if in doubt most companies just say 'no'.

if it got an advice on test, then for the mileage you do it will probably be exactly the same next year. If it were bad, unless the tester was being nice (can happen) then it would have been a fail. So although you are struggling to get one at the mo, I doubt whether it is as urgent as it might at first appear. If you have the old track rod end off, it might be an idea to take it with you, often if you get the right person at the shop, they will realise what it is similar to. But I'm sure someone on here will know more, if not most likely have one.

Hi David, how's it going? Is that 3 in one day from Scotland? What happened did you all suddenly get broadband :-D

any pics :whistle: welcome to the forums, any snow in Scotland yet.

something that most rebuilders overlook is to clean out oilways and check the oil pump. It's relatively quick and easy to go for the big stuff. ie pistons, re-shelling the crank etc, but if the engine oilways etc are aren't up too much, you're wasting your money. Also, if you strip your engine, then you know what state it is in. As for tools and expertise, well aren't we all meant to start somewhere? I know it can be expensive buying tools you might use occassionaly, but often if you ask around much can be borrowed. I have owned the militant for 14 years now, and although progress has been slow, 99% of the work is mine, not everything goes to plan, but on balance I've enjoyed it as it is my hobby after all. If I finished it tomorrow, what would I do? - but another, most likely. :-)