Richard Farrant

:-D getting soft in his old age !!

I recognise the "ancient mariner" walking past the Scammell in Andy's second photo.

There are different settings for each gear, known as bus bar heights, done with the measuring tool shown in EMERs. Once these are done and the pedal feel right, then the square head adjusters are set. What you do is bring them out to the pawl and set. Mark the self-adjuster nut, unhook the spring, turn nut anticlock 1/4 of a turn. Hook spring back on and start to pedal up that gear. the nut should gradually turn back to its original set position and no more. Once this is ascertained, the gear is set and as gradual wear on the band occurs, the auto adjuster will compensate. It should not over adjust. It is easier for me to do this than write it, as the workings of the box need to be understood first. I strongly advise anyone who does the adjustments to read the book and understand it and not to do any turning of the adjusters without taking note of what they have done. cheers Richard

Hi Terry, The manuals describe using a Gagging tool to ensure the correct teeth are aligned. It is some years since I last done this on one of the three Alvis's, but there are marks on the teeth of the gears that all have to be correct, the tool ensures perfect alignment. The task can be done without the tool, but for safety sake with all wheels on that side off the ground, the hub should be carefully turned to ensure a gear had not moved when fitting the sun gear. EMER's (manuals) have a habit of glossing over any tricky tasks, I am well familiar with them and on occasion with an unknown piece of equipment, the book was consulted only to have it say "just remove" and "refit in reverse order". cheers Richard

Actually it is a TS3 ....... a Commer Knocker!

Robin, Two things you look for, first is how far down the end of the male thread is from top of auto adjuster nut, if it is within 1/8" of the top or protruding then the band is worn out. I had to go and check a Ferret once where it was being shipped to Canada a day or so later, no 1st gear, the thread had come so far through the nut that there was a dent in the top cover! Well and truly worn out. Right second thing you will notice if you are familiar with the boxes is how a worn band will sit lower than its neighbour. Your friend Al, should study the EMER's until he understands the workings then go through the adjustments to the letter. The pedalling up procedure is often found to be more physical exercise for the driver than adjusting the bands, because the square head bolts that the pawl rides on are often out of range, so bands wear considerably without auto adjustment. One of our forum members, Montie from South Africa with the Saracen had gearbox problems and after a number of emails to and fro, I asked him if we could talk on Skype. We arranged a time and he removed the cover off the box as instructed. While his mate held the camera on the box, Montie went through the gears and I was able to spot an adjustment problem in the gear engaging linkage. Once that was rectified and bus bar heights checked, I understand his problem was solved. Hope this helps. regards, Richard

Does the white "C" indicate the arc of observed area? Artillery observation post maybe ........ (I had a good sleep thanks! :-))

The tracta seal is the one that bears on the spherical surface, it has a wiper edge which you can see and inside a sealing edge. You have to dismantle the assembly to remove the seal and fit a new one. On no account should you tap the seal in around the edge with a hammer, this will distort the seal and it may not then touch the surface in places. It needs to be fitted using a large plate or piece of flat hard wood, then carefully knock it in, or press if you have one. Care taken now will pay off otherwise you will be to square one with a leak again. You mentioned seeing a gap between the seal and the housing, once the seal is removed, check for signs of butchery, ie burrs in the housing from where the last person prised a seal out. best of luck regards Richard

No worries Clive, I will not loose sleep over it :-D

Going on the common themes of MO's, I think the C stands for Conveniences, and red symbolises Engaged, and blue means Vacant

There is a MV collector in Victoria, Australia called Ron Fry, he has written articles for Military Machines in the past. Earlier this week a TV programme was screened in Australia where they visited Ron's collection. The programme is sponsored by the leading vehicle insurer over there, who actively support vehicle events of all kinds, and this link is to their website, where you can see the programme online; http://www.shannons.com.au/club/video/man-and-machine-season-1-episode-4/ Towards the end there is a restored M3 Stuart running round, see if you can recognise what engine it has ...... and no help from the locals please . cheers Richard

A symbol used on Stores to denote the type of storage required?

Camp procedures?

Clive, You read different manuals to those I read ........... not seen any of those quotes in EMER's or AESP's :undecided:

Some people appreciate help.

OK Richard, no problem

Richard, PM sent to you re. this

Richard I may have misunderstood your first post, thinking there were thrust on two separate journals. Thrusts can be on any journal, I know of 6 cylinders with it one No.1, others on No.3 or no.5. Just make sure the clearance is maintained to the makers spec.

Hi Richard, Not having done any work to a Garner internally, I cannot comment on whether it is normal to have thrusts on two different mains, but providing when you hold the crank in one direction, ie. push it forward, you have equal clearance on the front of each thrust position, then there should not be a problem.

Hi Nick, I have just found this photo of your Matador, looking in good order, I took it in 1981 while it took part in the London to Brighton HCVS run, at Crawley rest stop. Shame it was left to suffer. cheers Richard

Hi Montie, Have a look at this video, it is Tim Vibert from Australia, driving his on the road, during the Corowa Swim-In a few years ago. It might give you a little idea... cheers Richard

Always an answer ...... well you might as well take the rear bevel boxes out while the engine is out, to check that the bevel gear is secure, you know how they are known to fail. I have renewed brake pipes with out taking engines or boxes out. Have you changed your pipes and brake hoses yet?

Unless you are doing a full resto, there is no need to pull the whole lot out. Making more work for yourself. If there is an issue with flywheel or gearbox, it is an easy task just to remove the gearbox only. I have never known a time when we pulled the engine out as well, just to have a gearbox out.

I know which one I would go for to, one which I had a bit of involvement with ......... but fat chance of it happening :-|

Regarding the bridge markings on the Commer, they are painted very inconspicuously and I think the answer may lay in a paragraph from the book Wheels of the RAF. to quote: "At home stations, the RAF had little need to be conscious of bridge markings, but in the field, using roads that the Army had cleared, their vehicles had to correspond to Army regulations on this point" If this photo was taken after the RAF introduced bridge markings prior to D-Day, then it would be on a yellow background, so it is likely to be prior to that date.