Richard Farrant

The port engine is running about 200 rpm faster than the starboard. Reckon there is a difference in the screws, think one is probably damaged. I suggest using Belzona to build up the damaged area. Any time you need any technical advice, just call :-D

Was Bodge involved? Don't recollect that..........got a lot on my mind at present Ah yes :idea::idea::idea:.......got it :rofl:will say no more

Heard on the news that a gritter overturned in the Forest of Dean, I suppose no one gritted the road in front of him :???

Hi Thor, Did you know that new members have to complete an initiation task ? As you are in Dorset, you will not have to travel far to undertake it, just go to somewhere near Blandford and get Jack's damned GMC going, ....................else we will never hear the end of the saga. :tup::

I used to go to truck racing when it was in its early days and those with low budgets for tuning were noted as opening to fuel up so much that the engine could become swamped with dense clouds of black smoke. There is an optimum point of fuel quantity or flow and perhaps you are getting too much, have you tried cutting it right back? Something not at all right there somewhere, do you know more than you are telling? I suspect this is another CW guessing game :rofl:

Yes I noticed that, and was that the engine with the damaged piston? Looks like it might have been overfuelling, which was a suggestion re. the piston damage I think :confused:

Rick, I use a gloss synthetic of same base as the top coat, ie Olive Drab, Light Stone, or whatever. Usually use Deep Bronze Green gloss under Olive Drab, it gives a good barrier. Body blasting.....a good operator will be able to do car bodies without distortion. It is a question of right materials and technique. Of course it will still find holes if there is rust present.

Good thinking Chris, that will save me a journey :tup::

:-D :-D :rofl:

Rick, I agree with Nick, powder coating is not a good idea. You have numerous bolts and screw to go in the chassis, when tightening, the coating will flake at that point allowing moisture to get under the coating. Nowt wrong with a good quality red oxide, but it does not end there, you want to use a gloss synthetic paint before applying the olive drab and your chassis will be weather proof. We did my brother's Willys like this in 1984 and it is still good underneath.........even undersealed the bottom of the body before refitting it.

Spark Plug technology has progressed a long way since the 1940's, if those AC 44 plugs are old stock or not of a modern type then NGK will give better performance. I think NGK were the first to use a copper core, others followed, this and other features, gave a wider heat range, giving better performance. Sometimes an old engine oils plugs so you go for a hotter grade, next number up, etc., with these modern plugs the heat ranges tend to overlap adjacent grades. In my Bedford, I use Champion J8C, which is a copper core, denoted by the C suffix. They have been in there for years and still good.

That is heartening news, as I have to get two batteries soon, perhaps the price of lead has dropped...........

I did notice that on the guages. Is this recently, after you repaired the engine?

16:1 ratio petrol/oil mix, same as my Bantam many years ago :shake: As a child I remember the council using these on the verges. Apparantly they had a habit of dropping into gear if left in neutral with the engine running.........you can just imagine one of these chasing the operator!

CW, Port engine sounds a bit down on power. Magic glasses got misted up, will have to play it again :confused:

There is one like that with dummy "concrete" ballast blocks, restored and rallied in Dorset. Nice photos :tup::

With this type of tank, the repairers normally cut circular access holes (about 4 inch or so) in it, might need several, because of baffles. Inside can then be inspected and cleaned. They do use dip tanks for cleaning rust, then once done, solder circular plates back over the holes.

Neil, A lot of Canadian vehicles were procured for the British army. They were designed to War Office requirements, hence why the CMP's were right hand drive.

Good news Simon ! You cannot keep a good Bedford down :-D

Hi Simon,I have to be honest, I don't recollect the engine colour on your MW. When new, or a Bedford factory rebuild, I think black was the colour. In 1940's the rebuild colour in REME workshops was Eau-de-Nil, whichb is a pale or pastel green, don't think it was that shade.Engine number should be just above the petrol pump, quite large numerals.

You might be lucky, the price of a 644 has risen recently to around £90. Mind you I normally use a New Holland dealer, quality is good, long warranty and a good deal.......normally. Apparantly it is the fault of the Chinese

Looks like they have a stripped down M20 to chase the speeders with :-D

Bottom left photo is of a new F60B outside Pearsons of Liverpool, who contracted to uncrate and assemble vehicles coming in from US and Canada during the war.

Neil, They were mounted on a Canadian Ford F60 3 ton lorry, I have seen photos recently, might have been on the MLU Forum, they tend to specialise in Canadian vehicles.

Looking at my Dennis manual, the diff gears are neatly housed within the crown wheel. This type of drive is known as "worm and wheel", it was still used on some lorries through to the 1950's.