hi CW,
That is right, he had to regularly had to lift the head to do the valves. One wonders what it is like to be bobing about in mid-Atlantic, trying to get the valves out :shake:. The access to the engine was not great. The book, "Half Safe", only told some of the story, from USA to England. Once here, he reworked the vehicle, before recommencing the round the world journey, via Europe, through Turkey, then Baghdad, Delhi and Calcutta. From here it was back in the sea to Freemantle, Australia. After a break he was back in the sea to Calcutta, then to Rangoon and Bangkok, onto Hong Kong and Shanghai. Onward to Japan, then north up the Pacific to the Aleutian Islands, then Anchorage, Alaska. Then it was by land to Vancouver, Los Angeles, then East across the US to finish where he started in Montreal.
This makes your Africa trip sound like a picnic :-D
This second part (UK onwards) is covered in another book, which is equally entertaining. It is called "The Other Half of Half-Safe", by Ben Carlin