Richard Farrant

Hi Sean, When I said tinning with solder, I was meaning the pressed steel side cover which was the cause of concern by Jules. Another idea, recently I was making enquiries regarding stitching a badly cracked cyl block, the specialist explained to me that after it is done he pumps a ceramic sealer through the block to coat it in side. Maybe there is a sealer like this that can be applied to corroded components such as side covers, to seal them. I think paints are only alright if you can be sure rust is not going to get back in to the metal and lift a paint coating off. Other way is to make a new cover, the Morris Commercial 4 cyl engines are prone to perforating the side covers.

Wayne, There is no problem getting brake hoses made with Imperial type fittings, a number of companies producing them. One I have used in the past is this one; http://www.nelsonstokes.com/products/brake-hoses.ashx They may even have the spec. for the particular Lockheed number otherwise send them an old one as pattern. Brakes are essential and should not be compromised by a cost issue. Better to spend it on roadworthy items than radios or arms, etc.! cheers Richard

Thanks John, I could not remember the axles, but later on thought it was Viva, so that matches with the HA van !

I agree that wax oil is not a good idea and I do not think you could rely on it doing its job in that environment. I have reservations on hot dip galvanising as it can distort thin metal. Another idea, which still involves a little heat, but controllable, is to tin the inside with solder.

The mini-Matador, looks like it was one those that Duxford had built to tow the passenger trailers around the museum area. Two were sold off to some acquaintances who were involved with the REME Historic Vehicle Collection. Think they had a Mini engine and gearbox and Vauxhall axle if memory serves me.

They are operated under a contract or lease hire as I recall, a deal set up as part of the procurement package, forget the details now. Part of it was to do with supplying operators as well.

If the stud has not broken off flush, get a nut that will slide over and weld it to the stud, this will in turn heat the stud up expanding it in the hole, flood it with easing fluid as it cools, but use a spanner and gently move it backwards and forwards a fraction at a time and you will find it will work free. Better than having to drill and tap.

Larry, As a MVT member you only need look in the Windscreen magazine at the winter runs members do with their vehicles (not just Land Rovers). Then there are those that go to the Ardennes regularly, often in snow or wintery conditions. There are quite a few New Years Day events too.

Well done to Phil :thumbsup:

Larry, Page 17, last item with a Hillman part number is a push rod. Also, a clue you gave about the pin coming out, if it had come out far enough for Item 16 to drop out, the pump lever may not be aligned with the push rod as it is a spacer to centralise the lever. As for fitting an electric pump, well you can if you wish but nothing wrong with AC lift pumps if in good order, it is yours or the owners choice. regards, Richard

Terry you are not saying you were doing 80 mph? Good grief, you must have wedged the rotor arm cut out I know NSW rules are different to SA over club rego as the subject recently came up.

Hi Terry, The Historic or Club rego system in Australia is a bit of a pain, having to submit where you are going and when with your vehicle and only allowed to use it for event and limited testing. We have complete freedom with our Historics, so long as they are not used for trade purposes, and now there are no inspections required for all pre-1960 vehicles. No tax fee either, a reasonable insurance fee. I have experienced your system, filling in log book daily, etc. regards, Richard

I fitted an Autosparks loom to a MW, very satisfying and looks smart under the bonnet.

Hi Sean, The wheel cyl, 35707 is listed as Austin 1 ton 4x4 (civilian), K9 obviously and is one of the front cylinders used on LH or RH in upper or lower position, ie LHF upper and RHF lower.

Larry, You have to read the parts list as it is not all shown in the pictures. It is obvious that the lift pump is on the opposite side of the engine to the camshaft. There is a pushrod (not illustrated but listed) that follows the cam lobe and in turn operates the pump. I explained this before that it could be worn or broken. The Hillman AC pump is similar to an Austin tilly but the method of operating is different, Austin having a lever that follows the cam directly. It could also be part of the cam operated linkage in the pump is worn or adrift because the and primer generally has a longer stroke on the diaphragm hence why it runs for a bit on hand priming.

It seems odd that the number of WW1 events during the next 4 years is questioned when no one thinks of all the WW2 commemorative events such as Dunkirk, Battle of Britain, D-Day, Ardennes, Arnhem, VE Day and VJ Day (just to name the main ones) are repeated on the 5 year anniversaries.

Hi Tony, Yes I thought afterwards that those Thornycroft wheels might be of interest to you. What about the rubbers, no chance that they are for the Thorny' ?

Tony, These solid tyres were advertised on this forum yesterday, with photos; http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?47389-Continental-800-x-94-new-old-stock-solid-tyres

I have not got my manual to hand but it looks like there is a pushrod (listed as Plunger rod) that runs through the block horizontally to run off the cam. The rod could be worn (shorter) or the internals of the pump could be worn. Check the suction and pressure on the pump with hand primer first to rule out problems in the valve department.

Sorry, your mention of 'pickup' meant something else to me.

I did not see a Bedford pickup, only a RL recovery. Are you looking at the International (K series?) lorry with USMC painted on the door?

Hi Matt, No, the EMER is not the user handbook. EMER is a number of sections covering levels of repair, you are on a Field Repair operation, and this should cover the hubs, on page 24 http://www.dmkf.dk/Filer_manualer/Ferret%20-%20Field%20Repair.pdf This is the Australian version (EMEI) and they had some slight mods to the securing of the planet carrier, but rest is the same. If you can get a copy or download of the British EMER you will have all the info you need. User handbook is of little use on repair work, only covers servicing tasks that the driver and crew would do normally.

When removing the planet carrier, check the security of the locating dowels fitted in hub carrier. This is important, and also make sure you have all the shims from that location. These are essential for hub bearing adjustment. Any doubts, check the procedures in the Ferret EMER.

Hi Iain, I just looked up NSN and saw that, it was worth a try.

Clive, Is this the one? http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?7062-Humber-PIG-Pictures/page6