Richard Farrant

R, I used to test and repair all winches in Army service. They had an annual requirement to have the cut outs and warnings checked as well as rope condition, etc. This covered all sorts of vehicles, Bedfords, AEC, Scammell, Foden, Leyland, dozers and loading shovels, recovery vehicles, armour, etc. I once saw a rope that had broken on an AEC Mk1 Militant GS, whilst being tested by someone else, it broke at rear of lorry and ended up in a tree, the other side of the anchor block. This was the hemp core type rope. Later on the ropes on some vehicles were of a different construction and were said to drop down if they broke................not always, witnessed this as well. Despite very careful inspections, the rope can have been strained in the past and the damage not visible. We were having to load to the cut out, but theoretically, the SWL of the rope was double that. I am not sure a blanket or canvas would have much effect on a heavy rope, it goes so fast you have little warning. Just keep well clear. An operator should work out the load required to execute the task and never get up to the cut out load. You would not want to be pulling something up a bank only to cut out and have to let it back down again on the brake. The cut out is a safeguard. Some of heaviest winches were CAT D6 and Foden Recovery, the Foden could be done using the remote control well away from the vehicle, CAT not so good as there is only a sheet of glass between you and the winch. The cut outs were very often not correct or not working so it was a neccessary task. Gloves.........if you slide your hand up a rope and there is a broken strand, it can slice open your finger or hand, much better to catch in the leather glove, as for getting caught in the winch, there is no need to be that close to the drum to guide it in.

Simon, From distant memory, the ball pin is just that, it locates in the chassis on a taper with a nut securing. The pin is inserted through the rod eye and cap secures, taking up the clearance. I seem to think the cap is adjustable to allow movement of the joint. No manuals to hand to check, as I said, it is about 20 years since I last worked on or drove one of these. Do not put oil in the brake system, with the dust and rust etc. that congregates in an air sytem, and the likelyhood of it affecting the rubber, you will have more problems. Best remove the valve and check it out, I think it was a Clayton Dewandre part ( or Westinghouse?), so it might be possible to find a kit or even a nos valve. Better safer than sorry.

Does he want you to nominate him for the BV Award 2009 ?

Look out.......Jack's on the thread :shake:

No ! Just a good mind reader :-D

Too cold, Degsy :-D

Simon, It is a very long time ago since I worked on these when they were in service, but I think that cap that is missing, is part of the bearing surface for the torque rod end. Without it, the rod is not held tight on the ball pin. You might be lucky to fit a new cap and get away with it. Changing the rod is not an easy job, especially with the body on.

added to that, check valve clearances............and although it would not appear to be related, check for any dragging brakes.

I particularly recollect the twin engined Moke, Austin K9 and Champs taking part. Would like to see a repeat of that on BBC.......will not hold my breath though

Rarity is what it is all about, Rick. Not just WW2 German kit though, I can think of a few Allied vehicles from the same period that would also fetch high prices.

There is an obvious answer to that question, Rick. The number of surviving Shermans and derivatives and stocks of parts new and old, still around. As for German WW2 armour, I have never heard of NOS parts for them and how many restorable Jagdpanthers, etc are to be found? The owners and restorers of these vehicles command a lot of respect, the time, money and resources needed are not something that many people could commit to. And once done, it is understandable not to run them around at every opportunity.

There is a clue there :rofl:

They probably are by now, Mark..............mechanics nightmare, broken stud rusted into manifold :shake:. Sorry, to answer your question, they are threaded into the manifold

I know exactly how you feel, :shake:.

Wash your mouth out...............this is real Scotch

Want me to save you some? Things look so much better after having a nip :-D

I have Movie Maker on this computer, so will look in to that, cheers.

Bet you don't get much for £6 :rofl:

It says on the tent "TUM", Truck,Utility, Medium. This is the 110 Land Rover. TUM(HD) is the Pinzgauer, TUL is the 90 L/R. Hope this helps.

How did you transfer your video, did you use the gadget I spoke about sometime ago? It might be better to find someone with professional equipment to transfer them all to discs. I have tried one VHS tape to disc, not fantastic as I had to do it from the camera, due to video player and TV in a different room

CW, We will see you out and about again next year then? Great ! .............just dusting my desert boots off now :-D

Great :tup::...........like the special effects at the end :-D

Here is a photo of it in 1999 when in the SEME Historic Vehicle Collection.

Simon, Those Neate handbrakes have a tendency to not release the cable enough, due to the cable drum not being free enough. I would check that first, then do as N.O.S. says.

It is at Wouldham, near Bluebell Hill.