MiketheBike

I find that just leaving a low wattage light on keeps out the worst of the damp...maybe my garage is exceptionally dry anyway? So..the water is distilled? So if I leave some rotting apples in the garage, with the humidifier on, would that distill the apple laden moisture? That could be interesting (if my logic wasn't so badly flawed)

I thought Lee was quiet...no screw-ups to fix

Could be the fuel pump, certainly sounds like a rythmic ticking on a Ferret, and nothing to worrry about

Well, the simonbbc electronic ignition install was a piece of cake. 15 minutes to install and adjust the timing and it appears to run a lot better and start better when hot. At the price I may just but another one as a spare and keep the points and condesner as a backup backup!!!

Welcome Andy, just up the road from you in Mayford. Mick

Neil, PM sent Mick

Finally got the beast running with the standard (non-ballast) coil and new points. I also noticed sparking at the points, which has stopped after a third condensor swap...not sure if the "electronic ignition" coil had screwed up one of those...maybe not....where is Clive's Megger when you need it Also, the LT lead (distributor to coil) had a broken connector...so it kinda worked ok when cranking, but as soon as there was any vibration it appeared to cut out, so re-terminated that...I think it was due to all the pulling about as there were no problems with it before I touched it. Thanks for your help and pointers....look forward tp getting the module from simonbbc on Friday and retiring the points to a backup role Mick

I have ordered one up, and had a quick chat with them...£39 all up which seems an absolute steal. They do have sets that run with low resistance coils, but its a complete distributor (works out at about £120 delivered for the V8 version), and he says I can just use the old cap to keep it looking original...not an issue on 12V systems, but won't look nice on a 24V system I would guess.

Thanks Chris...these are cheap...great value!!

It looks like the coil and ballast has been replaced at some point with a non-ballast coil ("col 201 12 Volt Standard"). I will re-install that old coil and see if she fires up, but may well go for an electronic ignition system rather than mucking about with points. Has anyone used a Petronics unit, and views good or bad?

Richard, I thought that also, but there is no ballast resistor. I assumed (badly) that the ballast was used with a 6V coil...as thats what it says in the workshop manual? I thought if it used a proper 12V coil it would not need the ballast? Mick

Richard, what a complete idiot! Me not you! When you wrote that I thought...its a 12 volt coil, and the guy in the car shop said it was the same as the one I brought in...what could possibly go wrong. After I read your post I went out to the garage and got the box and in the box is a piece of paper with ruddy great big red writing on it I'll get me coat! I'll put the old coil back in tomorrow

I tried to start up the 101 the other day after it being standing for a week or so. Turns over fine but would not fire. Fuel is getting to the carbs judging by the smell. Checked the low tension (-ve) connection at the coil, and it was not great so snipped it off and put a new spade connector on the wire. The points had closed up, so I opened them up with the distributor adjuster and tried again. It kinda started, but when I took the distributor cap back off it was smoking, and the plastic that holds the points and runs on the cam had melted where it is riveted to the points assembly (that would explain why they had closed up in the first place!). Swapped out the coil, points and condenser, and the same thing happened. I want to make sure I connected everything back up correctly...so: on the coil, terminal marked "-" connected to distributor, terminal marked "+" connected to switch (two wires). On the points, the condensor and wire from coil is under the plastic insulator (so insluated from nut and plate holding the points, thus giving an electrical connection to the spring that holds the points). I guess it could be bad condensor(s), the coil is new (not NOS). When I have the distributor cap off, and turn the engine over, the points spark badly....does this suggest condensor, or could there be something else? It all ran fine before the really cold weather, and when I left it standing during the snow Thanks, Mick

If they have Bar Grips, good luck. They are really not much use as I have found on the 101, feels like you are running on slicks (which I guess is what you are doing with no real tread in the centre of the tyre).

Rick, the spare actually has a brand new tube, no puncture. I had that as spare as the tyres that its running on are the best match (with regards diameter). You should be fine with the choke and hand throttle cables, as long as you remember to push the lever in at the carb. Like I say, should not need much choke...only to start her up really, the hand throttle should take of the rest. If its misfiring, that has always been cured by cleaning the points. I will check the box I am sending to you...pretty sure it has two sets of points, condenser and rotor arm in there. If you do not have the B60 engine manual, I will photcopy the pages on the carb and send them to you (although I have spent ages setting the carb and I think its pretty much spot on). Mick

Hi, sorry, I have been without internet for a few days so did not see the post. The points do seem to carbon up quite quickly, and running some fine wet and dry between the contacts always sorted it out for me (its does splutter a lot when they are dirty, especially when you press the accelarator. All the leads are fairly new, including the one to the coil. Other thing to note is there is a fair bit of drag on the choke cable, so when you push the choke in, also push the choke arm on the carb to make sure its fully home...that said it rarely needs choke, just some throttle (and leaving the idle high while it warms up). Its easier to unscrew the hand throttle control if you press the throttle while doing it). When I got the ferret it had a cobbled together fuel filter and hoses. As I could not get the proper pipes from the fuel filter, I used some pretty heavy duty fuel hose. The fuel tap is connected so that the top of the tap points to the side where the fuel is being drawn...if that makes sense. With regards it not firing....now I have done this a couple of times myself...you have put the rotor arm back in? I have packaged up a bunch of stuff and hope to get it off to you this week, and includes some manuals. Mick

Hi Rick, glad you are happy with it. I have another small delivery for you of stuff I forgot on the day. Will get that in the post to you in the next couple of days. I had a quick tour around Paul's toys....very jealous!!! Mick

Hi, it only hisses when up to temp, and also when up to temp with the engine turned off (until I release the pressure). I checked the oil and there is no gunge....you did make my heart sink though!! I crimped the tabs down a bit on the rad cap, and its hardly doing it now (but will still get a new cap), and its lost no water after a few short runs. Super Mick

Clive, I think you are right, certainly cannot do any harm. WOuld you suggest just running it through with a hose, or using rad-flush?

After all that I think it was just the radiator cap. At normal running temp its hissing, so the run back after purchasing I just think it lost a lot of water....what a numpty. It may be that the cap is knackered or its the incorrect cap. I see that craddocks have them, so at £1 each I may as well buy a couple

Marmon...FJ does just that. The 101 is just added to the original policy I have for the Ferret.

I have not had much of a chance to check it out as I have put my back out, so cannot even get in to drive it How much force should there be from teh fan with the engine at working temp? I have looked in the small hatch where the oil filler is and its not a gail. Hopefully if my back plays ball I will have a look at all those points at the weekend. Thanks guys Mick

Rick, you will be happy to know that yours had a new fuel pump (including gaskets) just after I bought it, it also has a new Carb with base gasket/spacer Mick

Just added the 101 to the Ferret insurance (£110 with FJ) for an extra £28, which includes a £20 admin fee...thats up to end of Jan when its up for renewal but still flippin' good value....and at least they know what you are talking about when you call them!!