Diana and Jackie

Quite clearly Richard given your vast experience and you have worked on this equipment for a living, you do know what you are talking about. Obviously my thoughts and yours run in a similar vein therefore it must be a mod worth doing. Diana

Others have fitted sight glasses so I intend to follow suit. Diana

Hi, Does anyone know the thread form and size for the filler plug fitted on the extension tube to the bevel boxes oil filler plugs of a Ferret. I'm planning to fit sight glasses and the spares book is very confusing on this issue of threads and the filler plug - better to ask the question before I remove the plug to check out its details Diana

My Guess, without a front on photo, is either it's a line (telephone) loss measuring oscillator, or an audio oscillator used for a variety of tasks including measuring power output of a transmitter. Diana

Sorry, totally disagree. To find a high resistance series connection the circuit should be energised and the place where the voltages changes i.e where the volts drop occurs, is the place where the high resistance joint occurs. Not forgetting that the meter resistance will have an affect, particularly on low current circuits. One cannot find a high resistance connection using an ammeter, excepting to determine that particular circuit is not operating correctly (has a high resistance series connection), unless of course one pokes about and disturbs connections, which is not recommended as there maybe multiple connections at one point, or the fault maybe intermittent such as a dry joint, especially on PCB's. Far better to find the fault and deal with it. The other good reason is an AVO (or some versions) have a mechanical cutout, Digital meters have (often but not always) a special high speed fuse. If a connection error occurs then the possibility exists to damage/destroy the meter or destroy the fuse (which is a pain in the bum to find a replacement for). The alternative method is to use an ohmmeter or Wheatstone bridge however where there are small high resistance series joint. (and there is always some resistance in a circuit and even meter leads) the determination of the relevant actual amount affecting the circuit in question is often quite difficult, especially when high currents are involved. Meters should ALWAYS be stored switched to the highest possibly AC voltage, that way when you go to use them if you forget to change ranges there is less likelihood they will be damaged. Of course if the circuit fuse pops perpetually then use and ohmmeter to go through the circuit to find the shunt low resistance or short circuit Diana

Cant agree on that, less strain on battery and starter motor as the engine turns to pump fuel. With a mechanical pump your pumping until the carburetor is filled with fuel. With an electric pump the fuel is there within a few seconds. A definite must do like fitting a electronic ignition. Diana

We have one fitted to ours as well. So much better than taking off access plates, crawling underneath and getting dirty! A definite one for the must do list..... Diana

I totally agree with Clive, any moving coil voltmeter, even cheapie ones, are far superior to a digital meter for doing electrical testing on classic/historic vehicles. I also agree with Clive regarding the ballast resistor, a quickie test is to short them (yes there are two resistors) out with a jumper lead (lead with crocodile clips on each end) and see if the engine runs, alternatively a fast check with a testmeter set to ohms (an ohmeter) and see if the figure compares with the diagram spec. In the case of low value resistors here a digital meter is useful as long as one is aware that the figures can be misleading i.e the meter probes need to make good contact with the component being tested. If you've tested all the other components then there's not much left to test. The capacitor across the points can fail and sometimes its diagnosis is confusing. Lastly those nasty bullet connectors used on the Ferret and other vehicles can develop a poor connection, again through corrosion, clean them up and apply silicon grease which is relativity safe for rubber. Check that there is 24 volts or thereabouts on the positive feed to the coil ballast resistors. Diana

Simple Damp = corrosion, often caused by either atmospheric conditions or where the person assembling it in those days handled the resistance wire/component. Diana

There is a resistor that gets shorted out when starting, immediately the engine starts the short circuit is removed. The resistor is in series with the 24v feed to the ignition coil. Highly likely the resistor has gone open circuit. Easy test, switch on the ignition and check for 24 volts (or thereabouts) at coil (voltage will depend upon whether points are closed or not). Diana

