Jump to content

Diana and Jackie

Members
  • Posts

    619
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. CAV is now Prestolite.(ok so some people knew this) Useful training manuals and information on their starters/alternators etc can be found at: http://www.prestolite.co.uk/pgs_training/training_0.php Many vehicles including the Rolls Royce B series have CAV starters fitted to them. D&J
  2. Are you sure about the weight of the turret and base? From the unladen weights given in the user handbook of the liaison and reconnaissance vehicle there is a difference of no more than 5 cwt. The major difference being the provision of a turret and baseplate in the recce vehicle. If the recce or turreted version of the vehicle is driven sensibly on a road or metalled surface, bearing in mind the turreted version does have a tendency to be top heavy, particularly around corners and bends then it is quite safe. I have never had a problem. Off road yes the steering wheel can be whipped out of your hands if a wheel hits an obstacle. D & J
  3. Quite correct Richard: http://vorwahlgetriebe.de/english/pages/home.php AND http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Walter_Gordon_Wilson D&J
  4. http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/lucas_course.html D&J
  5. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/British-Army-Military-Tank-Helmet-Full-Complete-Set-RARE-With-Communications-/160895708592?pt=UK_Collectables_Militaria_LE&hash=item257621adb0 Brand new if you can get them sent to the USA D&J
  6. http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?26009-Daimler-Ferret-Horn-%28Lucas-New-Alto%29-adjustment&highlight=aLTO D&J
  7. Quote from an online source : Correct size screw drivers and spanners only ,try leaving the carb to soak in paraffin for a week .I quite often warm the carb up by pouring hot water over it ,this is not always the answer but it does work for me . D&J
  8. Surprised at this since its freely avalailable here in the UK. As a last resort have you tried Tim Vibert who is in Aus? D&J
  9. Totally correct - not only is the person likely to be left without insurance - and possibly face a bill of many thousands but they will end up on a register of fraudsters and getting any insurance at all will become difficult. All material facts must be disclosed - period ! (see earlier posts) D&J
  10. We've renewed our cover for insurance and breakdown with Adrian Flux. I queried the issue of non renewal of breakdown and in respect of this particular thread. You seem to have been misinformed, breakdown cover is still available with a policy from Adrian Flux, nothing has changed D&J
  11. Yes something to be aware of when buying countersunk cap screws, the thread size maybe correct but the head size is too big (or small). Did consider grinding down the head but maybe it would weaken the head's ability to stand the torque of the allen key, so it's going to be counter boring the existing hole. Why the heads are different is a mystery, one supplier suggested something to do with post and pre1960. D&J
  12. Hi, For what it's worth these are our experiences with studs. A local company believed they could stud weld studs on the armour using a capacitor discharge (CD) stud welder. The studs were mild steel copper plated and the result we very variable. Some would pop off easily, other were a strong weld. Clearly we couldn't rely on this. Its probably likely that a drawn arc (DA) stud welder would do the job and be the right equipment to guarantee a strong weld, that is if you can find one or a company that uses one. In the end the same company used a TIG welder with no filler rod to weld the studs on, and we can confirm they are 100% sound. In fact there was no mushroom at the base of the stud as the armour and stud metal flowed together. The funny thing is that only one guy would do the TIG welding, the others were somewhat scared to touch it! Others on this forum recommend using stainless steel - probably high tensile, that is if you can find some HT studding or else cut down some high tensile stainless bolts. Mild steel is working well for us. D&J
  13. Thanks yet again Richard, This very problem looks like the result of using Silicon! We're well stocked up on Hylomar - ebay being the cheapest. Even have new cap screws (which we'll get plated locally) from Severn Valleys Fasteners, though the Cap holes will have to be counterbored as the Cap screws, although 5/16 UNF need a 1/4" hex key rather than 3/16". and therefore are around 1mm diameter larger in the head. D&J
