N.O.S.

But to answer your question, why yes - they are all members of the genus CONSTRUCTOR

They sound much the same as those on the Fairy Swordfish forum - highly strung.

About coming back, do you mean? I guess they finally slung you off the saxophone forum then?

If only you knew how much we've missed you :banana:

Stormin - I guess if you are just replacing an automotive application power booster like a GMC Hydrovac with another automotive application booster like an air over hydraulic booster from a truck of comparable brake fluid displacement, then that might be seen as quite acceptable - If you were to convert from single line to dual line, or start altering actuators then your point could be very important.

One important point to consider, R3. If you wish to put an air / hydraulic servo on, you will need one with sufficient capacity (in terms of volume of fluid pumped) to operate all six wheel cylinders. Any modernish truck over 7.5t or having more than two axles is not likely to have an air / hydraulic system. You will most likely find that these modern servos (e.g. from a 7.5t truck or even Bedford MJ) will only have sufficient capacity to operate four cylinders, and then only two from each of the two circuits. Finding one with enough capacity will not be easy!

Is your question is related to a possible GMC engine conversion? In which case you are thinking about the possible merit of using air / hydraulic rather than vacuum / hydraulic? The window wipers will go better

Would not putting a modern gearbox on the back of a GMC engine entail making an adaptor plate or new complete rear housing? Because I didn't think there was anything remotely SAE about the GMC 270's rear end. Putting a GMC gearbox on any other engine will also require one - unless it is a Bedford 330 or similar in which case only the lower two of the four gearbox mounting bolt centres are different, and Bedford combined flywheel/bellhousing can be drilled to suit. Interesting that the Bedford and GMC combined flywhel and clutch housing are similar but not identical - Bedford adopted Chevrolet designs but didn't make it all totally compatible for some reason. Modern engines use a flywheel housing with SAE flange, gearboxes have a seperate bolted-on or designed-in SAE bellhousing (clutch housing) to join box to engine. Note - using a Bedford 330 means cutting bulkhead or pushing radiator forward or both as it is too long. The Studebaker I think had an SAE bellhousing to mate up with the SAE flywheel housing of the Hercules JXD, but I'm not sure if the gearbox mounts were the same as GMC? Wasn't it a different gearbox in the Studebaker? But this might be a really useful item if you want to put the GMC box on a more modern motor. The only other GMC flywheel/bellhousing I know of made for the GMC was the Perkins produced P6 conversion, but I don't think that will help on more modern engines, and you probably don't want to install a P6. TTM's idea of a modern engine and box - be it auto or manual - might be much the easier option. Finding gearboxes with a straight stick shift is not easy. And using a more modern remote shift box (for example a Leyland Roadrunner ZF combined gearbox / bellhousing from a Cummins B6 which would fit onto a B4) would entail engineering a whole new gearchange mechanism (but not impossible if you really like projects :cool2:).

I missed a piece on the local news last night, but heard later, about the M11 and A505 being jammed up big-time after the museum had to shut its doors due to being full to capacity. Must have been some very disapointed folk but it demonstrates how popular this event is. The cessation of the local USAF open days has left a bit of a vacuum.

Yes, I borrowed one and tried fitting it - problem is the TM rim offset (or lack of) causes the rim to foul the steering arms on the hubs, and if you sort that out with different rims the lock will have to be reduced somewhat to prevent tyres fouling drag link. So special rims will be needed, and that's before you start worrying about clearance in wheel arches (I can't remember now how much of a problem that was). I have seen one on 24" tyres, but no idea how they managed that. Operated by Rose Drainage of Kenton, Suffolk around 1990 if I remember correctly? 425/75R20s (common fitment on Unimogs) will fit well with the right rim offset and are brilliant in horrible conditions, but they make the truck very w i d e !

Which is why I was struggling trying to work out how these were used. I'd assumed the loop - because it didn'y have a wear surface like the thimble in a rope end - was for just releasing what is effectively a wedge socket joint, enabling the rope to be looped through to take up any unwanted slack and then locked. You've solved the mystery for me, Richard!

Many thanks for that, NPT. Good old British kit then :-)

Anyone ever used these? WW2 U.S.? [ATTACH=CONFIG]33914[/ATTACH]

Richard, could it be that that some signs were put up on the wrong roads to misinform invaders?

:shocking: I have now, Andy!

Help! :sweat: Can anyone advise a good supplier of inline connectors and other fittings to allow connection of 1/4" brake pipe using flared ends and also supply flexible hoses to connect to 1/4" pipe? Ideally with SAE / NPT threads for WW2 American stuff, but not essential. I found a great company in Northamptonshire a few years ago but have run out of fittings and cannot find their details - have just wasted a couple of hours chasing around Norwich to no avail, and cannot find a decent supplier on the internet. Thanks.:beatenup:

You've never seen me press the wrong brake pedal and drop a dragline bucket :shocked: But yes it is something to consider carefully. They do need to be tight - as that link cautions.

Good call, Bernard. We never clipped them (on dragline rigging) - don't think we ever lost one.

Thanks, yes it could be a leaking injector (common rail system on Cummins V555). Hadn't thought of that. The engine does stand for long periods too. Must put it on the ever-growing list of things to do........

I've not seen those wire loop tie-downs before, deadline!

French farmer's son's go-kart maybe?

They're out there - and they come at least twice as big as this one! They are assembled just as I described, and you can use resin instead of spelter now. Another useful termination is the wedge socket - useful for quick repairs. Hope we're not treading on your toes posting stuff like this, Cosrec - perhaps you were planning a whole post on terminations :blush: Keep it coming!

I use these fittings for a tough duty application. But they are not threaded - they have a very shallow taper into which the rope is fed, then unravelled and the lot filled up with whitemetal. As solid as you'll get. I think it would be a certainty that the threaded variety like your example are still available. In fact I'm not really sure how they are attached in your example. WW2? I would imagine very possible.

That body has straight crossmembers - the last 2" taper up at 45 deg. So warrior - any clues from your 353 body as to original or rebuilt? Note the German body plate means nothing more than 'built in Germany', as this particular truck was a French army example. The Allies were working hard to help the immediate post war German manufacturing industry recover, hence contracts placed for bodies. The whole GMC rebuild thing is a very complex history - doubt we'll ever totally crack it! I have a poor copy of an article from Army Motors of unknown date by Pierre Izarie, giving details and many great photos of the rebuild programme operated by Reserve de Generale du Material (ERGMA - I have a rebuilt gearbox with an ERGMA plate) at Neuvy Pailloux, running from 1949 and rebuilding over 18,000 GMC cargo trucks. Looks like they were all for the French Army. Interestingly several photos show they were rebuilding/repairing many wooden bodies....

I thought the whole point about KERR was that it enabled you to transfer the momentum (ah - extra energy ) of the moving tow vehicle into a snatch pull with far less risk of ripping off rope anchor points or breaking tow rope than if you tried a snatch pull with chain or non-stretch rope.