Ron

That's a repro Lucas MT110 which was a period lamp and nowadays comes with a twin filament bulb. Cheap as chips and the best way to go. A genuine MT110 can be up to £200 and more on ebay. Ron

I'd go along with that Jon. Ron

Well as a theft proof device, it's pretty useless. I've never heard of anyone bothering to fit one to a bike. Just a fuse in the Poss cable. Ron

Ah well that's good news. 1/16" out of line is not the end of the Earth, your chain should cope with that ok, but I would simply find/make a 1/16" washer to bring it in line anyway. Ron

Am I right in thinking that the clutch will only have one fully home position and therefore if the oil plate is holding it off, there will be some awful rubbing noises? Here is the exploded engine from the 3HW parts list which mentions that washer as No 72. Although I can't see it listed in the shock absorber section?? Ron

It's not very obvious about that washer Gareth but it's sort of semi shown in the 3HW parts list as #E1732. Mine was missing when I built my 3HW and Brian Tillin made me one. As you say, it's quite thin, but I can't remember if it was a spacer shim to keep the splined sleeve clear of the crank case, or to help eliminate the oil passage through the main bearings? So far I haven't found it in the 1939 parts list. I'd just carry on and fit it. It will have hardly any effect on the chain run. Ron

That's absolutely fine. I just thought that since you started the thread with pictures, you might have wanted some feed back with additional information. But now I know that you already know it all and have better things to do, I'll let you get on with it in your own fashion. Ron Done!

OK I'm with you now. I don't think I've ever seen the two rods under the engine before. Is that an add on? Just heads up also, you might have to watch the clearance between the saddle and toolbox (especially over any bumps) The WD frames where modified to raise the saddle and move it back to accommodate the toolbox which in turn was re-positioned under the saddle to make room for the Maze air filter. Ron

Ha Ha! You've painted it since the last picture an hour ago!! Ron

I guess it's mostly post war civilian. Certainly the frame, front wheel, head/tail lamps and foot rests. If you count the teeth on the rear sprocket WD =35T ..Civy = 34T. Any idea of engine number? BTW I know you've only loosely hung it, but the front wheel goes the other way round🙂 Ron

From what I can see in the exploded views in the parts list and manual, the surface should be flat. I think I'd take it to a competent welder and get it TIG welded and surface ground back to the original shape, Even experienced use of a sander and file would do it. Either that, or if the wear depth is even, a thrush washer of the required thickness in two halves could be used and somehow fixed/spot welded in place. I guess the two grooves are for oil exit of the big end and will need to be preserved. A good all round precision engineer will think of a way round it! Is the other side the same? Ron

I would try Steve Surbey http://www.amcclassicspares.com/ or Les at Russell Motors 02072281714. BTW it's a G3L. Ron

Gareth there is a thrust button in the clutch pressure plate with a blind hole that I put a blob of grease in before assembly. The adjuster at the other end of the push-rod has a ball end. Both are available from Draganfly (look under pre unit twins, they're all the same) Ron

The old cork plates seemed to need oil, but the modern Surflex plates that are supplied these days for most bikes will work dry. Good luck with the M20.....My favourite old plodders! I've just built a 600cc engine in this old bone for a friend. It started first kick, only to find that the cush drive spring is wrong or knackered. Kicking myself now for not trying it before I buttoned up the blooming primary case.😡 Ron

It's not so much about the plates, it's more about lubrication and cooling the chain and oiling the clutch bearing. Having said that, I've run my special dry for 1000's of miles, which is a dry clutch anyway, But I have a special chain and air cooling and spray chain lube. Ron

Duke I think the top one with the smaller spline is what was fitted to the 250 models (D,S,SF etc) and is exactly what I originally fitted to my experimental DC which is a 350. (first 3 pix) I soon realized that it should have had the bigger cush drive clutch, (4th pic) and like you went on the hunt for the spider with the small spline. I was also thinking of getting one made but fortunately an old RE bloke had one which he donated. I wonder if you would actually notice a difference without the cush? For instance, the special I built, which is a effectively a BSA M20 with a much more powerful Indian 741 engine fitted has no cush ( nore dose an Indian 741 in it's natural form,) and I can't say I notice any difference. Likewise when my M20 first came to me 30 odd years ago, a previous owner had locked the cush drive and I rode it without knowing for a while. Not the end of the earth to give it a try and swap it at a later date. Ron

Here it is on my 3HW. But it's not always there. Sometimes it's a repeat of the frame number and sometimes there is nothing.

You can contact Roger on his published email address, chairman@velocetteowners.com Ron

Two Velo's? Could only be Roger and Jane Franklin. Ron

Hi Jon Sounds like you had an eventful week, fortunately we had no breakdowns with my group, but I did see others falling by the wayside. The 60 bikes that I led on the Don Fife memorial run (75% in the rain) all made the 80-90 mile trip with no problems, likewise the 80 bikes that I took to Pegasus gathering at the museum made it there and back. (I'm told 160 bikes counted at the gathering). Of the 150 caps that I took to France, I brought 3 back. 2 where ordered by a Dutchie who's since been in touch and the one that you ordered. I had plenty of spares, but was selling them to whoever asked, as I didn't want to be landed with them. I'll PM you my paypal details and cost. Cheers Ron

Well done Steve. Good to meet you too. Regards Ron

Sorry no! The tank came without any fittings. Ron

We're on the 8am fery from Poole tomorrow (Friday 31st) and should be at the Etreham campsite by about 2ish. Nothing serious with the 5SW. It's just that I'd like to get to know it better first. Ron

I still have a couple of niggling issues with my 5SW that has swayed my decision to take it to France after all. So the old faithful Royal Enfield WD/G is loaded in the van. I'll give the Triumph more mileage on home turf on my return. Ron

I would first try Tony Cooper for mag parts .........I think he's trying to retire.....But worth a call though. Tony Cooper Motorcycles 110, Olive Lane, Halesowen, West Midlands, B62 8LT Tel 0121 559 2405 Fax 0121 561 2410