  14. Hi All, Please can someone/anyone confirm whether or not a Ferret hub cap can be removed and then the outer planet gear without removing all the bits that makeup the inner gearing. The joint between the outer planetary gear and hub cap is leaking oil, We'd like to just renew the joint without disturbing the second joint, but knowing how things like this go, the second joint is likely to need renewing too. D&J
  15. Hi, Yes took it out this weekend and it runs better than ever. Interested to hear how anyone else gets on with ethomix D&J
  16. We started to read up on Ethanol if fuel and decided to do something about it. So we added Ethomix to the fuel tank of our Ferret and started it up a few hours later - amazing difference! idles and runs like a different machine. The tickover is smoother a lot more consistent! D&J
  17. Hi, The procedure for removing the springs is detailed in the handbook, jack up each wheel in turn (on its lower wishbone, outer end) this will allow you to remove the rubber buffers, then with them removed release the tension on the wishbone. The upper spring mount can now be removed as the tension will be off the suspension spring (at least it should be if the pivots aren't seized) To remove the hub remove the bolts (6 off) from the joint between the inner and outer tracta housing, then remove the 8 Allen bolts that hold the upper pivot of the Hub ENSURING that the hub is WELL Supported - a sling and engine hoist on the outer of the hub will do the job, this is important as although the hub is not likely to drop hinging on its lower pivot there is nothing stopping it except friction! You have been warned! and it is VERY heavy! Now you have the problem of extracting the lower pivot. don't forget every hub and bevel box will need to be emptied of oil. If the suspension wishbones are free (which can be as problem) then they can be lifted up enough to give you clearance to get the vehicle in the building. Unfortunately it is likely that the pivot points will either be seized or partly seized so a good heating with an acetylene torch is likely. You are facing a lot of work, personally I'd reconsider getting it on its side with the wheels off and moving it on skids or rollers sideways into your building as others have suggested. alternatively why not just remove the hubs without getting involved with the suspension and upper spring mount if this will give you the clearance you want. D&J
  18. Hi, That is a co-axial type C Connector- takes the output from your VRC321 via the Turf (The front co-ax connector) through this plug and the vehicle chassis and into a further co-ax into a dipole centre. They are quite rare - took us ages to get one. For using the vehicle on the move use a vertical whip (3m to 4M) into a rubber whip base and not this socket. The whip slots into the base. If the whip is 3m then Ok to have it vertical, if 3m then use a slant adaptor so the whip is at an angle. Looks as though someone has chopped the cable and left the connector up inside the fitting, undo the nut at the top of the fitting and the connector will come out. D&J
  19. Go to http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/intercoms_&_radios.htm and it will give you the basic setup. You'll need a Turf (Tuner) connected to the VRC321 with coax, and out of the back of the Turf a short length of stranded wire insulated with bowl insulators into the base of the antenna base connector, alternatively the Turf can be mounted remotely and coax from the "C" connector on the front of the turf using coax to a dipole centre. A Surf (selector unit radio frequency) is only needed in a multi radio setup. From the VRC321 into the harness is a multiple connector & cable into the IB3 this will then pass audio to and from the VRC321 and well as changing it from receive to transmit using the pressel switch going to a headset. The Website also gives details of other boxes which can be connected into the system using the wiring harness. Hope this helps! D&J
  20. You'll probably need an angle grinder with a grinding disc and not a cutting disc as its armour - bit tougher than mild steel :cool2: D & J
  21. Its our experience that some post offices are staffed by numbskulls, such as in ours when they refused to re-licence our Ferret, so we simply complained after I went to the local DVLA office and almost immediately got a new Historic vehicle tax disc. We later got an apology from Royal Mail, which will be about the second or third for that post offices uselessness. It maybe useful to note that if you are refused a new tax disc at a Post office because they fail to recognize the vehicles exemption ask they confirm this with the DVLA by phoning then, which they should do if in any doubt, but they may not know this either or be too lazy or obstinate too. Diana & Jackie
×
×
  • Create New...