Davey089

I've used these people in the past for solder fittings................. www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/categories/vintage-car-parts-taps-pipe-and-fittings-fittings Dave

Looking at the fuel tanks looks like a MK1 but has a strange engine number ?

Ditto , I use the Por15 and I too have poured the excess back into the tin and it stay's fluid . Words Dave Smith, American Car Magazine, April 2016.... There's nothing you can do with the leftovers, you just have to wait for it to set then throw it away, which seems a shame. ? Obviously has money to throw away :-D I have had mine on the shelf for at least 6 months . also in their FAQ'S Quote : 3. Pour in the entire can of POR15 Fuel Tank Sealer and “roll” the tank around so that the inside of the tank is completely coated. Then drain any excess for at least 30 minutes to ensure that the sealer has not “puddled” in the tank. After you’ve done this, pour the drained sealer back into the can, but Don’t Put The Lid Back On The Can Tightly Or It May Explode! ..really

Well I'm still awaiting a response 3 years on :-D................. think I might have to give it another try, is there anyone in particular to speak too ?

Well I'm still awaiting a response 3 years on :-D................. think I might have to give it another try

Me again I'm looking for a NOS or refurbed distributor , tried the usual and they want your eyes plus the old unit ,so if anyone knows of one thats for sale it would be much appreciated :-). Thanks Dave

Interesting , so these were fitted to the bonnet on the aero screen and held in place with bif rivets ? I was wondering how to hold mine in place ,thats solved that Bif rivets it is

I use Miller VSP..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Millers-Oils-VSPe-Power-Plus-Multishot-500ML-Fuel-Additive-Octane-Booster-/282322560220?hash=item41bbbc64dc:g:S8QAAOSwA3dYdiwD

My MW on initial start up the engine would run like it should ,stop it and restart it ,it would misfire , splutter and sometimes not even start...........NGK plugs swapped for J8C's .............cured it . Now only have to cure the steam problem :undecided:

That's an idea worth a try saves taking it apart again .I did warm it up with the rad cap off and there was water flow , maybe its operating intermittently ? ....... probably clutching at straws though .

Hi Mike I lowered the water level to just above the tubes and it no longer pushes water out, fitted a new spring and NOS rad cap and only sends out swirls of steam when I switch off the engine . What's frustrating the engine was totally rebuilt ,the only thing that wasn't replaced with new was the crank . The only thing to do now is a pressure test and see if that shows anything ? or it might be one of those things , like yourself , I'll have to put up with . I did think maybe the NOS rad cap isn't seating properly , I could have tried eliminating that but the problem is it didn't come with one so can't try the original . If I do manage to get to the root of the problem I'm going to fit a Temp gauge just for piece of mind . I did contemplate fitting elec wiper motors but stuck with the originals , something I might regret it at some point Dave

Hello Peter I would be interested in a pair of the engine bay panels Dave

Thanks for that . I thought it was a taper ,when I held it against a flat it gave me that impression . Reading your response I can see what you mean by a short thread with a chaser . Thanks again Dave

Thanks John

Checked the head bolts , all good :-( .Looks like the head is going to have to come off and see if the gasket is dodgy :banghead:fingers crossed it is , still getting wisps of steam out of the rad cap........................

Probably a daft question to some . I'm in the process of making some new Rocker cover studs for the MW and the 3\8" UNC thread on the stud is tapered . The query I have is .............. will the thread in the head be parallel ? if I re cut the new stud with a std die will it suffice ? as its not a sealing joint................. or is it :nut:. What's the reason for using a tapered thread for the rocker cover stud ? I thought a std parallel thread would have been sufficient . Dave

Hi John Yes it has the castellated nut and spring .I set the nut to 9/16" from the top of the filler neck fitted a new spring and also sealed the top of the castellated nut as stated in the manual Dave

I got some from Pinewood studios a couple of years back if thats any help Dave

Thanks John, that would probably be a wise thing to do before I start pulling things apart :-D Dave

Hi John I've just lowered the water level in the rad to around 1/4" above the fins , started it up and ran it for around 15mins no water forced out , (bit happier now ) .This might sound stupid but is it normal for steam to escape from the rad cap when its stopped ? , not being conversant with the MW and this type of rad cap set up I was wondering if this was normal. Dave

Hey up Andy I checked the nut and I have it set at 9/16" from the top of filler neck . Going back to John's suggestion of over filling, what is strange even though its pumped out quite a bit of water its still showing plenty of water looking into the rad filler neck!, so maybe (might be hoping too much ) I might be over filling it . I think I'll still check the head bolts just as a matter of course . What setting would you recommend to torque them down too ? Cheers Dave

When it warms up

Thought I had at first , after being advised to check for overfill I checked it was just covering the fin tops and tried again , unfortunately its still pushing it out .It might sound odd but if to pinch the top hose from the stat housing you can feel the pulse of the engine if that makes sense :-D .I'm suspicious of an engine leak and its bypassing into the coolant system and pushing the water out of the cap .

I have this fitted in mine , hopefully it's the right one , I can't see them being fitted with a small one as standard , then again mine might be the wrong one ? Hopefully not :-D Dave

Well what can I say AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH :banghead:.The truck has started blowing water out of the rad cap , going to do a litmus test on the coolant suspicious of combustion contamination , so head gasket / crack in block..... if it is a crack it wasn't obvious on the rebuild ....... fingers crossed it's just the head that wants nipping down or its a naff gasket.................... if not ?? I'm undecided on what I'll be going to do with it , I dont really fancy taking it all apart again