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marmon

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  • Location
    France or anywhere!
  • Interests
    anything that drives or floats
  • Occupation
    Seafarer

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  1. As it's USA are you sure its not 5/8 and 11/16?
  2. 10 or 15 degrees would be fine the only thing you have to watch out for is kicking back against the starter while cranking and pre ignition ( pinking) any sign of either of these and back the timing off a little bit at a time until it stops, I'm sure you have, but check the centrifugal advance is well lubricated and the springs are still tight enough. You'll get more horsepower with more advance up to a point.
  3. Nice work, I like your signature there was a sign above a Gas station on Miami Beach said, The impossible we do today Miracles take a little longer.
  4. In marine aplications you generally have four adjustable mounts and you tweak and move until the solid prop flange is perfectly sqaure and level using a feeler gauge between flanges, bit of a black art as you also have to compensate for the weight of the suspended shaft which has to basically float with water lubrication between it and the cutlass bearing! It seems pretty close to what you're trying to do.http://www.vetus.com/engines-and-around-the-engine/flexible-engine-mountings.html
  5. Not sure it will fit a lightweight but paddocks do a two battery plate and hold down bar to take two spiral wound Optima battery's, they fitted a treat in my SUMB battery box although it is designed for a Landy. Added bonus is they hold their charge for 6 months at least with the battery switch off.
  6. Hi John, You've probably already considered it but marine flexible mounts adjust in two directions to allow alignment with the prop shaft and come in all kinds of stiffness and sizes.
  7. Very sad, an exact list of items would help, they'll probably be advertised at some point.
  8. http://www.dimebank.com/LucasColours.html This maybe of help, it certainly makes things easier when making up looms and also when checking for faults a few years down the road.
  9. Sounds like a fuel or carburettor problem, possibly you have shaken up some rust or muck in the tank, provided the petrol is new T in a pressure gauge to eliminate the pump, filter, tank etc, while your at it fill a milk bottle with petrol and let it settle out, I dont have the exact figure but id expect to see 3 to 8 psi with SU's, if someone has the exact specs please jump in, but it should run well at those sort of figures. Carb balance would effect idle a lot more than revving provided they are both opening also pull the oil dampers and watch if both velocity pistons raise roughly equally when revved. You can also pull the dashpots and check the fuel level in the main jets even, present and not flooding. Agree with the other post about the anti overun valves if you have this type solder them shut but again they only cause problems at idle. If it runs well enough take it for a run plug colour will tell you a lot, also I'm still thinking vacuum leak, I'm not sure what you have connected in this application but its worth actualy pulling the pipes and temporarily plugging off. Good hunting, Quentin
  10. Its quite hard to diagnose these problems without being on scene, but logical order can help Ive always found it best to pinpoint the problem before parts swapping as you can conceivably introduce new problems even with new parts, and that can really give you a headache, by all means swap a part but if it makes no difference put it back in the box and fit the old one. You can always fit it later when you find the problem. By misfire is it popping and spitting or just one or more cylinders are failing to fire, always or only mid range and idle? If its rough at idle most likey a cylinder is not firing or large- ish vacuum leak so pull one plug lead at a time with insulated pliers making sure as best you can not to ground yourself on metal if they all seem to be sort of firing suspect a vacuum leak, or very rich, smell exhaust to decide which. Pull the plugs and closely look at the colour if differences are noted match intake track cylinder to carb and any pipes attached to manifold. An odd one but it does happen it's caused me problems in the past is the rotor arm is not aligned properly with the cap, the spark jumps forward to next contact when the mechanical advance kicks in but thats a midrange pop bang and backfire. Coils can produce a good yellowish spark and still be duff look for a strong blue spark. With good even compression pretty safe to say you can rule out an engine problem, especially as it happened overnight. I agree with other poster after running an engine thats been sat a while or cleaned condesation in distributor is common., but don't rule out you may have fixed the original problem and introduced a new one with a carb overhaul or similar. Anyway hope this is of some help. Best, Quentin
  11. Great story, seemed to stop in full swing i hope all is OK. Has the book be published? I would love to read more.
  12. I do hit remember me but then I get the password older than 202 days so I go to change it but it doesn't remember me and I cant remember it to re enter the same new one I entered 202 days ago.... Going to take an aspirin and have a lay down. Like I said my bank entrusts my €15,57 to one 5 year old password! Any thanks to the pair of you the tips im sure ill figure it out after some sleep!
  13. I will try to attach photos, might be of interest. no luck! it disconnects half way through the upload. This sit use to be easy !
  14. Any particular reason I have to change my password every 202 days! I don't with my banks I don't with dozens of other businesses and sites, there are only a certain number of brain sells left at my age and if they are all trying to remember new hmvf passwords I doubht I will remember the way home...
  15. You should have kept quiet Ray I thought Dukebox was a German version but there again my brains going mushy in my early 50's!
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