Overhaul the carburettor, changing all the diaphragms, ensure the jets are clean and any filters. Ensure there are no airleaks at the carburettor base or inlet manifold where all nuts should be tight, Check the plugs for gap and fouling, check the points gaps, if you can afford it fit electronic ignition. Finally if you feel it necessary change the distributor cap and rotor arm. Though I suspect its a carburettor problem, one of the checks should be the cold start mechanism is correctly set and the altitude adjustment works as it can jam in the wrong position. Diana

As good as we are side bins are out of our league! However find a good sheet metal worker, a pattern and I'm sure you can get them made. D&J PS We had rear mudguards made and galvanised

At least one, which recently appeared on ebay which suggests not a satisfied customer. What is infuriating is our money wasted on this junk - very interesting comments placed after the article.

A lot of EPS Springer Vehicles have been showing up, nearly new and at what would appear to be a very tempting price and bargain. Finally Withams have started to put them out to auction starting at £5000 - at first glance a giveaway! Before anyone rushes out to buy one of these bargains have a read at: http://www.thinkdefence.co.uk/2012/02/springer-when-uors-go-bad/ especially the last few paragraphs. D&J

Obviously a weapon the MOD need to consider as part of its cost saving strategy, especially if AlQuida consider it to be offensive to use it against them! A weapon of the future then? D&J

Having repainted our rear Ferret mudguards and given them an anti slip coating using grain sized polystyrene beads,(off ebay) we were wondering if the engine hatches had an anti slip surface too? The surface of the mudguards is excellent and very resistant to damage, scratching etc - use synthetic paint (which has just started to go tacky) and a salt shaker to shake the beads over the surface, then spray again on top several times allowing drying to tacky before each coat. Mask as appropriate before spraying and shaking! D&J

FV50837 & or FV50838 All details on the parts manual D&J

Thanks Andy, I thought you might reply! Another bodge to sort out, I guessed it was all wrong and its also been rubbing against the fuel tank, which is why it needs a P clip under the manifold. Grateful for confirmation of the routing. Now the hard bit - doing it properly D&J

Just replaced our Ferret Generator - but the cable routing between the Generator and Regulator doesn't look right as it goes below the nearside rear propshaft. The clips adjacent to the fuel filter are all missing which is about to be fixed. Please can someone provide the correct routing of the cable? D&J

Champ Spares? D&J

Dear All, Thanks for all the useful advice! There are two types of adjusting device for the engine fan belt. The latter which I have just received today is more in line with later practice of tensioning the belt. The lesson learnt is do not bend the generator fixing clamp when removing or installing a generator. (and No I didn't but some cowboy did) Picture of both adjuster to follow D&J

Thanks Chris, No split pins visible, but I'll wire brush the lugs and make sure there are no pins through the pin. Then attack as suggested unless there are any further suggestions? By the way did you change it for the same reason? fractured metal clamp ? D&J

Griff, Whilst it is possible to support one lug whilst tapping the pin the other will not be or at least it will potentially move until stopped by the strap as there is a clearance between the strap and lugs longitudally. Is the pin an interference fit in one or both lugs? BTW if anyone wants a really good battle try removing the generator clamp bracket with the engine in situ on a Ferret - Top bolts shouldered 5/8" AF Socket (Top Right cannot be totally removed until all other bolts are removed) Bottom bolt shouldered 5/8" AF Socket Centre Bottom 1/2" AF not shouldered Bottom right Behind the oil tank - 5/8" AF use a clawfoot socket All bolts with spring washers fitted and TIGHT D&J

Hi All, Some clever clogs when replacing the Generator on our Ferret bent and fractured the holding/belt tensioning strap of the Generator in order to replace it. The first picture shows the fracture and the second shows the pin that needs to be removed to renew the strap. The problem is how to remove the pin which is held in two aluminium lugs which are between the generator strap. The wrong method will cause the lugs to break - anyone know how to get the pin out using the correct method? Thanks D&J

Good try though !:angel::angel: