MiketheBike

After that curry, if I pull my knee up like this, hold my breath, and push really hard, I think I can blow his hat off!

Thanks Paul, actually, after having a browse through Andy's always excellent Ferret site, I found what I needed to find in the "Brakes" section. Its quite clear its 1 1/2" from his pics, as its written in bleedin great numbers on the side Mick

I contacted a dealer who has master cylinders listed on ebay, they think the ferret is 1 1/4", but I think the ferret ones are 1 1/2" (and checking Andy Ferretkit's posting a whiles back, he suggested its an 1 1/2) There is a guy selling these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lockheed-Master-Cylinder-1-1-2-Austin-Dodge-BMC-/310230103437?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item483b27b58d does anyone know if they would do the job? Mick

Thanks Chris...good idea. Mick

thanks Paul, I think the overhaul kit may the answer, or the one that i son ebay (1.5inch Lockheed master cylinder), as you say, it looks the same, and it the same as the one that Andy posted up here yonks ago. If I am doing that, I may as well replace the pressure switch...is it a standard fitting? There are some on ebay at the mmoent with "standard taper thread" and others with "BSP thread" or "3/8 x 24 UNF". As the body of the pressure switch stands out a bit from the master cylinder, does that mean its a taper thread? Cheers Mick

oh I see...you mean the master cylinder itself rather than the pressure switch? is this the correct master cylinder? : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lockheed-Maste...item483b27b58d

ok, if you want a problem diagnosed...don't ask me.... should've listened to Griff...it seems to be the pressure switch after all. I will give bannisters or Margus Glenn a call to see if they have them. I assume its impossible to change without draining the master cylinder? Mick

Me too, just need to fix the brake lights...hopefully if it ain't raining at the weekend

I know Andy posted a link to a lockheed master cylinder on ebay early this year, but that item is no longer there...is this the same model as ferret: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lockheed-Master-Cylinder-1-1-2-Austin-Dodge-BMC-/310230103437?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item483b27b58d Obviuosly hasn't got the filler tube, but guess that would be just screwed on the top?

Thanks Paul, mmm...sounds like one of my famous "5 minute jobs" Looking at the rust on the unions on the master cylinder, I want to leave that for the winter nights! I need to take the master cylinder out at some point to replace the blow off valve on the right hand bevel box anyway. I ordered up one of those relays that Chris recommended, someone is selling the exact same model for £4.99 on ebay, so may be a cheap check before delving into the master cylinder.

Hi Griff, I was thinking more of leaving the ferret standing rather than driving. In the "off" position, the brake light obviously still comes on when the relay if operated, but in the "N" position, the relay does not operate...thought it may be a better place to have the switch in case of issues like this? Mick

You got me thinking, and thought my prognosis may be wrong. With eveything connected and an ohmeter across the sender, I could see a short, and midway through the stroke it went to open circuit, then back to short with the pedal depressed. So I thought the sender was at fault. When I disconnected the leads from the sender, it works as I would suspect, so I assume the relay is at fault...it almost sounds like the relay is holding itself on. I have left it disconnected for now and will order up that relay. If I leave the light switch to the "N" position, would that help with problems like this running down the batteries (I really must fit a battery cut-off switch..I bought one just after I got the ferret and have been too lazy to work out where to mount it!!!)

thanks Chris, I am right, its this silver relay on the right?

tried to start the Ferret today and the batteries were flat, found out the brake lights are stuck on. I do not think its the pressure sender, but it may be what I think is a relay on the right side of the speedometer? With the brake pedal not operated, the brake lights are one, as I travel through the stroke they go off and then back on again, when I release the pedal they stay on. Also sometimes you can hear the relay chattering/buzzing. I managed to keep flicking the brake pedal until the lights stay off, then when I short the pressure switch terminals, the brake lights come on and stay on. Do you think my logic is correct (I could just measure across the pressure switch terminals, but that would be far too easy. Next question.... does that relay just get held in by two screws, and is it a case of just taking out and replacing, without taking the entire control panel out? Mick

sounds nice so...are you, as the driver, able to stand up and check at junctions? I guess as a auto you can just creep forward on the brake?

I used this exhaust bandage on the ferret on the joints between the manifolds and the connector pipes, works a treat and been on there for over a year. I found it keeps that flexibility between the joints but muffles that blowing Cannot remember where I got it, but this is the same: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20M-Exhaust-Manifold-Heat-Wrap-Bandage-20-SS-CABLE-TIE-/130419337428?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM#ht_2238wt_1021

How many do you think you could fit in a big container

Paul...you are so right. I always like to practice on someone elses stuff first, if it screws up, you walk away and get yours done right!!!

I gotta admit, for me its the best looking wheeled armour, on my wish list and much more practical than a Ferret for the Sainsburys or Wickes run Maybe I will trade the ferret in one day for one.

could it be the other two are not working, and all the braking is being done by the left front/rear right? Maybe explains why the two that are working are getting hotter than they should and the others are cold?

Lee...now you have me worried. Until I fixed my handbrake, I used to do exactly as Mark is doing. I does not lock the wheels up, but certainly stops it rolling freely on a level or very slight slopes. It does make me think though, as my understanding of the fluid flywheel is that there is little or no drive transferred at very low (ie zero) engine revs? So the engine should not be holding it? Mick

Griff, are they on their site...had a look and could not see them? Mick

Wow...now thats a tidy turret!!! I wish mine looked that complete!

sounds like you could have made the "Darwin Awards" if it had all gone pear-shaped!

Thanks Guys... Richard, I know where you are coming from, we had a skip delivered the other week but I missed him when he came to collect the skip...could have used the lifter on the back of his lorry Mike, I have refurb'ed the turret ring, so may try fitting that first (I will used some mastic tape I got from a chandlers). Would you say attach the ring to turret first, or would it be just as easy mounting the ring first, then mount the turret? Cheers Mick