Diana and Jackie

Diana

Thd correct and SAFE ply rating for Ferret tyres is 16.. anything less and the sidewall is too thin and weak Diana

LHM brake fluid (commonly used in some Citroen and Jaguar cars) = mineral brake fluid = green brake fluid (often but not always). Diana

Remove fuse from rev limiter, fuse is adjacent to ignition coil, if it fixes it you have a faulty rev limiter. Diana

Diana

A Million Bullets: The Real Story of the British Army in Afghanistan - Jacking Strut Collapses and Kills a soldier Page 249 Diana

Not an expert on these matters but I believe your assumption to be correct. I also believe there are two oil seals which may need replacing (or to be more accurate if one is U/S then the other is also likely to be on its way) and you will need new clutch linings. Diana

Be aware, as I discovered, there are possible differences in the Land Rover Cylinder and the CVRT cylinder, it would seem the main bore seal and size can be matched but the small seal at the rear of the piston, which may appear the same along with its piston are different, the trick is to re-use the small seal rod and spring. The end of the small seal rod should completely fill the inside of the mineral oil seal. Diana

It is possible for the cog wheel you mention to be damaged, this is the damage I referred to. Its also possible for the adjuster to be wound so far up that it won't adjust anymore - this is the other situation I refer to when I talk about maladjustment and this seems a the most likely cause.. The other possible but unlikely options are drum overskimmed or leading edge of shoes in the wrong position relative to the forward motion of the vehicle brake drum in question. Hope that helps Diana

Hi Vince, Suggest you wind in both adjusters, if you have the drum off you can or should see this happen, as the bottom shoe pin (for want of a better word) goes in and as does the top shoe pin. With the drum fitted, wind out (clockwise) the adjuster which is the outer square of the two adjusters until the shoe contacts the drum, then wind in again clockwise the hex bolt head (or inner adjuster head) until the opposing shoe contacts the drum. Then tweak both as required. There is generally some small free play in the wheel if its off the road and the amount of wheel rock can determine if the shoe is in contact with the drum, the correct way is to jack up the vehicle completely off the ground or at least one side in turn, It is possible to mal-adjust the brakes such that only one shoe contacts the drum, it is also possible again through maladjustment to damage the adjuster, the damage can be seen with the drum off if one observes how it works. When all wheel brakes have been adjusted the next move is to adjust the linkage such that when the handbrake is pulled equally on all 4 drums so they lock together. This is best done with the escape hatches off as the to do this adjusters for the rear wheels are under the battery boxes. The front wheel adjusters are easily accessible inside the vehicle from the drivers seat. Diana

Probable this seal kit will work too Diana http://www.malpasonline.co.uk/itm/Brake-Cylinder-Seal-Kits/David-Brown-CASE-Tractor-Master-Cylinder-Brake-or-Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-Seal-Kit/57736

The frequency response of most speech telephone equipment is tailored to voice not music 300 Hz ~ 3Khz Diana

The CVRT handbrake is made by Neate Brakes, now owned by TB Davies UK. They are located in Bridgend South Wales who are happy to have individuals contact them. TBDUK Ltd Waterton House,Waterton Industrial Estate Bridgend, CF31 3US United Kingdom Mon - Fri 08.30 to 17.00 Tel: 00 44 (0) 16 5665 2202 Fax: 00 44 (0) 16 5665 2229 Diana

The Cylinders were originally supplied by AVMERITOR who sold on that part of the business to CARLISLE HEAVY BRAKES. The original part number of the cylinder which is still maintained is PMM111. Carlisle will not sell direct to the public but the seal kit whose part no is MIN19 can be obtained from Bristol Heavy Vehicles on 01179 593582 using either a bank transfer or cheque. Diana

Thanks Vince - cant see any signs of a leak, the tank has some fuel in it, no sign of paint bubbling - maybe a pinhole as you suggest. Lots of good ideas from the forum members thanks all. I shall report back if found. Diana

Not a smoker and plenty of new fire extinguishers to hand, also well vented. Fuel pump filter and magnet were both filled with debris, main filter was Ok. Carburettor was also filled with many particles of either rust or sand (or maybe both) I'll look forward to removing the commanders seat ! Diana

All checked no leaks at pump or filter - I am beginning to suspect the seal around the commanders seat as the most obvious culprit for the fumes now that its been mentioned in the next post by Chris. - yet another nightmare! Diana

Yet to start delving but there are no petrol leaks in the fuel tank, but the fumes in the vehicle are horrific and it has to be vented before I can work on it. Has anyone any ideas where the source maybe? and where is the breather system. I've located the water drain around the filler cap and the filler seems quite airtight. Diana

Be aware that Carlube have discontinued SAE10w-40 mineral oil Diana

As one who knows about and has done lots of such things- depends on how much heat.

Try : Remove Jet, remove cleaning needle, re-assemble with cleaning needle removed and try again. If it still leaks then either the valve isn't shutting off or there is a problem with the casting. On the site mentioned in this thread there is a sectioned cut-away of the whole thing. Diana

Try heat - small mini butane torch directed at the metal to metal joint, but not red hot of course. Diana

FR4 - operation Rumplestiltskin :-D

Fr 4.......

Odd joke - potential racism Diana