Ron

I can't pin point it, but these bikes are from contract C3360 in 1939 and clearly show the clamp (also note the 6" headlamps) and we know of 1940 bikes with and without the welded on pivot, obviously at some point in 1940. We can only narrow it down by a process of elimination and any photographs that may show it??? What contract is your bike from? Ron

Indeed Steve. I have very good engineers around me, unfortunately not getting any younger and heady for retirement😢 They are perfect copies and they did 3 pairs for me at £100 each pr, which considering the normal hourly rates of today, I thought was very reasonable. Ron

Lucas numbering can get complicated and I'm not fully conversant with them. Some of the pre-war ammeters had a BM number, and at that time in 1939 there was a period of just using civilian stuff for WD ....to modified and purpose made for WD. Unless you want to get into the research of exactly how your bike might have left the factory, which can sometimes be very difficult as although the parts might have changed, often the part numbers didn't, and it sometimes has to be done with photographic evidence, which of course are usually B&W..... Some of us have been squinting and zooming in for 20-30 years and still never know for sure. As far as the ammeter is concerned, a straight forward CZ27 which covered the whole of war-time, Lucas equipped bikes will suffice. However I know a guy who can supply or fit a dome glass for a 1939 effect if required. I have 2 or 3 with a dome glass, but I think only one that has the illumination window. Again I have 2 or 3 with a plated bezel, which would have been fazed out for economy and to speed up supply as war progressed. Otherwise most of my CZ27's have bare brass bezels as on my 3SW here. Ron

Yes Steve it's the only one I've ever seen, and now fitted to my 5SW. My engineer copied the clamp for my 3SW and a couple of mates. Ron

Nope! As Steve said, his bike has the later welded on field stand pivot. Here is my complete original field stand again....With the clamp on pivot. Ron

I've see them dearer than that😕

No they're all Lucas. You can read it on the face of the ammeter I posted. They are the pre-war version with an illumination window inside the headlamp and the headlamp reflector had a slot in it to let some light through to the ammeter window. ....I doubt that anyone was blinded by it though! Ron

Did who use Jaeger what?

Actually I think all of the headlamps you see in that shot are DU42 6" headlamps but I do have about 7 or 8 bikes with DU142 8" lamps, but it's over 30 years of collecting and restoring. Ron

PS and also a dome glass CZ27 ammeter with illumination panel inside. Ron

A 1939 bike would most likely have had a spigot drive Jaeger pattern speedo. Ron

Well considering that our WD bikes wouldn't have had registration numbers, it's just a case of whatever pleases you. I just buy number plate digit stencils from https://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/ Or you can buy waterslide numbers from Marcia at https://classictransfers.co.uk/product-category/registration-letters-numerals/ Ron

Yes you are right about the regulator Steve. 'Lead Acid' was stamped on the early war regulators to distinguish them from the previous Ni-Fe (Nickel Iron) type. As time passed and everything was fitted with lead acid batteries, the stamping was dropped. The nice thing these days is, if it doesn't work, you can gut it and fit a modern solid state regulator inside and solder the wires to your original posts, so it looks all original from the outside. I recommend these.........From heart ache experience 😕http://dynamoregulators.com/dvr2.php Ron

3 or 4 I guess. I'm probably guilty of not following the instructions to the letter by over coating too heavily........I just can't help myself....But it seems to work ok. There's less heat involved with an OHV. I've only done about 40 miles on my 5SW so far, so we'll see how it fairs with some decent mileage. It's bound to tarnish around the first bend and if it gets too bad it's only a total of about half and hour to remove and replace the system .....plus rubbing down and drying time in between. Ron

It's the same finned clamp on all three WD models and some of the pre-war models.# E1270. Ron

Just a heads up chaps. The exhaust pipe clamp at the cylinder on Triumphs is a finned clamp. I realized ages ago that I'd missed it on my own 3SW. It's quite a generic type and I bought one from Armour's in readiness to blast and paint black sometime. Ron

Oh that's really handy!!

I'd go with that, but it's not cheap! The only problem with Jiri's stuff that I've encountered is (or was) the single flash chrome which all fell off on a pair of levers that a friend bought off him and asked me to blast to dull the chrome. I've blasted good old British triple chrome lots of times.......I'd try and buy it un-plated if poss. Ron

Try Armours. Mention my name if you want. they call me 'Military Ron' 😎 https://www.armoursltd.co.uk/product-category/exhausts/

The Czech guy will be Jiri Horice....Good man! https://www.vintage-replica.cz/packy/ Ron

As Tomo says, but otherwise known as the gearbox lower fulcrum pin. The sleeve nut fits on the NS under the primary chain case. Ron

Try Peter Long at http://www.cornucopia-enterprises.de/ I had 4 pairs off him a few months ago and he said they were the last, but he might have been fibbing. I've only got one pair left now to go with the repro field stand as a complete kit. Ron

Graham the field stand you have (complete with spring clip) is for a BSA WM20 and will be easy to sell on. The earlier WD Triumph's didn't have a welded on field stand pivot lug. It was quite a complicated clamp on. Back in the summer, I was lucky enough to acquire a complete original Triumph field stand which even has the part number stamped into the clamp. This is now on my 5SW. There should be a metal plate welded near the bottom of the down tube as in Gareth's picture, with the two piece Triumph spring clip bolted to it. I had to make and weld this plate on and can give measurements if required. I do happen to have a spare "repro" Triumph field stand and a pair of spring clips.......Which are now hard to find.

You don't say if you have a maintenance manual? http://robvanmeel.nl/?q=content/austin-light-utility-4x2-maint-manual-ref-2194-122-p-a4 It's a fairly small box although its cast iron so quite heavy...... From memory :- Tunnel off- Gear stick off- Put a support jack under the sump- Undo prop, speedo cable, clutch pedal, bell hosing bolts and anything else I've forgotten, lower jack to required level and pull the gearbox back and down. Someone might know a clutch reline service in your area, but the Cleckheaton division here will do. it. https://saftek.co.uk/ If your clutch cover needs work or your release bearing needs renewing, you might need to google around or come back for further advice. For reassembly you will need to align the plate so that its in the center of the flywheel. I made an alignment tool for mine from a piece of broom handle which I whittled for the flywheel center and built up with insulating tape for the clutch plate spline, but nowadays you can buy a kit for under a tenner. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-17pc-Clutch-Alignment-Tool-Kit-Hand-Bearing-Transmission-Tool/391796563431?epid=8011025950&hash=item5b38e51de7:g:w80AAOSwPcVVwGZC:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true Ron

Yes your tank is correct other than it has a pre-war filler cap (with damaged fin) All the WD bikes had hot cross bun caps. The 3HW tank was amended to take a copper pipe with acorn nut on a threaded fitting outside the frame. The breather pipe (Rubber or copper) just poked into that hole on the saddle tube......And why not? will help save the frame from rusting from the inside. Ron