Jump to content

Diana and Jackie

Members
  • Posts

    619
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. Clansman Harness info and description of Clansman R/T equipment. There should be no further confusion over what does what :-) Diana Clansman harness manual.pdf c30545.pdf The following link has information relating to not just the PRC 320 but a lot of other Clansman equipment: http://www.radionerds.com/index.php/UK~PRC-320
  2. That tool never worked for me, a welding torch on the joint got things moving, then grease nipple caps fitted on the nipples. A good quality compressed air grease gun is a must and grease gun cartridges makes it very easy Diana
  3. Don''t know where you'd get the ferrules, but I'd suggest brass flexible conduit, especially if used outside the vehicle. Salt and water will soon destroy steel, galvanised or not. Diana
  4. Hi :-) Anyone have any fuel consumption figures for a J60 powered CVRT Spartan please? I've read 8MPG for a Sultan - is this typical? Diana
  5. Recently on eBay a number of CAV horn contact sets with the rubber waterproof cover seal were on sale. There is a potential problem with the contact set earthing because of a lug on the underside of the contact set. Which can contact the horn body when the contact set is screwed into place. The fix is easy, just snip off the lug. This may only become apparent when the horn is pressed or power is switched on and should - but may not (if it doesn't work) cause the over-current relay to trip. Diana
  6. Only the Chinese make original Plasma cutters these days - so it can't be a repro can it ?
  7. Do you think it would be easier if I used my plasma cutter to cut a whopping big hole in the side of the ferret? then I could use an engine crane? It would save a lot of work!!
  8. Really good tips from both You and Richard which help in resolving a problem. The next difficult bit is the weather, since its to be done outdoors - and there's no tip available for British Weather!!
  9. Richard has made an important point about swiveling the gearbox, therefore a swivel has to be factored into the lifting arrangement. I had already though to raise the gantry off the ground further using concrete blocks. Using a wheeled gantry then the only way to shift the gearbox is to move the gantry out of the way on its wheels, which is not the correct thing to do but the only way to get the box away from the vehicle body? I belive moving a ferret is a difficult proposition without its engine? Diana
  10. A Question to those who have removed the gearbox on a Ferret Mk 2/3 (i.e. the turreted version). Have you managed to do it with an 8ft demountable gantry? I need to remove the gearbox on a Ferret and there's only 2ft clearance between the top if the turret and the bottom of an 8ft gantry, my guess with everything as short as it can be (short slings etc) it can be done, but can the gearbox be lifted out then with the same 8ft Gantry and clearing the top of the vehicle, which will of course have its turret removed by now? Diana
  11. One cannot use any form of jointing compound as the bevel box outer slides in and out of its housing ever such a small amount. Jointing compound will stop that happening. 3mm O ring cord cut to length and joined using superglue to make an oo ring works a treat, use two side by side. Plenty of lubricant when the outer is slid into the inner will help stop damage to the o rings. ......................................
  12. Cant use gasket sealer - the bevel box outer has end movement. 3mm O ring cord (2off side by side with super glue joint) works a treat Diana
  13. Since no-one has replied then maybe someone should. Do you realise the weight of a wheel station? shipping and handling will be phenomenal, that is if you can locate one. Tim Vibert in Aus may have one or two. But why not try replacing the damaged parts, which will be a lot easier and less costly. I'm sure that advice will be a lot more forthcoming about repairs than trying to locate two complete wheel stations. Diana
  14. I am not a Gent! ..... but perhaps the intelligent ones that pop up in Aldi's or Lidl's are a good option. Diana
  15. Bottom of Page Left http://www.greenflash.org.uk/gallery/BSQN3.html Diana
  16. The Cork oil seal was replaced on the nearside rear bevel box and it still leaks, I am toying with the idea of using two O rings - has anyone got any thoughts on this? or should I replace it with a new cork seal and stick to the original design? Diana
  17. Slide the rubber boot over the wire, solder the connector, apply servisol silicon grease (maplin) to the rubber boot and the wire connector and slide on the rubber boot. If the rubber boot is old it may well have gone hard, which may make it difficult. New Connectors generally fit together easily. Also useful to pack silicon grease into the female connector, this will inhibit corrosion. Do not use petroleum jelly as its "petroleum" based and will damage the rubber Diana
  18. Make sure on the Mk2 that the brakes are 100% on every wheel and that it can STOP! The wheel cylinders are aluminum and tend to seize if the brake fluid isn't changed, likewise the same issue can arise in the master cylinder through water in the brake fluid which will cause it to rust, plus of course worn seals in all the hydraulic cylinders. I believe the Mk4 has calipers, again the same check need to be done, that the brakes are effective. Diana
  19. Costly at surplus prices? - depends where one gets the surplus from.... Diana
  20. Problems - yes plenty - HF & VHF switching noise and its harmonics unless you use super duper filters. Stick to a linear conventional supply. It has also not been unknown for these things to go up in smoke and our homes are full of them (switching power supplies) Diana
×
×
  • Create New...