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TooTallMike

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Everything posted by TooTallMike

  1. I'm planning to take Adrian S's WLF. 2 adults and 3 sprogs. We usually also have a few hangers-on but they won't know their availability until nearer the time. - MG
  2. Those parts look a lot better than they did in the original photos the seller sent. Well worth the trip then! - MG
  3. TooTallMike

    Oil Seals

    Chris G is your man. pm on its way. - MG
  4. We went on Saturday and had a fantastic time. Already looking forward to next year's show and have plans to take more vehicles and stay longer. Thanks to the team for once again putting on a show that is as much for the exhibitors as it is for the visitors. Keep up the good work! - MG
  5. Good to meet you too. I hadn't realised that repair panel was wood! It's actually not as bad as you'd led me to believe but you've still got quite a project there. I'll look forward to watching progress. - MG
  6. Truck now sold to another forum member :cry: I'll leave it to him to reveal his plans. - MG
  7. Hi Russ, Yours also has those horizontal lengths of trim around the front corner(s) which aren't original. Are they hiding joins in replacement panels or are they purely decorative? - MG
  8. While looking for something else I came across this nice period shot of a Federal 94x43 belonging to Transport Moraud moving a tram body in Bordeaux: Link here: www.sudouest.fr/2013/12/19/le-premier-tramway-de-bordeaux-en-images-1405936-6004.php - MG
  9. I hired a car in Canada two weeks ago and Avis were quite happy with just the card although I did have the paper bit with me just in case. The idea of needing to go on-line to get a code sounds like an afterthought elastoplast solution when as NOS states we just need a credit card license with a chip. It could even be integrated within a national ID card system so you only require the one card (lights blue touchpaper and steps back sharpish...) - MG
  10. Hi John, I believe on the M1A1 the wood is dropped in to the openings, then a 'T' shaped steel section is welded in to hold it down. - MG
  11. Hi, Slightly off topic but just in case you decide to replace the connectors: In case you don't know already, these are known as Milspec connectors. RS sell a small variety of them. Other more specialist suppliers are out there with greater stock. I've looked in the past for various ones for Clansman systems and found some but not all of what I was after. Some of the connector types require specialist tools to crimp the pins but generally this can be done cautiously with pliers. Some of them also have clamp type sleeve termination rather than crimped ferrules. Hope this helps! - MG
  12. Hiya, I've just re-sent my reply, sorry if it didn't get through first time. - MG
  13. Very nice AFS Commer Q4 and small 4-wheel Rubery Owen type trailer on the back roads of East Grinstead this morning. He wasn't hanging about either - it's always good to see an old truck being driven properly! - MG
  14. Thanks Richard, I had forgotten that was the caveat given along with the advice, The suggestion was that they should be pulled once a year and the threads cleaned. I suppose the final decision depends on price and availability. - MG
  15. I was advised to fit the ones advertised as being for Land Rover 24V FFR. They worked very well. - MG
  16. That's what I thought too. Weren't some of the immediate post war towed artillery pieces electric-braked? - MG
  17. I was going to keep it to go with the truck, but since the people who have first and second refusal on it want it diesel, I'm sure I could be persuaded to sell it on. I've had it running long enough to know it doesn't knock but the hoses were too perforated to run it for very long! PM me if you're interested and I'm sure we can work out a deal. - MG
  18. Hi Russ, Not done it yet. Most of the bits are sitting on the back or alongside it, but customers' engine conversions have to take priority. Hoping to get onto it this winter. Drop me a PM if you want yours done! - MG
  19. The long and the short of the carb element of the Dingo thread is that the Dingo and Champ carbs have parts that are interchangeable but you cannot just fit a Champ carb. You could build one out of the two but then you don't know whether one of the unchanged parts was/is the problem. - MG
  20. Having just read your introduction thread I'm guessing the cargo truck became 825 YUP ? - MG
  21. Hi, On my SU-COE the chassis number is on the LH chassis rail, just in front of the front wheel. All of the ID plates would have been inside the cab in the centre of the dash above the engine cover. This would only show the chassis no. and not the census no. If you're lucky the military number may still be under the paint on the driver's and passenger's doors as per Morris C8's photo above. If not I'm afraid there's pretty much zero chance of finding it. Do you own both the trucks in the photo or just the Presland one? That looks like an artillery tractor which would have had a winch behind the cab, whereas the one on the right appears to be the cargo variant like mine. Regards - MG
  22. I don't know I'm afraid. At the time I already had a WLF and had no idea life would present me with so many more of them to play with, otherwise I would have invested more in parts! I'll have to dig out the old W&T magazines but I doubt they mentioned prices. I think it depended on who was asking... - MG
  23. When we were over there about 8 years ago they told us they had recently cut up a large number of M1A1 wreckers as they had been unable to sell them. I seem to recall they mentioned seventy trucks. It seems unlikely they had that many but there are a lot shown in the clips. Maybe NOS Tony will remember better what they said? As for why they were unable to sell them... Don't get me started! - MG
  24. Hi, Can you post a photo? It doesn't sound like any 6CTA I've ever seen. For a start the 6CTA has the timing gear train at the front end so where would the drive be derived from? If it is a 6CTA then there are numerous different standard flywheel housings available in SAE 1 & 2 (and very rarely 3), and with top, middle and bottom starter motor locations on the left and right. - MG
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