Ron

I've made a rough sketch of the closing parts. The hex head screws on mine are stainless steel copied from an original, but I made the thread a bit longer as the original was a struggle to reach. Ron

Here are some pix of my G3 and G3L that I already have on file if it helps. The bottom hinge appears to be welded on. You'd have thought they would have rolled it from the same piece of metal? I'll probably be around here all day if you need anything else or measurements. Ron PS. Factory pictures included.

Me too! I got mine back together last night and it started first kick......After it had warmed up, I re-torqued the head bolts, and today I ran it down to Coy Pond to show the ducks. (They went Quackers over it). The clatter is definitely better and since everything now is checked out or renewed, I'll accept that the slight clatter is what it's supposed to sound like. I'll just check the head bolts one last time later (I have a solid copper gasket fitted, so no fear of a modern composite version blowing out) Ron

Today (Wednesdays) is mostly a day off for me, as I go out for the day with my teenage mates (Last of the summer wine!!) But hopefully I'll get back on it later in the day.🤞 Ron

My inlet cam shaft and idler shaft were worn. Brian had a new inlet camshaft, so we pressed my cam gear off the old shaft and onto the new one. He also had a new idler pinion gear shaft which meant I had to somehow pull the old one out. I welded a piece of 6mm studding to the end of the old shaft and with a metal block with a hole in to use as a slide hammer, and after some heat on the crank case from my welding torch and some bumping from my slide hammer, the shaft came out. The new shaft was easily tapped into the engine whilst it was still warm. I also took the head off to reset the timing accurately. I'll finish off tomorrow and hope for a quieter engine! Ron

I'll report back later on our findings and my decision on action. Ron

Well the 50 weight oil didn't make any difference at reducing the clatter (I didn't really think it would) So I've stripped the timing gear train out for inspection. I'm going to visit Brian today in Swanage to see what new parts he can help me with and decide if wear to the inner cam bushes are part of the problem. Although I've found some slop in the idler pinion bush and inlet cam outer bush, which we have already replaced and some wear to the camshafts themselves. I'll see what compromises we can come up with, with any new shafts and gears and easy to replace bushes. Otherwise the engine will have to be stripped. In which case I guess I'll be taking one of the Royal Enfield's to France. Ron

AS stated. No MOT required for historic vehicles. The onus is on us that they are roadworthy. Ron

PS. Just spoke to Brian, who recommends 50 also in the engine. So i'll be buying a gallon at Kempton on Saturday. Ron.

As per the book. SAE 50. Ron

I would have been completely stuffed without help when I built my experimental 350 Royal Enfield. Apart from the silencer, rear carrier and lots of other parts that we had to make......Take a look at the unique oil tank come air filter!! Ron

I've worked on and saved a few "U/S" dynamos over the years, and here is some of the info that has helped me. Ron https://matchlessclueless.com/electrical/lucas/testing-lucas-dynamo/

That's a good price! I've seen them for up to £300!!!! The dome glass type usually have a window for a glimmer of illumination from a corresponding slot in the reflector. Ron

My 5SW engine is a bit rattly in the the timing chest, despite having replaced the worn bushes in the timing cover and idler gear. The cams looked fine, I can only put it down to the lash in the timing gears. I haven't really listened to anyone else's SV Triumph to determine how normal it is for these. There will always be a 'clack' as the lash in the gears at the point where the lift of the cam is transferred from pushing the valve open to being pushed by the closing valve. Ron

Well I've screwed the screws in one full turn each which still leaves it quite light at the handlebar. All seemed ok on a 3 mile test run today. Ron

Glad to here that you met up with my mate Dave and his WD Norton Model 18. He's in Gloucester and obviously made it over Offa's Dyke to your country. The front mudguard was in a terrible state so he entrusted it to me. It came up well, even if I do say so myself. When he came down to collect it, he took the bike to my tube guy for a bespoke SS front pipe and also bought a SS silencer from Armour's which he grit blasted in my cabinet. The bike pulls really well, even with Wendy perched on the canvas bag bum pad...... I've offered to rub in some goose grease.😉

I see you made it to Caldicot Castle Steve! Ron

They are called 'Butted Spokes' I'd try Les at Russell's first. Then one of the wheel companies like 'Devon Rims' Ron

23" is too short Jan! I make it more like 24 1/2" from end of thread to end of thread. JJ Cables can make them cableman7@hotmail.co.uk Also look at http://www.cornucopia-enterprises.de/ for speedo parts and gears., Ron

The civilian reg numbers were dropped early and the military registration system was adopted. which was usually displayed on both sides of the vehicle and often on the rear. Ron

Well there's an offer that beats trailering it to Bournemouth. Ron

JJ Cables (01926 651470) can make exactly what you want. Especially easy if you can give them your old cable to copy. Ron

I would want to pull the whole clutch off and start from basics. What is your location for moving the bike? Ron

Here is the difference between the C and CO box. Apart from the larger heavier nature of the CO box, the clutch operating arms face opposite ways. Ron

I believe that the Burman boxes were fitted to just one batch of 3000 bikes known as WD/CO/B. I guess there was a supply issue at the Albion factory? Your bike has a WD/C (Albion box) which has a thinner main-shaft spline for the spider that the heavier CO box. The part number is G69....... (G69A for the CO box:- A = amended) Ron